New to Motor biking, What kit is best??

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by jrock61, Aug 2, 2011.

  1. jrock61

    jrock61 New Member

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    Hey, Ive definately decided to build a motor bicycle and I know every new guy asks this but which kit is best to get for power and for the money? Ive been researching for a few weeks now and have been told that raw motors is the best motor for power. Im going tomorrow to a local bike shop to look at a few different bikes but would really like a beach cruiser because i like the look. Ive looked at buying a single speed huffy beach cruiser from walmart but have heard that they often cause complications, is that true? I was gonna go with the 80/60cc engine too. I have also been in contact with a couple people who said that they put a boygofast motor on huffy beach cruiser from Walmart without problems, does anybody have any suggestions?? i have about an 850 dollar budget, will that be enough? and i also have a few questions about what most kits come with, do they come with rubber spacers and stuff? or do I have to buy those seperately. also ive been told to purchase a seperate sprocket about a 38 tooth to acquire maximum speed, any other suggestions? Thanks please help!.wee..wee.
     
  2. The Busted Nut

    The Busted Nut New Member

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  3. jrock61

    jrock61 New Member

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    alright, yea those were exactly what i was looking at! thanks for the input, what bike are you putting it on?
     
  4. Sheriff John

    Sheriff John New Member

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    I have built a few of these and I always use a firmstrong urban beach cruiser with 1.5 inch tires and a universal mount. Works like a charm.
     
  5. The Busted Nut

    The Busted Nut New Member

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    Thats what I use except I use the stock tires. It's tricky to keep them away from the chain though.
     
  6. The Busted Nut

    The Busted Nut New Member

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    Buy the raw kit. Comes with EVERYTHING you need. One suggestion for any kit is to replace all bolts with American ones :D
     
  7. jrock61

    jrock61 New Member

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    ill definately look up the firmstrong urban beach cruiser, thank you guys soo much for the advice! Im all hears to any more suggestions
     
  8. AslansMonkey

    AslansMonkey Member

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    With that budget you could afford a better bike than the Walmart quality ones. This pays off, trust me, though many Walmart bikes end up as good conversions. I'd recomment the Grubee GT1 bike (Check Pirate Cycles, one of our sponsors). It's got many "Must haves" built right in like front and rear brakes and a "direct to hub" drive system instead of the "Rag joint" used in the kits. If you go with another bike, spend the money to get a hub adapter and toss the Rag Joint sprocket. I've built four of these bikes and the biggest problem always seems to be that rag joint killing the spokes over time.

    All my bikes use 2.25" x 26" tires and I've never had a problem with chain clearance, though I admit it can be close at times.

    So, in summation, plan on a bike that either has, or can be converted to use standard front and rear brakes (disc, cantilever, v-brake) as the coaster brake on 1 speed cruisers is NOT sufficient for the speed of these motors. Replace the rag joint sprocket or better yet, don't even use it in the first place. Front suspension is very nice, like the "mountian bike" style on the GT1 or a springer fork, which just looks kewl.

    One last thing...be prepared to become an addict. Welcome to the club!
     
  9. NunyaBidness

    NunyaBidness Active Member

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    I agree, somewhat, with AslansMonkey. With that budget I would visit a local bike shop and look at the used bike selection.

    I wouldn't say anything about putting a motor on the bike unless you already know they are cool with motorized bikes. I would find a nice old school steel framed mtn. bike with front suspension. I would be willing to spend about 200 on the bike.

    I would go to Sick Bike Parts LLC - Performance parts for your motorized bicycle and get a few things. Shift kit, expansion chamber exhaust and maybe some other stuff. Just making sure I leave enough for a good motor kit.

    With that kind of budget I could have a really nice motor bike with gears and front suspension. I'd never stop riding that thing.
     
  10. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

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    These are the things that I do, I see that others such as the seals (which I've never had one go bad) mentioned. All these mods or replacements are most likely less then $50.00. Choose what works for you, ignore the rest, but here you have them.

    1. Unpack engine
    2. Check for any missing parts
    3. Remove head
    4. Mill head (flat glass and 230 (or finer) grit sand paper. Rub gasket surface to insure it is flat. Check the cylinder also.
    5. Tap cylinder stud holes to insure they are taped to the bottom.
    6. Discard all studs and nuts.
    7. Replace studs with Metric 8.8 (US Grade 5) Replace nuts with locking nuts. 8mm studs are either 1.0 or 1.25 thread, 6mm studs are 1.0 thread. 8mmX1.0 is not common, but I have 1 engine with them.
    8. Replace spark plug with a NGK or the like.
    9. Replace spark plug wire and boot (check with lawnmower supply) or rob from old lawnmower. Use wire core lead.
    10. Mount the engine properly, no gaps between the bike tubes and engine mounts.
    Engine Mounting pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket
    11. Torque 8mm to 150 to 200 INCH POUNDS
    12. Torque 6mm to 60-70 INCH POUNDS
    13. I install cylinder studs with lock tite, and let set overnight
    14. I coat the head gasket with Copper Kote
    15. May need to bend exhaust pipe for crank or frame clearance. Recommend using heat.
    16. Remove or cap magneto white wire off.
    17. Re solder blue wire on magneto.
    18. Make sure all wires have a good connection and use tape or better yet heat shrink.
    19. Hook up kill wires AFTER you get engine running.
    20. Try not to drill holes in the bike frame.
    21. Do away with the clutch cable routing; there are a number of options.
    Homemade Mods pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket
    If you want to make yourself, PM me and I’ll give you a material list.
    22. On my kit the rag joint had gauge (Metric) 8.8 bolts, If not replace them. I replaced the nuts with lock nuts. (I will trade your locking nuts for your stock nuts). I use them making my clutch roller.
    23. I sealed the wires coming from the magneto out of the engine with RTV.
    24. Place a “O” ring in the carburetor throat.
    25. Some say replace the axle with a better one. Never had a axle bend on me.
    26. Use thin wire (I use Stainless safety wire), and wrap around the idle screw and secure to the carburetor.
    http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/Ron-Becker/Homemade Mods/?action=view&current=MVC-003F.jpg
    27. For coaster brakes…Some say trim the cap, but I don't like it.
    ‪Bearing cap mod‬‏ - YouTube or a file of sorts can be used.

    I wouldn't buy a thing from BGF or luckyearlybird (related)...NOTHING
     
    #10 Al.Fisherman, Aug 3, 2011
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2011
  11. jrock61

    jrock61 New Member

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    thank you all for the great advice, ill be purchasing my bike today or tomorrow, ill let you know what i get! also i think ive decided to go ahead and purchase the kit from RawMotors.

    nonyaBidness, thanks for the refferal to Sick Bike Parts! is the shift kit difficult to install? and that will enable me to have gears correct?

    Thanks you all once again, and any more suggestions just let me know!
     
  12. NunyaBidness

    NunyaBidness Active Member

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    From what I have seen the shifter kit is no more difficult to install than the engine. Also the shift kit comes with MUCH better install instructions. Yes, it allows you to use the bikes gears with the motor and you can still pedal the bike if needed.
     
  13. jrock61

    jrock61 New Member

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    sounds good! thanks for the info
     

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