Please Help. no spark

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by pechroc1, Sep 4, 2010.

  1. pechroc1

    pechroc1 New Member

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    its seems that my clutch does not grab hard enough to turn the magnet to give a charge. this is a brand new kit. i have tried to tighten the flower nut on the clutch plate but still have the same result. ... --->i have the bike off the ground to test it. i pedal fast then pop the clutch in.... it seems to grab but not hard enough to turn the outer gear... am i missing something. this is my first kit and im extremely perplexed... any help will be appreciated. thanks in advance :-||:-||
     
  2. killercanuck

    killercanuck New Member

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    Try loosening your clutch cable, it sounds like it's just too tight.

    gl.

    Happy clutch day everyone! :D
     
  3. pechroc1

    pechroc1 New Member

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    nah man... i totally loosened the cable. i tighten the flower nut on the clutch plate as tight as it could be(with the clutch disengaged) and the only way i can get the flywheel to turn is to manually turn the magnet or the small gear on the side of the flywheel... wtf? im at a loss...?
     
    #3 pechroc1, Sep 4, 2010
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2010
  4. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    Usually one needs to be moving around 5 to 7 MPH while still pedalling before quickly releasing the hand lever to start the engine. You still need to be pedalling after you release the hand lever too.

    After an engine is fully broken in and tuned up properly, you can start it by lifting the rear wheel off of the ground and giving the pedal a quick kick.
     
  5. pechroc1

    pechroc1 New Member

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    yeah i have done that. even when i continue to pedal the clutch plate just slips inside the flywheel...theres not enough friction to hold the flywheel.
     
  6. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    It sounds like your clutch flower nut is adjusted too loose and your clutch is slipping too.
    Adjusting the clutch:
    1. Adjust clutch cable so there is only a little bit of slack in the inner wire when the hand lever is released all the way out.
    2. Remove gear case cover from right side of engine.
    3. Remove lock screw from clutch outer plate. It's the little screw that fits into the notches on the edge of the center nut (called a flower nut).
    4. Squeeze in clutch hand lever until it touches the hand grip. Hold it there with some tape or a piece of wire.
    5. While pushing in on the outer clutch plate with one hand, tighten the flower nut until snug, just using your fingertips. Do not use pliers, ect.
    6. Unscrew flower nut 1/2 to 1 turn out, aligning a notch on the flower nut with the hole in the outer clutch plate that the lock screw goes into.
    7. Install lock screw but don't tighten it just yet.
    8. Remove tape or wire from hand lever and let it release all the way out.
    9. Tighten lock screw for flower nut.
    10. Adjust clutch cable if necessary to give just a little free play to the inner cable when the hand lever is all the way out. You should be able to wiggle the clutch release arm a little.
    11. Install gear case cover and test ride. Every clutch is a little different.
    You may have to fine tune the adjustment of the flower nut by a few notches.
     
  7. pechroc1

    pechroc1 New Member

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    i appreciate your help. but i have done that already. its like it just keeps slipping... no matter how tight i make the flower nut (even with the clutch completely disengdged) it wont turn the flywheel...maybe because the magnet shaft is to hard to turn... i dont know. his is my first project.
     
    #7 pechroc1, Sep 4, 2010
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2010
  8. KCvale

    KCvale Active Member

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    Happy 'Clutch Day' is right...

    If completely disengaging the clutch cable won't engage the motor the piston isn't moving.
    Did you put in a longer plug?
    Can you turn the motor over manually on the right side with a socket wrench?

    These clutches usually have the opposite problem, they won't disengage.
    But, if push come to shove they will if the piston won't move before the crank breaks.
     
  9. pechroc1

    pechroc1 New Member

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    what do you mean by "a longer plug"? and yes i can turn the motor over with some difficulty with either a socket wrench on the magnet side or a flat screwdriver in the clutch side.

    im glad u understand my problem. even if u dont have the answer. THANK YOU
     
  10. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    Is there any oil or grease on the clutch friction pads, outer pressure plate or inner pressure plate? They need to be absolutely clean and dry.
     
  11. KCvale

    KCvale Active Member

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    OK, good. it's not the motor.
    (had to ask)
    I just posted detailed clutch adjustment procedures with good pics this week (again).
    The Forum Search is you your friend.

    Search for Clutch in the subject and KCvale as the author.
    It is a step by step again with pics, but aimed more at freeing up a stuck clutch and not one that won't engage.

    But you say you are getting 'No Spark'...

    Have you verified that with the right side cover off the motor is not turning over when the clutch is disengaged?
    Just look at the gear.

    No spark is a whole different story.
     
    #11 KCvale, Sep 4, 2010
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2010
  12. pechroc1

    pechroc1 New Member

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    yes... clean and dry....should i take the flower nut and plate completely off? try to see if something is wrong inside... or am i just opening a can of worms?
     
  13. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    No worms, just a weak spring that helps the release plate move away from the friction pads and a bunch of friction pads.
    Norm's tutorial shown everything in there. You do not have to do everything he does during a simple inspection though; such as removing the small gear. Leave it alone for now.
    http://motorbicycling.com/f39/motor-bicycle-clutch-301.html
     
  14. pechroc1

    pechroc1 New Member

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    thanks for the link bro. i'll have to do it tomorrow in the daylight. if you have any other ideas i'll be glad to hear 'em out. thx alot.:-||
     
  15. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    Well, short of an exorcism, I think all of us here can help you out.
    These are cheap engines with cheap factory quality control. All they need is a little massaging and TLC. Which is easy enough to do if you have the patience.
    Hundreds of folks have dealt with the same problems before and are now happily riding their bikes.
     
  16. pechroc1

    pechroc1 New Member

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    Have you verified that with the right side cover off the motor is not turning over when the clutch is disengaged?
    Just look at the gear.

    yes i have ... its not turning


    No spark is a whole different story.[/QUOTE]


    yeah. sorry. i know. it was just that as i investigated why i had no spark that lead me finding this issue. thank you.
    :-||:-||:-|
     
    #16 pechroc1, Sep 4, 2010
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2010
  17. pechroc1

    pechroc1 New Member

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    ok found a thread explaining all the adjustmemts that can be made to the clutch. even after all ajustment in many combos it wount grab.

    i have a couple questions:
    1- is it possible the piece of SH!T friction pads are shot without ever being run?
    2- as tightening the flower nut it grabs better only until a certain point...then if i tighten it 1/8 of a turn more i lose all friction. DOES THAT MAKE SENSE? it seems as it should increase the friction until it locks. but it never locks. i really cant understand.
     
  18. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    I answered your question on the other thread we have going.http://motorbicycling.com/f4/bicycle-engine-clutch-222-13.html

    I hope it helps!
    Oh yeah, the friction pads may need to be trimmed a little bit to fit very slightly loose in the pockets they fit into, but usually they all work quite well when brand new.

    About a month ago, 2 different people had issues with the friction pads after only putting 200 miles or so on the engine. This was a very rare situation.
    The solution was to order new friction pads.
    I am not suggesting that you should do this......yet.
    Let's not put the cart in front of the horse, so to speak.
     
  19. pechroc1

    pechroc1 New Member

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    after adjusting and adjusting with no success and much frustration...i wound up fitting a washer between the clutch plate and the flower nut. worked like a charm. the only thing is that the clutch cable arm is pointing more towards the center of the frame... big whup! its seems after reading another post about the same issue this might be a new defect with some of these kits.

    didn't realize that this little engine would be such an addiction. im very handy but this is my first motorized mechanical venture. very fun! thanks for all your input fellas.

    p.s. ill post some pics soon for those who have the same issue and want to try this remedy.
     
  20. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    As said in the other thread, Congratulations on getting it worked out!
    I agree with your concern that this may become a trend with the newer kits.
    2 identical problems in one week and I have never heard or read about this problem before.
    Not good...........
     

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