Tried bike for first time this afternoon: DIDNT WORK

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by ncfootballchamp, Nov 7, 2010.

  1. ncfootballchamp

    ncfootballchamp New Member

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    Alright so I finished up putting my SkyHawk 66/80cc kit together today and I tested it out this afternoon and couldn't get it to start.

    I put the gas/oil mixture (16:1) in about a minute before trying to start it, if it makes a difference.

    I pedaled up to about 10 mph and then released the clutch. The bike slowed down considerably, so the piston was definitely pumping.

    The only thing I can think of is the spark plug isn't firing, but i correctly connected the wires from the engine to the little black box thing that connects to the spark plug.

    Do you have any suggestions as to what could be going wrong?

    I appreciate the help

    :-||
     
  2. momentummotorgroup

    momentummotorgroup New Member

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    wiring, if you followed the craptacular directions, might be wrong. it goes black black black, blue blue and whatever off color your kill switch is.. the white wire is a power output to run lights off of.. Other than that, it might be a bad seal, as I've had plenty of these engines not have solid seals, thus negating compression.. my last engine had a tear in the seal at the bottom of the jug, as well as the fact that the head wasn't bolted down 100%..
     
  3. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

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    16:1 is too much oil. Drain it out and remix to 24:1 for a couple tanks, 32:1 after that.

    If your kill switch is connected, disconnect it until after you've got running sorted out.

    Try starting with the choke closed (up) or open (down) or somewhere in between.
     
  4. ncfootballchamp

    ncfootballchamp New Member

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    alright thanks for the replies!

    1. How do I know if the engine seal is broken?
    2. Where's the choke?
     
  5. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

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    I wouldn't remix- 16 to 1 is recommended. Choke is at the back of the carb- check electrical connections for shorting out as well- electrical tape prevents. Make sure petcock valve is open for gas. May help to find a small rise to be descending. check that plug wire is on tight.
     
  6. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

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    16:1 is if you're use SAE30 motor oil. They don't use proper 2-cycle oil in east Asia. The choke lever is on the right side of the carb by the air cleaner on the NT carb, it's a pull on the top of the CNS (sometimes with a cable operated remote lever).
     
  7. ncfootballchamp

    ncfootballchamp New Member

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    Ok thanks. I've got the CNS carb then. I just got synthetic mobil 1 oil. Also I forgot, the ratio is closer to 20:1.

    Could the type of oil have anything to do with this?
     
  8. momentummotorgroup

    momentummotorgroup New Member

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    Oil ratios. Try Opti-2. It's available at all ACE hardware stores, is an amazing creation. One pack to one gallon. I have over a dozen bikes running on the stuff and absolutely no problems with it. No more measuring, no more gunked up engine.
     
  9. yodar

    yodar New Member

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    DONT RULE OUT ABSENCE OF SPARK FROM PLUG CONNECTOR BREAKAGE

    My Spark plug connector was broken right out'a the carton. The replacement broke afte a few days' use. These Bakelite spark plug connectors are too brittle and are universally P.O.S. (Plural) and before build is complete they should be replaced with aftermarket connector and boot (NAPA less than $3)

    yodar
     
  10. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

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    Absolutely don't rule out no spark. But when I was a "total n00b," I also started with 16:1, and mine just barely ran. My old snowblower wouldn't run on it at all. As soon as I switched to 24:1, the snowblower fired right up, and the bike ran like gangbusters.

    Start with the simplest thing first.
     
  11. Hammond Egger

    Hammond Egger New Member

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    I doubt that your oil/gas ratio has anything to do with it. I have the same engine and am breaking it in at 16:1. I only have about 35 miles on it but it starts right up; however if you don't have the choke on when it's cold you can pedal it for 100 miles and it won't start.
     
  12. killercanuck

    killercanuck New Member

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    It's been said so many times, but I'll say it again. 16:1 is for 30w oil. Any decent 2-stroke oil mixed at that ratio is starving the mix of fuel and/or fouling the plug. What does your plug tell you? Go from there.

    What colour of oily black tar is your plug Hammond?
     
  13. Hammond Egger

    Hammond Egger New Member

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    I checked my plug today and it's light brown, like a piece of lightly toasted bread and not oily. However; I do agree that 16:1 is too much oil but I doubt if it is causing the problem in this case. I'm going to start breaking another engine in tomorrow and will start with a 30:1 ratio. Echo Power BlendX synthetic.
     
  14. ncfootballchamp

    ncfootballchamp New Member

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    Ok im pretty sure I got the wrong type of oil. Mine says 5w and is for cars, which i think are 4 stroke engines (basic Mobil 1 oil)

    is this bad?
     
  15. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

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    The oil you have is generally used as a lubricating crankcase oil in four strokes, yes. If it's 5W-30 (or 5W-20 even), it's going to be very thin for this purpose.

    You want proper two cycle oil, like this:

    Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

    You should be able to find this at any hardware store, and most big box stores. Make sure you get non-marine oil. It's probably going to come in a small bottle like the one pictured there, sometimes in a quart, often in a bottle that has a little measuring bulb at the top (I like these bottles a lot).

    Drain out the fuel you've already got in the tank, and pour it in a car. (It won't hurt anything.) Make sure you also drain the carb bowl. Mix your two stroke oil with gasoline such that your mix is 24 parts gasoline to one part oil. Easy way to do this: if you get a 4oz container of oil, mix it with 0.75 gallons gasoline. Shake well, refuel, cross your fingers.
     
  16. killercanuck

    killercanuck New Member

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    oops, yea you want 2-stroke specific oil. Whether its for chainsaws or snowmobiles doesn't matter. But car oil at that ratio should work(it's what they use in china for 16:1). What does you plug look like nc? Is it wet like its getting fuel, but just not sparking?

    That's cool Hammond, but I've read alot that breaking in with mineral based oil is better. Then switch to synthetic after, because synthetic doesn't soak into metal as well as mineral.

    just my $0.02

    D'oh, Nougat posted while I was typing. still check your plug if its wet ^_^
     
    #16 killercanuck, Nov 8, 2010
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2010
  17. ncfootballchamp

    ncfootballchamp New Member

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    Thank you so much Nougat! that was very helpful

    One Question. How do I drain the Carb Bowl?
     
  18. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

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    There's a screw at the bottom of the carb float bowl. Unscrew it, fuel will come out. Screw it back in snug. You may have some trouble getting that screw not to leak, even though there's a little washer on it. Replace it with a hex head bolt or Allen bolt, so you can get a little more torque on it (the Philips head screw is hard to tighten), and/or use a little piece of gasket material to make an additional washer. I did the latter, worked great. I was able to get a nice clean hole by hitting a little square of it with a punch on the concrete garage floor.
     
  19. ncfootballchamp

    ncfootballchamp New Member

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    Alright and It is absolutely necessary to drain the carb bowl?
     
  20. killercanuck

    killercanuck New Member

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    you want your crappy fuel out of the bowl then replenish with your new fuel, for sure.
     

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