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Discussion in 'Motorized Rat Rods' started by graydog8josh, Jan 7, 2015.
got a new bike, its so old, and the wheelbase is so short.
I have seen vintage stingrays motorized but your frame is really tight.
There are plenty of new parts available for banana seat bikes on the lowrider sites.
Is there a brand on the head badge?
and another new bike
For girls only!
Damm nice bike.
almost finished with my wheelie bike rustcycle
I noticed the fork opposite the way they made it to be. Is that just at the moment or intended to be. The stress may not be best that way and the clearance wheel tire to frame less.
Putting the neck the opposite is fine (seen in earlier pic) as I've done that to get handle bars further back. Maybe it is just that you switched it back?
When you can get video of it running, please do!
the fork is frozen up and i checked and it isnt giving me any more clearance turning it the other way. It looks tacky but i havent gotten to heating it and freeing it up so i can turn it around
You may already know this. If it is a wedge type neck on the fork, then loosen bolt (if that is frozen then liquid wrench or penetrating fluid), then tap lightly with hammer the recessed bold head and that separates the wedge and it comes apart an also allows to adjust direction.
you know, my bike came stock with a coaster brake rear wheel and i was hoping to just modernize and stick with the coaster brake. I ordered a new one from niagara cycle and it came in.
I took it apart in my lap to get the brake arm off and the sprocket on. the sprocket would not sit on the hub where the cap sets there was not enough of a lip for teh sprocket to sit on. the coaster brake arm needed to be bent to fit around the outside of teh sprocket. when i went to put everything back together minus the cap that holds in the grease and minus the brake arm i got the bearings set in crooked and or the brake mechanism turned around. the cones squeezed together and pinched on the brake arm side and shattered that bearing race. I took it to the shop and tried to weld the bearing race back together so i could ride it home, and while i was able to get home i dont think ill be motorizing that wheel in that condition.
So i ordered another one quickly and got 2 day shipping(50 bucks big mistake) i ordered it tuesday it processed processed... its now saturday. waste of money!!!
Im not entirely convinced i can pull of a coaster brake wheel on this bike as well as a freewheel. I wanted brakes as there are none on this bike without the coaster brake. If this next wheel comes apart or gives me trouble im just going to order the alex freewheel 16t wheel. this is ridiculous.
Is there a write up on how to tame a coasterbrake wheel for motorizing? A thorough comprehensive one with pictures, brand names etc. I seem to remember the buzzword "hi stop" but other than that i thought id just look at it and it would be obvious what i needed to do. Help?
Until proven otherwise im going to say that freewheels are much easier to motorize and in the future i will steer away from these coaster brake hubs if someone asks me to motorize their bike or if i see one ill just add freewheeling wheel into the price automatically.
got my wheel laced up and now ive got a no fire issue. changed my coil going to try to fire tommorrow
Bad gas was the issue. She runs now. mig welded on a chain tensioner bracket. Running #41 chain all day no problems.
Now im waiting on a puch hi hi head and a honda 40mm piston kit to see if i can up the performance any
UPDATE! I wanna see a video of this thing on full tilt boogie!