Won't start if rear wheel is attached :-(

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle Trouble Shooting' started by RadicalxEdward, May 11, 2013.

  1. RadicalxEdward

    RadicalxEdward New Member

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    I got my bike to start but only when i have it on jack stands with no rear wheel attached. I haven't figured out how to get it to idle with the clutch disengaged yet either but I figured that can wait till after this issue.

    basically with the wheel off, tickle it a bit, adjust choke, give it a tiny bit of throttle and turn it over a few times, then it starts. Though I definitely have to push the peddles a bit harder than some videos I've seen until it's warmed.

    But with the wheel attached, obviously I have to be riding the bike, so I ride it (which is no where near as smooth as it used to be, but that's yet another issue to deal with down the line) and when I've got a decent speed I release the clutch lever but since I have a jackshaft on it, I still have to crank it as if I was stopped, but I figure the speed would help keep it going and not stall it. but it won't start. I don't get it. I don't have any chain left to try it without the jackshaft (my chain breaker broke and I have nothing else that will work).

    Does anyone have any advice on what I may be doing wrong that it won't start. I haven't seen a lot of info about starting with a jackshaft since the turning of the rear wheel won't start the engine.
     
  2. RadicalxEdward

    RadicalxEdward New Member

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    I should also mention, I've seen a few people say "you have to keep pedaling hard to get it to start" but I can't peddle with the clutch lever released (is that clutch engaged or disengaged?). It's too hard. I have to stand up on the bike and push down hard to turn it over but I can't just pedal normally (with the spark plug in. If i take it out i probably could lol.
     
  3. fatdaddy

    fatdaddy New Member

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    Whats the plug look like? Black and wet, White or tan. Thats the first thing I would check. It SHOULD be tan, dark tan maybe. Anything else and you'll need to adjust for it.
    Also, If you can't peddle or start it at all without a jack stand, how are ya gonna go to the store or coffee shop on it. I don't think yer gonna carry the jack stand around with ya. Sounds like you need to change the gear ratio for easier peddling.
    (When the lever is OUT the clutch is INGAGED.) It should peddle easy with the lever pulled in, (Disengaged.) So pull in the clutch lever, Peddle yer a** off, then release the lever.
    ALSO, I should ad, If it don't peddle easy with the lever pulled in it could be as simple as a clutch adjustment.
    fatdaddy.
     
    #3 fatdaddy, May 11, 2013
    Last edited: May 11, 2013
  4. RadicalxEdward

    RadicalxEdward New Member

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    Thanks! I just spent the last 20 minutes riding around in the pouring rain UNDER ENGINE POWER!... Mostly. Lol I understand now why people say to locktite everything. This thing will rattle every bolt off of it. I definitely need to spend some more time checking that stuff before I lose a crucial part on the road.

    So as for how I got it running. Because its still being broken in I think that's what's making it a little harder. But I also put a little more slack in the rear wheel chain (more on the later) and adjusted the clutch for the hundredth time. I started on the jack stand and left it running for a couple minutes. I still can't get a great idle but the throttle doesn't pull itself back without me twisting it so I just leave it twisted a tiny bit. (I've heard it's supposed to twist back on its own.) of course it stalled as soon as I tried to disengage the clutch. So I pulled the lever. Pedaled let the lever out and pushed hard. Started up with a jump :) however the rain plus the slack in the chain meant too much power would pull it off and if the back came off I could fix it easy but if that was off too long it would hop off the front sprocket and get lodged between the two crank sprockets. I also can't tell what vibrations are normal and which ones means its about to blow up but i got it into 2nd gear (it's only a 3 speed) and that runs nice and smooth. It doesn't have a cars level of acceleration between 1/4 throttle and 3/4 throttle. But it runs and that's all I care about. Hopefully I can make the chain more reliable before Monday and make the 30 mile trip to work Monday. Very exciting. I still have to figure out how to make it legal but I've still got a smile on. dance1usflg
     
  5. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

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    I like these bikes, but I would never plan a 30mile trip as a first test run.
     
  6. CTripps

    CTripps Active Member

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    Yeah, a few rides to shake the bugs out first is the better way to go. Also, before trying the trip to work when it matters try it on the weekend to be sure you have the best route worked out, find out how much gas you'll use, how you'll feel when you get there, etc. Sometimes what looks like it'll be fine from the car doesn't work out well on a bike (and Google's not always helpful for bikes yet). There are slight differences in how I get there when I have the bike vs the Buick based on that.
     
  7. RadicalxEdward

    RadicalxEdward New Member

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    I might not be able to. But I'm definitely going to try doing that. I might have to fork over the cash for a few taxis while I wrap up the bike.
     
  8. tooljunkie

    tooljunkie Member

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    i regularily ride my bike,but not to work.
    seems every time i head off to work,something breaks.
    on the weekend i can ride right past work,and home without issue.
    in my four attempts i made it there and back once.
    go figure.
    i like riding my bike,but it just doesent wanna go to work.
    lol,i just realized something.
    me and my bike think alike.

    to start mine on colder days,it takes a little choke and a sweet spot on the throttle,a little warm up time and away i go.
    i could see the jackshaft being a little more of a challenge,as in a lower gear it would be harder to spool up the engine.using a gear midway would make it easier.less lurchy when it fires up too.
     
    #8 tooljunkie, May 11, 2013
    Last edited: May 11, 2013
  9. RadicalxEdward

    RadicalxEdward New Member

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    Thanks for the tips. Where is the choke supposed to be? (up/down?) I keep seeing contradictory answers. to be honest I have to look up what it really does. I know it's got something to do with the A/F R (i think). Does it make any difference to how much smoke pours off the thing lol?
    .weld
    I stupidly tried going for a ride to visit my sun. started great and was a fun short, 10ish minute ride. But on the way back I couldn't keep it running more than about 25 feet. It was damn near impossible to get it to start and when it did, it would rev up and stall. I tried adjusting the choke, the idle screw and several times, the clutch cable. It seems to be very very tricky to get the exact right length so that if the lever is released, it engages, but pulled and disengage. I've heard the clutch cable is prone to stretching but over the course of a few minutes it shouldn't be stretching multiple times.

    Also, I moved the real wheel as far back as it would go so that there would;t be any slack in the chain and it would stop popping off. but somehow it developed slack and kept popping off. I can't figure out how to prevent it. Though i'm going to see if there's any way I can fit the original tension pulley.

    scratg
    Do you guys have any tips for keeping the chain from getting lodged between the two crank sprockets if it comes off? It's a huge pain to get out.

    I wish there was a way to know I was going to end up sinking so much time and money into this ahead of time. I saw a $150 kit and (including helmet) it's turned into a $1000 project. I could have bought a cheap motorcycle for that.

    (lol this smiley was exactly what I looked like trying to fit the rear sprocket with my 3 speed hub, thinking I Was supposed to take it apart, breaking it, fixiing it. Then spending ages drilling a bigger center holes with hundreds of drill holes done by hand.)
    .spr.
     

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