What NOT To Motorize

wheelbender6

Well-Known Member
Forgive me if there is already a thread on this. Gotta bike you motorized that you would never recommend for an engine?
-I built this banana seat bike from an old cruiser, thinking I may install an engine after a while. Not any more.
-The bike is pretty difficult to control at low speeds (for me) with the ape hanger bars. They don't seem well suited for pedal starts using a hand clutch.
-The small, 20 inch front wheel makes it steer quicker, making it less stable at high speeds.
-I do like the banana seat. It's nice to sit back and stretch my legs.
20200127_174907.jpg
 
i was thinking about putting a motor on this bike what makes it a bad bike to use
They are junk, and could fold up like a house of cards at 25 mph.

Having said that, I will say I have built 2 Cranboobs.....don't do it, unless you weigh 120lbs, and go over the bike very carefully before each ride.
 
petrowesternflyer1.jpg
True. My "rat trap" Springer fork leaves a lot to be desired. Rat trap forks may work better in stock trim. Mine has been modded because the painted part of the original flightliner fork was damaged beyond repair.
I have used a cantilever style springer fork on a motorized bike (attached) with good results. The cantilever springer increases the rake a little, providing more stable steering at high speed
 
Last edited:
They are junk, and could fold up like a house of cards at 25 mph.

Having said that, I will say I have built 2 Cranboobs.....don't do it, unless you weigh 120lbs, and go over the bike very carefully before each ride.
i have one on a cranbrook now and no problems longest trip so far was 7 miles
 
What NOT To Motorize

Ride your "bike" around no less then 10 miles. If the very idea is painful your bike is junk do not motorize it.
Go down a steep hill. It should not vibrate at speed and be able to stop at bottom. A 10 mile ride should be just far enough to expose any bike geometry problems.
 
Back
Top