New Member, picking up on Friday!

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by IWantToRide88, Jul 24, 2012.

  1. IWantToRide88

    IWantToRide88 New Member

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    I have recently gotten into this and I just want some of your guys' advice. To be clear, I have never even riden a gasbike yet, and have stumbled onto what seems to be a steal of a deal on CL. Just wondering if this looks worth 150$ to you guys. I was planning on getting a skyhawk to begin with to instal on my bike anyway, and this is complete for cheaper than the amount of the engine itself. Should i keep it as is? or should i mount the motor on my cruiser? as well as the front forks, tires/rims, breaks and fenders. dnut

    The cruiser that i own is just a stock image off the internet btw.
     

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  2. cmanns

    cmanns New Member

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    Looks nice man.

    I spent 130 on a ghetto over rear / moped 33cc motor that went on a lil bit smaller bike. If I saw a full bike on CL for even 200 I'd of got that to have something going.

    I like cruisers but I'd ride that one as-is, looks clean and I like that style frame. may want to pickup another motor anyhow, then do your cruiser. If one of them blows got a backup :]
     
  3. bigbutterbean

    bigbutterbean New Member

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    the red bike looks pretty good as is, and is worth well over $150 even if the motor doesnt run. its a steal. for that price, i would pick it up if it were local and I had the money. the forks alone are probably worth at least $100. one thing i do recommend is you get some sort of front brake. about 80% of a bike's stopping power is in the front brake.
     
  4. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    I like the bike the way it is also, perfect frame for these engines, that would make a real nice shift kit set up on down the road also, and as bigbutterbean said get a front brake on it as soon as you can if you get it and make sure the front fender is very very securely mounted and replace the fuel line, looks like just plain air line on it, the Gas mix will likely eat it up and small particles of the rubber will end up in the carburetor which will plug up the main jet and most likely get in between the needle & seat and cause the carb to flood the engine and/or overflow fuel all over things.
    one heck of a good deal on that bike IMHO.....!

    Peace, map (^)
     
  5. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Active Member

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    The motor kit is worth that unless it shows signs of abuse. I'd bob the fenders though. Are you a Honda motorcycle owner? Your handle reminds me of the song in the Honda TV commmercials.
     
  6. IWantToRide88

    IWantToRide88 New Member

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    Those are my thoughts exactly; even if the motor's junk i still have a ton of parts. parts that i was planning on buying anyway. I'm really excited about it. When i pick it up i'll update you all on how it rides. I think it looks pretty clean as-is too. .duh.
     
  7. IWantToRide88

    IWantToRide88 New Member

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    Any modifications you guys would make? From what you can see? What does 'bob' the forks mean?.bf.
     
  8. bigbutterbean

    bigbutterbean New Member

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    bob the fenders means cut them smaller for less drag. makes the bike more aerodynamic, and on motorcycles, its less weight. for a bicycle, i dont think even those fenders weigh all that much to begin with, so it would be mostly to reduce drag. there is a style of motorcycle that is called a "bobber" which got its name from bobbing the fenders. thats your call. i personally dont have any fenders on my bike. but its a choice between what you like and what you think is best. the only modification I would recommend is getting rid of the stock chain idler. thats the steel piece with the plastic wheel clamped to the left chain stay, basically holding up the bottom of the engine chain. they are known to be problematic, and can loosen up and fly into your spokes. the best option is to attempt to shorten the chain enough that you dont need the idler. I cant tell from the pic what width your chain is, my chain is smaller and i was able to use the $5 chain breaker tool available at walmart. if your chain is wider, you may want to look elsewhere for a tool that is wide enough, or use a hammer and punch to remove the pins holding the links of the chain together.
     
  9. donphantasmo

    donphantasmo New Member

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    Just a motor itself without anything added to it (if it's free and not seized) is worth more then 150. So, a motor kit installed on a nice bike is well worth 300-400 bucks.. No brainer..
     
  10. bigbutterbean

    bigbutterbean New Member

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    Actually, I paid $90 including shipping for a replacement engine from bgf over a year ago, its still running like a champ. so its not necessary to go out and spend $150 on an engine when you can get a kit for around that price. either way, a complete bike is worth around 3 or 4 hundred.
     
  11. IWantToRide88

    IWantToRide88 New Member

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    So I picked up this steal of a deal today. It runs like a champ!...that is..when I can get it going. Almost everytime I start 'er up it takes me a minute to actually get the bike to power itself. I solve this by pedaling up to a high speed and revving it in idle than popping the clutch. Is it just flooded? Guy who I picked it up from said he never really ever got around to riding it, so could it be that it still needs to be 'broken in'? I can get it running champ everytime, but i just don't like the hassle of toying with the throttle just to get some torque.
     
  12. bigbutterbean

    bigbutterbean New Member

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    sounds like its got high compression. my motor is hard starting at times due to high compression, and takes a bit to warm up if i start her cold with no choke. i personally dont mind it too much. of course, from sitting that long, it could also be that your clutch is a little loose. when i adjust my clutch cable, i loosen the lock nut on the end of the cable and use two pairs of pliers, one to pull the clutch cable taut and one to push the lock nut a little further in. you dont want to over-tighten the clutch cable too much though, or you will still have starting issues. i check for play by letting the clutch lever out, then pulling it with one finger. if i feel a lot of free play with no tension, then its time to adjust. one piece of advice i can give you. dont go around adjusting a whole bunch of stuff without having a way to check if it needs adjusted first. you will save yourself a lot of hassle by only adjusting things that actually need adjusting. plus its a lot easier to troubleshoot when you know what to look for.
     

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