what would you do differently

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by bw1, May 3, 2011.

  1. bw1

    bw1 New Member

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    Greetings all,

    My raw motors silver slant should be here in a few hours. This is my first build and is going on a giant 19" sedona. Only been here a few weeks but have read most of the site and printed out a whole lot for reference. What I'm asking is this: with your experience what would you do differently if you could do your first build over or better? Assume you have the raw as me. What parts would you switch out, if something bit you what was it and how would you change it.

    I'm really looking to see what you did that worked great or failed miserably. As this is my first build I think it prudent of me to learn now before I start the build. Like I said I have read most of this site and have complied great info and tips. Basically I'm trying to learn from you as most of you have built and discovered along the way. Why re-invent the wheel. Not looking for directions on how to mount and things like that as I have found a wealth of information here.

    I am in need of a repair stand and once I have one (hopefully soon) I am thinking about getting my bike in order first. The sedona is close to 10 years old and has about 30 miles on it. Im going to repack bearings, clean up everything, check and adjust cables etc before even thinking about the build.

    So if you have something that would help a newbie with his first build well great please post and if not hey at least you took the time to read this so thanks for that.

    have a great day all

    cya

    brad
     
  2. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

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    44 back sprockets are just too big and heavy for me- the motor revs and revs and the bike goes nowhere-

    I like a 36 I bought for the first build- faster cruise, keeps noise and vibrations down- uses less chain too and aids frame clearance

    The 41 I got with the second kit is a little better than the 44 and really more acceptable right from the box- it's lighter in weight, and dished and uses a few less links.

    If you geta 44- maybe you can get a smaller sprock before building and having to switch
     
  3. Mike B

    Mike B New Member

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    I would have put in on a steel 75 degree frame so I wouldn't have had to screw around with custom motor mounts.

    But cruisers just look better - laff
     
  4. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    I'd suggest jetting it day one, you can get them at sickbikeparts.com .

    As well, replace the head bolts, again, sickbikeparts.com .

    If/when you can afford it - get an SBP expansion chamber ( sickbikeparts.com ).

    Full gallon gas tank - you won't regret it!

    For your exhaust gasket, get the metal lined ones, and get a couple extras. I just have a roll of cut-your-own gasket material, and it works, but the high quality ones last a lot longer.

    Always preferred, after break in run some synthetic 2cycle oil.

    I don't have a link, but on eBay there's a guy selling an add in magneto to bring support to 12v electrical, instead of the 6v.

    It definitely doesn't hurt to replace your sparkplug - I run BR7HS (NGK) as recommended, but I'm going to step it up to a BR6HS (NGK) in a couple days when the auto shop gets them in. I would like to try the BR6HIX (NGK), but I can't find it locally.

    Biggest thing is this - don't do the ragjoint method of sprocket mounting to the spokes, instead get an HD Axle Kit, a clamshell adapter, or disc brake rotor mount.
     
  5. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

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    I'm glad I started with a cruiser frame-

    as a former road racer, I immediately wanted something I thought I could pedal the easiest- so my second project was on a Schwinn Traveler road frame I bought for $5

    I really found the frame clearances too tight for the motor chain- the short top tube put the tank in the way of peddling, and the short wheelbase gave it a suirrly feel- so I ended putting that kit on another cruiser, but with 700C wheels for the roll I want.

    the first frame is still the best- a freewheel and derailleur on the cruiser eliminate a need for a motor chain tensioner- and the hub was grooved and the diameter was perfect for the motor sprocket hole- cantilever brakes are nice, but I like caliper brakes- they are sorta mismatched front and rear on a cruiser- reach-wise from frame to wheel rim-

    but longer brakes for the rear are now out there
     

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  6. fall_down_stand_up

    fall_down_stand_up New Member

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    On my first build I would have bought a 12 gauge rim right off the bat....I learned my lesson on that one with all the broken spokes and bent rims....
    Second I would have never ran my HT engines over half throttle and not reved them out to top speed all the time....If you run your bike around 20 to 22 mph the engine will last 10 times longer....Someone once said,,,,,,if anyone tells you to just run these little engines WOT all the time and have fun,He owns stock in the company becouse you will end up having to buy a replacement engine real soon....

    John
     
  7. Mike B

    Mike B New Member

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    Yeah, I like 20, 20 is good.

    I guess I did good with the the steel wheel with the 12g steel spokes too, they haven't let me down either.

    I do like the cruiser, but I didn't like all the motor mount stuff and I sure didn't like snapping off that engine bolt.

    My next project is a laid back 3 speed cruiser with a Robin Subaru friction drive on the back.
     
  8. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Well-Known Member

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    f I ever build one, this is what I'd use:

    mountain bike with 24-speeds;
    shift kit;
    SBP expansion pipe;
     
  9. bairdco

    bairdco a guy who makes cool bikes

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    i disagree with almost everything said so far, except for upgrading the hardware.

    the basics i do with my bikes is:

    replace all the hardware with grade 8 allen head socket cap screws

    match port the intake manifold and the exhaust (use a dremel or a drill with a grinding bit to enlarge the hole and shape them to match the engine.)

    change the plug wire to a 7mm copper core wire and change the plug to an NGK B6HS.

    run Opti-2 oil at 100:1 mix right from the start.

    ride it hard right out of the gate.

    i've never had to re-jet a carb, i don't baby my engines during break-in (and i don't own stock in the company, and all my bikes are still on the road with thousands of hard miles on them.)

    heavy duty wheels, sprocket adapters and expansion chambers are all good, but those are upgrades you can do over time. it all depends on how much money you want to put into it. i run 11 or 12 guage wheels and smaller sprockets on my bikes, and i think it's a great idea, but it isn't totally necessary. longevity depends on the quality of the parts you use and how well you maintain them.
     
  10. cuberasnapper

    cuberasnapper New Member

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    i feel like the grubee hd rear hub is the best thing to do(or terry at blow by you has nice wheels) thats all i realy did oh and change some bolts other than that they seem to be alright been riding it for months now no problems and i agree with the 20 mph theory just ride smooth and less vibration
     
  11. bw1

    bw1 New Member

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    Thanks for all the input. The engine is here and boy is it tiny. I was worried about fitting but not anymore.

    brad
     
  12. fall_down_stand_up

    fall_down_stand_up New Member

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    bm1,contrary to what anyone tells you about running these engines WOT all the time,Dont do it!!!!If you want your little china girl to last for a long time and give you lots of fun,keep the RPMs down and dont run it over 20 to 22 mph....Think of it this way,if you were to take a car and hammer down on the throttle full tilt and just hold it there,how long do you think it would last before it started to over heat and blow up or lose compression?Not very long.....Changing the head bolts or porting the exaust is not going to change the internal components of these engines....Does changine the head bolts make the needle bearings any stronger?No....People can try to brag and blow smoke about all the thousands of miles that have gotten out of these little engines running them WOT all the time,but the truth is its just smoke....I have been running these engines for years and its just common sence(for any kind of engine for that matter)that if you over rev the engine it wont last long....
    End of story
    John
     
  13. bairdco

    bairdco a guy who makes cool bikes

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    i built a honda civic with a non-cvcc japanese head and ran it full tilt for years. my 96 impala ss with the v8 LT1 i'd run it to vegas at 160mph. my ford v-10 triton work truck's governer cut out at 105. i used to redline that thing up mountain roads in second gear.

    my china bikes? i've run them from costa mesa to seal beach up PCH at full throttle, on a brand new engine, which is about 35 miles one way, and stoplights miles apart.

    i ran a 2 year old, modified motor with about 10,000 miles on it for 20 minutes straight to come in 5th overall at the last Death Race in tucson, over-revving it, over-clutching it, under-braking it, and basically punishing the f*** out of it.

    everyone of these vehicles are still on the road.
     
  14. culvercityclassic

    culvercityclassic Well-Known Member

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    I run my bikes like Baird.... Go till ya blow...

    I have a stroked 383 in a car that I shift at 6500 rpm all the time...it's still on the road...

    These little motors run well for what we pay...and I am happy just putt n or wide open.
     
  15. lomitalifer

    lomitalifer New Member

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    Ide go with BAIRDCO on this fellow newbie drive it like its stolen!!For the money we paid for these things???**** im not made outa money anymore like most people but if it breaks buy a new one.And before all the frustration starts remember they dont have the best quality control over there so outa the box its a toss of the dice weather you got a good one or a bad.If you start changing every thing around and addind to it your going to spend more time working on it than riding it....YEAH WERE HAVING SOME FUN NOW!!..Enjoy it for awhile first then let the games begin..:-||
     
  16. Mike B

    Mike B New Member

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    Ya know, that makes sense.

    Beat the crap out 'em until you get one that doesn't blow...
     
  17. ToxicAz520

    ToxicAz520 New Member

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    bardico has a good point i was always taught break it in how u gonna ride it but that is me. no ragjoint as mentioned and better wheels and brakes is a must.
     
  18. Pinoyxprss

    Pinoyxprss New Member

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    If you're like me, I run this thing 22-24 and that's pretty much the sweet spot on mine without over-revving the thing, when I hit 25-27, the vibration on the handle bars are unbearable, it's like playing one of those arcade games where you hold on to two bars and it vibrates like crazy leaving your hands numb, well when I get to that point, I back it up a little bit and thats where I coast. I say go with your instinct, If you can hold on to the bars long while it's vibrating like crazy then drive your heart out.

    Have Fun
    JD
     
  19. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    I love the saying "ride it like you stole it", which is really just how I ride daily - minus the paranoia.

    Whenever I get a new motor, I'm going to just hill climb some overpasses out here that don't have much traffic. Throttle at peak rpm uphill and coast down, lather rinse repeat for 20 mins, 20 mins off. It'll be a while until I could see results, but I feel it'll hold water in the long run.
     
  20. moonshiner

    moonshiner New Member

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    grind it till it fits..bf.
     

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