Yet Another OP Roller Build

Discussion in 'Motorized Cruiser Bicycles' started by Reed, Mar 13, 2011.

  1. Reed

    Reed New Member

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    I picked up an OP Roller from Wally World today for $78!

    I've been shopping around for engine kits and such and....
    I don't like the way the sprocket attaches to the wheel.
    Does anybody know of a Fixed/Free Hub that would work well on a cruiser?

    Also, is there a such thing as an engine mount that fits the OP well?
     
  2. Ursus

    Ursus New Member

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    No i have the same bike the mounts wont fit on the rear tube or the front tube. The rear needs to be grounded wider. I did find a better way though. If you bought the grubee kit it has 2 wide metal straps you can quicksteel (epoxy weld putty)the strap to the stock rear mount and it will fit with no gaps. For the front i suggest using a u bolt and a flat plate. The wheel width is pretty much standard for a beach cruiser. I can post pics later if you'd like...
     
  3. Ursus

    Ursus New Member

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    It sounds like a lot of work but it really isn't the rear mount will take 15 minutes to make to allow for set time and the front you just have to measure out a square piece of metal and drill four holes.
     
  4. Reed

    Reed New Member

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    Thanks for the suggestions Ursus!

    Is there any solution for the rear wheel that you know of?
    At the very least, I need to figure out how to keep the chain from rubbing on the tire...any way to do that without investing in a hub or a thinner tire?
     
  5. Ursus

    Ursus New Member

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    I didn't have any tire rub issues but i did switch out the rear wheel to an older schwinn coasterbrake rim i had lying around. The kit i had came with 2 sets of outer rings for the rag joint. a two piece and a three piece ring. You can use the 3 piece ring to space out the rear sprockett.
     
  6. Salty Gator

    Salty Gator New Member

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    I had no problem with the mounting of a GT5 to a Roller but did have chain clearance issues so I simply went down to a 195 size tire .....very little difference and appears to be working quite well....

    Salty.shft.
     
  7. F_Rod81

    F_Rod81 Dealer

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    In my opinion get a grubee with the standard NT carb. However,

    Instead of doing this, here is a second option. Measure your mount holes center to center, should either be 1.6in or 1.9in. Then, check out sickbikeparts.com off the homepage, find the large front engine mount and select the 1 5/8 - 1 3/4 mount. Buy it and believe me it worth the 3 day wait. Install it and there is no need for any jb weld or quick steel caca. With their mount it's a perfect fit and the rear mount just needs to be ground 1/16 on each side. I recommend their engine hardware kit as well. Do it once, do it right. Check mine out, same bike with recommended mount. Let me know if you have any questions?

    [​IMG]
    xct2
     
    #7 F_Rod81, Mar 14, 2011
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2011
  8. Ursus

    Ursus New Member

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    Unfortunately i didn't have a file or a grinder. Quiksteel cost me 3 bucks and the u bolt cost me 1.25 I got them both at home depot. I had a square piece of steel lying around. No shipping no waiting. Except the 15 minutes it took for the epoxy to set. Epoxies today are not the same as they were a few years ago.

    [​IMG]

    manufactures description

    QuikSteel is an all-purpose, full-strength adhesive that bonds like epoxy and hardens like steel hard in 15 minutes - full cure in 1 hour.
    QuikSteel seals where other products can not - under and in water, in chemicals, and even in a liquid while a leak is occurring. It is safe, fast, long lasting, chemical and heat resistant.
    QuikSteel can rebuild, reshape and repair almost any surface in your house and car, including all metal, wood, glass, ceramic, fiberglass, most plastics and masonry - even concrete. In fact, we can't think of a surface that QuikSteel won't work on. One square inch of QuikSteel can lift three cars. 500º temperature resistant Bond holds to -90º F
     

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  9. F_Rod81

    F_Rod81 Dealer

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    Thanks for the reading the label. We all know what the product is supposed to do. However, from experience, it living up to that is another question in itself. Any reputable mechanic knows that even a real weld (spot, tig, whatever it may be) is capable of breaking on occasion. If you hit a pothole, speed bump, or dip in road wrong and the motor shifts enough; your quiksteel job is going to have to be redone. On the package they say nothing about being shock or vibration resistant. Those type of products are meant to be used temporarily, not to be considered for a permanent fix for something that is constantly vibrating and flexing. Best of luck with your project, but I know that I wouldn't get caught with that caca on my bike.

    xct2
     
  10. Ursus

    Ursus New Member

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    tomato tomahto.. it's been on for six months daily ridden no problems. I'm not using it as a mounting point. I'm using it as a filler to keep the plate from flexing on the rear mount. I didn't just read the package i actually id a little research. It has a sheer strength of 720psi and a tensile strength of 6,200psi is more than enough strength for these motors. also heat resistant up to 500 degrees. it has a shore rating of D-87 and is impervious to fuel or solvents.
     
  11. F_Rod81

    F_Rod81 Dealer

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    LOL. So your saying it's caca that don't stink... jk. I don't care either way
     
  12. Reed

    Reed New Member

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    Ok. I bought the kit today and found the engine mount is probably the least of my problems haha. I drilled out the rear mount to fit and mounted the front using the through-frame bracket.

    On first inspection, my clutch doesn't seem to disengage...I don't have the wheel on yet, but when I pull the lever I can't turn the shaft by hand. I guess I'll find out tomorrow...

    Oh and the rear mount studs aren't long enough, there's no fuel line, the CID bracket isn't big enough, and that damn pin inside the throttle grip broke off...

    And the sprocket that mounts on the rear wheel is a b*tch to put on...

    Ohohoh, and the pedals don't clear my exhaust.

    Yeah, I think that's about it.:-||
     
  13. Ursus

    Ursus New Member

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    The clutch will not turn by hand. when you get the chain on it should free up when you roll the bike. Most people change out the studs for bolts or hex head screws. You should be able to get these at local hardware stores. And a lot of people drill a machine screw through the throttle mount into the handlebar.
     
  14. biknut

    biknut Active Member

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    I just finished making a MB out of a Op Roller last week. I found it to lend itself to the install very easily. I used a hockey puck and muffler clamp for the front motor mount.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Reed

    Reed New Member

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    Update:

    Everything is installed...now if I could only get it to start!
    It's getting gas, but does not even attempt to fire.
    I replaced the end of the plug wire and the plug...unfortunately there is no good way that I can think of to check for spark, though...
     
  16. Reed

    Reed New Member

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    I got it running!!! dance1

    Turns out mixing my gas in the fuel tank is a terrible idea. Oil ran right down to the bottom of the tank and stayed there no matter how much I shook it...
    Once I got the ounce or so of oil out of my carb, it started right up :D laff
     

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