Stupid clutch slips no matter what I do; flower bolt adjustment Q's.. aarg!

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by nidyanazo, Aug 1, 2010.

  1. nidyanazo

    nidyanazo New Member

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    So I built up another cruiser today, it runs great except the clutch slips, making is a major pain to start.

    [​IMG]

    After an extended ride I thought it's time to fix the problem (since it only manifests when you're starting the engine; once it's on, the clutch barely slips.)

    So I remove the clutch cable to be sure the arm isn't being pulled at all and I can push the bike with the clutch slipping and the motor not turning over. That's not right.

    Now I take off the clutch cover and fiddle with the clover bolt, first tightening then loosening.
    Neither seems to make any difference.

    To be clear, there is no clutch cable on right now. The engine should be fixed to the wheel, turning the engine over as I push the bike forwards.

    Any Ideas? Anything left to do? I'll just swap in another clutch if all else fails. Maybe I just got a lemon. Damnit.
    The motor is strong though! When I got back from an extended ride at full speed (est. 34-36mph)
    The rear hub was literally smoking! The grease was so hot. Sheesh I might need an upgraded one now lol.
     
  2. Goat Herder

    Goat Herder Gutter Rider

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    Perhaps some how the factory got a bunch of grease on the clutch pads? By clover bolt you must be referring to the flower nut?
     
  3. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    That last post ought to get you close.
     
  4. flybytaco

    flybytaco Metal Molding Madman

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    push in the clutch actuator till its just past level with the case facing back aroun like 5:00 looking at it from rear thats gonna push out the center rod that the flower nut is attached to tigten flower nut till the arm stays at 5:00 by itself and that should give the spring enough tention..
     
  5. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    The flower nut really only adjusts the range of engagement, not spring tension like the collar will do. It will help with a slipping clutch in some cases, but it's better to adjust spring tension and make sure the plates are clean, oil fee, and not glazed from slipping.
     
  6. moronic_kaos

    moronic_kaos New Member

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    Ditto on the flower nut.

    Quick question though. If you remove the small cover the clutch arm goes into, will the clutch still slip? Sometimes those pins come too long (See the animated GIF linked to above. Talking about that pin that goes through the center of the gear) and even when fully letting off the clutch (or even the cable being disconnected), the pin still pushes on the clutch arm (thing the cable goes into), causing it to be somewhat in neutral. I've had to file down (or cut a longer one) for almost every clutch I've done work on.
    • Remove the cover (3 screws) & try pushing the bike again
    • If it's better in gear, hold the cover back into it's place
    • You should notice that the cover (if the bike is now set in gear better) can't quite be set in place without either screwing it down or pushing it extremely hard to the motor. It'l be spaced like a millimeter or so away and teeter-totter on the center pin. Not good.
    • As far away as the cover is from the motor is how much the pin (running through the center of the gear) needs to be filed down/shortened.

    Shave off a little bit at a time and keep trying it, don't just take a guess and cut it cuz if you shorten it too much you won't be able to get into neutral. Better yet go down to the hardware store and buy a 3-foot long rod of the same diameter (I use 5/8", which is close enough to the metric diameter to function properly) for like $3 or $4 and cut it a little long with a hacksaw or dremel, and get it perfect through trial & error with a file/grinder/whatever.

    WARNING: A few thousandths of an inch makes a difference. So take your time.

    Good luck!

    .
     
    #6 moronic_kaos, Aug 1, 2010
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2010
  7. Technocyclist

    Technocyclist Motorized Bicycle Senior Technologist

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    it might not be your clutch that has a problem. a few years ago, i noticed the starting on my engine becomes more difficult, then clutch starts to slip. So I opened up the engine and carbon has deposited on the piston rings. Try to decarbonize your cylinder. you can find some info on the web about this. Usually the recommended decarbonizing for 2 stroke engines is every 100 hrs of usage. another thing you might wanna try is getting a fish scale or any hanging weighing scale and try to measure at what weight the engine starts to turnover. This also depends on your sprocket configuration and pedals length so it's not always the same for all MB's. I measured mine at around 20kg or less. if greater than that, the clutch starts to slip, so it's also like a protection to prevent damage to your pedals or other parts. After decarbonizing, clutch does not slip anymore, and engine runs better.

    Another thing is the oil seal, if the oil seal is leaking, as you will notice inside the clutch gears is very oily, and the engine sometimes behaves like it cannot idle, or is at high RPM. Just replace the oil seal, and clean the clutch pads, and should be ok.
     
  8. scotto-

    scotto- Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder

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    This post is over 2 years old.....and I have never met a clutch that was stupid, honestly..bf.
     
  9. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    I forgot to mention the OP should take some of the grease out of the stupid clutch and put it in the wheel hub bearings...and, since he has since been banned, I guess we will never know if he got it working.

    My guess is no.
     

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