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Discussion in 'Stretch Cruiser & Chopper Motorized Bicycles' started by i-paint, May 22, 2010.
Checked with auto speedometer and gps mounted on bike. I'm done with the speed part.
61.6 mph are you serious ,
That is awesome.
That build looks perfect, You should build a few for sale.
Ipaint, you've really outdone yourself another unbelievable build, I like the left side engine case cover 49cc loncin ROTF!!!
Is that the 3-speed full automatic motor, are you adding lights or accessories to this build?
Post a video I know that 4-stroke sounds sweet!
It is a single speed automatic clutch. No shifting on this one. Geared on the high side, but still has plenty of torque. Probably no lights.
I-paint: that stretch is really awesome. 61 is crazy. Your engine is intriguing to me as I am currently at work trying to pick an engine for my bike, where do you buy it? Who makes it?
Thanks in advance for your help
Nice Bike! Can we get a pict of the output on the J shaft? Would love to see what you did there. That is one clean ride I like it! Good job!
Totally sweet. I'm jealous.
Here's a pic of what I have in mind for my Stretch Cruiser Builds, going for the Fat Boy / Road King / Heritage Softtail, and or Full Dresser Look!
That is of course using the Honda 50cc 4-stroke Pit/Dirt Bike engine with the following:
kick start, electric start, lighting package horn etc etc...
Guy's a if you are Looking for a motor similar to ipaint's there's a few online company's you can try
Jhammer in Cananda there's Gio Bikes,
Dirt Bikes, ATVs, Electric Scooters, Dune Buggies, Parts for Sale | Cheap Mini ATVs, 4x4 ATV Vehicles, ATV and Dirt Bike Parts Canada | GIO.
Here in the states there's Tboltusa in Pennsylvania
TBolt USA: Pit Bikes, Engines, Parts, Pitster Pro, SSR, Honda CRF50,
and High RPM Racer in Carbondale, Illinois their website is:
HighRpmRacer's Official Website - 110cc Dirt Bike - Loncin Engine Parts - Chinese ATV Parts and Scooter Parts at competitive prices. just check these sites for 50cc 4-stroke ATV or Pit/Dirtbike motors.
Here's a few things to consider when purchasing your motor!
Most of these companies sell the wiring harness separately as well as the controls ie your handlebar switches ( make sure you tell them your handlebar diameter when ordering your switches ),for electric start, turn signals, and headlight high low beam, the carburetor and the exhaust is most likely sold separately as well.
As far as the skid plate Ipaint might possibly be able to post a Link for those interested in finding one.
I would really like to see some of our Forum sponsor's selling these as motor kit's for Stretch Cruiser Builds, that would be awesome!
Ok here's the pic's of what I have in mind, using a Harley inspired build Fat Bob gas Tank, and saddle bags, oh yeah and detachable wind screen, shoot I even thought about fabricating a fiberglass Full Dresser style front end, then add a AM/FM Cd player sounds crazy I know.
I will sell this one $1,900.00 (or best offer) plus shipping. Would have to ship in pieces.
Here is a pic. I had the engine plate slotted before I welded it to the bike.
Ok so how did you tie in the peddle cranks ,rear wheel and the j shaft together? was looking at your first pict. I saved that pict and blew it up I see it now the free wheel is on the j shaft. Sweet.
GH' Yes there is a freewheel on each end of the jackshaft. The one to the crank keeps the pedals from turning. The one on the engine side keeps the engine from turning when you pedal.
WOW that is the nicest bike i have seen yet...can we get some more pics?
i-paint, I've read thru this and your other thread Looking for more information regarding the Dual-Disc front Hub machined to accept sealed ceramic bearings, and your wheels BTW really like the fact that you've used sealed ceramic .
Could you share with us where you bought the Wheels, Dual Disc Front Forks, and what brand disc Calipers you used front & rear on this build ???
CH, I bought the dual disc hub from Home - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.. It had cone type bearings with cups built in the hub. A friend of mine at a machine shop cut the cups out to accept the sealed ceramic bearings. You can buy loose ceramic balls to use with the cone style. I find the sealed bearings are just easier. I stole the axle and bearings from another hub I had. The left fork had a mount for a disc brake caliper. I duplicated it (the mount) on the right fork and welded it in place. You can't buy a right fork with a disc brake mount. I bought a set of calipers, right and left, from chopperrus. I later replaced the left one with an Avid BB7 mechanical caliper. Awesome for a mechanical disc brake. I've used hydraulic disc calipers "Juicy 3" and this BB7 is comparable. Better if you figure it is much less trouble. The rear is the same BB7 using an axle mount. I had to make a "lock" to hold the drop out together as the brake mount slides in the dropout and tried to turn under pressure from stopping. The hub is a single speed with disc mount. It accepts a screw on freewheel for the sprocket. The freewheel is locked up by the way. I have another one on the jackshaft that lets the rear wheel "coast" but the chain turns also.
i-paint, Got few more questions forgot to ask you in previous post.
Did you purchase/order your Loncin 4-stroke engine from High RPM Racer? HighRpmRacer's Official Website - 110cc Dirt Bike - Loncin Engine Parts - Chinese ATV Parts and Scooter Parts at competitive prices. If not them who?
Did your engine come complete with carburetor, wiring harness etc...
What company did you purchase your Jackshaft from BMI Karts & Supplies or who ?
Link: Parts BMI Karts and Supplies - Home
What company did you purchase your ( Right side and Left side hand brake switch assembly from) ?
Retro Bikes or another company ?
Link: Retrobikes.com Product Page
Forum Member Civlized used this type of switch assembly, I thought you used this type also i-paint.
For those that don't know what is a switch assembly, it's the switches on Handlebar for the following:
Handlebar Right Side:
* Electric Starter Switch
* Lights/Parking Lights/Off - Headlight Switch
* Pin Activated in Brake Lever. Pull The Lever Brake Lights Come On!
* Emergency Kill Switch
* Right Hand Brake Lever (included)
* Mirror Mount
* Throttle Grove and hook-up
Handlebar Left Side:
* Horn Switch
* Turn Signal Left/Right Switch
* Pin Activated in Brake Lever. Pull The Lever Brake Lights On!
* Left Hand Clutch/Brake Lever (included)
* Choke Lever and Bracket
* Mirror Mount
* Hi/Lo Beam Switch
Just connect the Switch Assembly plugs to the Honda 4-Stroke 50cc Wiring Harness, and continue your other connections Head Light, Tail Light, Turn Signals, Horn, Electric Starter, and Battery etc etc it's so easy to do.
Thank you for sharing your build information i-paint !
I'm sure others will be posting more questions to your thread regarding this build,
as others in the Forum have said you've definitely raised the bar with this inspiring build !
Peace Crazy Horse
Wow! I am doing basically the same setup using a Lifan 110 CVT and a Micargi Mustang. As always, your work is impeccable; and your contributions to this forum (and us wannabes) inspiring!
What is your left side jackshaft sprocket tooth count/right side sprocket tooth count. What did you use as freewheels on the jackshaft? And finally, what welder are you using?
Engine 15t, left side , 24t, right side 17t, wheel 24t. You can get an adapter for a freewheel to a 5/8" shaft from Sick Bike Parts or Stanton. You can leave the freewheel to the engine off but the clutch will turn when you pedal. My welder is a mig.
Wow that bike really came together well didn't it. It's excellent, so how smooth is the motor? Does it ride well at 60?