Disk brakes are awesome.
Found this; http://www.google.com/cse?cx=partne...nlite Deluxe Springer Replica Fork&gsc.page=1
Found this; http://www.google.com/cse?cx=partne...nlite Deluxe Springer Replica Fork&gsc.page=1
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Hey ejbabin I don't have any experience with these forks but I do remember Moisstink had a problem with his. Here is the thread http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=51375
Hope that helps..
Hope that helps..
Warning: All springer forks equipe'd with brakes are prone to bunny hoping under heavy braking . Especially during wet or slick conditions.
I have been building bikes ( the big ones ) for years . I run lots of springers .
It's a known issue.....
Still the best looking front end out there.
I have been building bikes ( the big ones ) for years . I run lots of springers .
It's a known issue.....
Still the best looking front end out there.
Just don't grab a hand full of front brake in an emergency , or you will face plant.
You could run a single lever brake and set the bious to the rear.
You could run a single lever brake and set the bious to the rear.
I have used this fork on many builds. Like said before needs a little work to get the slop out. My version to help with handling. Works really good on my Dailey rider.
Attachments
Now that is one heavy duty springer! Very nice. I used a basic caliper brake on my sunlite springer and have no issue with it hopping around during braking. Not sure about the disk brake with these, I am sure it would be a sweet set up..
Got to agree springers are beautiful, yet at times dangerous. Springs are ok for compression control, but not for rebound....front end hop results. Advice given about bias braking is sound. Culver citys slick shock fabrication also works. I've fabricated an air shock in a configuration similar to his and it eliminated the problem I was having with dual springs. Sportscar Pat uses a friction shock on his wide glide, springer monarch style dual spring forks that is utilized on his Bonneville bikes. Bottom line -discs work good on the springer but work great with some relitively minor alterations. Rick C.
Hi Guys,
Been meaning to weigh in on this thread. I have messed with the Monark style forks quite a bit and find the original version that mounts the wheel to the (what I call) swing arms suffers from braking forces upsetting the forks. The Sunlite version and my "wide glide" version attach the hub to the front fork blade and the problems go away. I do add, among other upgrades, a friction shock to our Bonneville race bike forks as the SCTA rules require dampening to any suspension system. I call it my model 1918 shock absorber....
Been meaning to weigh in on this thread. I have messed with the Monark style forks quite a bit and find the original version that mounts the wheel to the (what I call) swing arms suffers from braking forces upsetting the forks. The Sunlite version and my "wide glide" version attach the hub to the front fork blade and the problems go away. I do add, among other upgrades, a friction shock to our Bonneville race bike forks as the SCTA rules require dampening to any suspension system. I call it my model 1918 shock absorber....
On any springer fork proper adjustment is critical for proper action. I have received Sunlite forks with the swing arms too tight for the fork to function and too loose so they function but with slop. There are shoulder bolts in the arms, then jam nuts. Loosen the jam nuts, tighten the shoulder bolt correctly, retorque the jam nuts. A shoulder bolt should bottom the shoulder, but sometimes this is too tight. If the fork action locks up, then back off the shoulder bolt that is causing the bind by half turn.
I also find that all the Sunlite forks come with a rubber bumper and it is placed above the spring and below the spring perch with the plastic spring centering bushing. Proper location of the rubber is above the spring perch. It is a rebound bumper that keeps the forks from thunking on rebound.