New Bike, New Engine, few questions...

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by fugirocksolid, Apr 10, 2011.

  1. fugirocksolid

    fugirocksolid New Member

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    I recently purchase a Rock Solid Engine kit (70cc) and a Fugi Nevada 4.0 to mount it to.
    It took some heckling to formulate some custom mounts (mainly u-bolts and frame drilling) Though I still have some questions.
    My first is, when riding, do other peoples bikes sound like the chain is going crazy? My chain is a little loose, but doesn't come off.
    The problem is I cant use the tensioner unless its in a specific spot, otherwise it derails the engine chain.
    The engine is straight but the tensioner isnt.... nor can i seem to get it straight.

    When riding at high speeds, does your bike vibrate a fair bit? Its mainly bars, Ill use some bike tube to fix it, but just wandering.

    How much of a performance gain is from a pipe? Ive ridden on motors before with pipes, but not motorized bikes.
    Do you get the power bands? like that boost of power at certain rpms.

    Questions asside now, Id like to say the Rock Solid Engine is amazing.
    Deadset, straight out of the box, after maybe 5km's, it can climb hills that seem impossible, with ease.
    For anyone in Australia, Id recommended this engine highly. Its made in australia and seems un beatable.
    Its 40kph at stock, even before running in.

    Heres some pics, and cheers for the help.
     

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  2. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    "Its made in australia and seems un beatable."

    What..! more like Austra-china-lia.....LOL!

    Glad it runs great and you are enjoying it but where did you here these were made in Australia?

    Peace
     
  3. fugirocksolid

    fugirocksolid New Member

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    All the machining is done in australia, and the engines are assembled here. Some parts are imported sure, but there machined here.

    Just what ive been told
     
  4. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    No offense intended......... but I wouldn't believe that one if I were you, these engines are made completely in China and that is why they are so cheap and roughly built, if all the machining on these engines was done in Australia or the USA they would cost probably three times as much, these would be $350-$400+ kits and not $150.

    I actually hope and pray that the workmanship and quality of Australia and other western world countries never stoops to the workmanship and quality of the Chinese product they peddle to the rest of the world.

    looks to me like you got a good ole Happy Time (HT) China Girl Kit, and have it working well, nothing wrong with that, but I wouldn't ever tell anyone it's made in your country, I know for a fact that Australians take much more pride in their work than what goes into these China built engines, but as I always say they are cheap and low tech but a good bang for the buck when we get a good-un set up right.

    Happy Riding.....!

    Peace

    dance1



     
  5. fugirocksolid

    fugirocksolid New Member

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    The engine kit cost $350.

    Heres pictures of the cylinder head being machined.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    The jug/cylinder in that pic has the same casting marks as the rest of these china made engines, the jugs are cast not machined... and I dont know what is being made out of that small block of aluminum in the other pics but it is for sure not a cylinder head or a cylinder/jug for your engine unless someone is making a jug from scratch that will be made in several pieces...

    and if you are paying $350 for one of these chinese made engines you are getting ripped off sir.....!

    No offense intended here but these bike engines are mass produced in china and I dont know why you are trying to convince anyone otherwise....

    ???????????????????

    Thousands of these have been bought and sold by folks on this and other forums........and to my knowledge you are the first person that has ever had one "built in Australia", It makes little difference to me where an engine is built personally.

    Could you please give us a link to where we can get one of these Australian built engines?

    I'm sure some would rather spend their money there rather than China.... myself I just want to see who in Australia is selling these home land built engines and where we can get them if we deside we would rather pay $350 for something we can get elsewhere for $140 or so.

    Below are some pics of the www.rocksolidengine.com.au 's pics verses the pics of the engine we all have which can be bought at under $200 on ebay 24/7, notice how very different they aren't....?

    I do believe rocksolidengines.com is making some mods to some of their way over priced engines but the engine are not made by them, I am done with this at this point but I just wanted to show you some proof so you are not fooled into paying all that extra money for no good reason.

    Peace & Happy safe MB-in fugirocksolid


     

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  7. superbob

    superbob New Member

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    I've been eyeballing these rock solid engines, and I'm new to all this so I'll keep it humble.

    1. Rock solid's claim is that they buy the raw, cast parts from China and do their own machining, assembly and upgrades.

    2. It would just about be worth it to crack open that wallet and have a bunch of racing gearheads with a state of the art machine shop go through my engine, even if it is made in China. Just to have it do all it could do, and smoothly, and quietly....

    3. All that should reflect in horsepower gains, so I asked them. They e-mailed me back that they are getting 3 hp from their standard 50cc engine @ 6000 rpm and about 5 hp from their stage 3 offering. And 12 hp from their water cooled (china) 50cc they are developing for later production.

    4. Their standard 50cc runs 230.00. Shipping from Australia... priceless. No, just kidding, it's only TWO HUNDRED FRIGGIN DOLLARS! So a stage one 50cc chinaussie will run you about 450.00! 650.00 for stage three! May as well get a Honda!

    Somewhere, I think it was on this site, there was a little discussion about rock solid and a builder commented, 'if they do half the things to their engines that I do to mine, and I'm sure they do... it'll run circles around the others.'

    So where are the American builders who are willing to buy cast parts or at least tear down new engines and machine, balance, port, polish, upgrade, test, reject and replace? I know people are doing it to their own builds, I'd like to see them jump into the now-empty market with a china girl for the rest of us, one that purrs like it could, if it was set right in the first place. I'd come off some jack for that, even if it hurt a little.

    And if you have an rse engine, speak up already. There aren't many reviews out there.
     
  8. Dr. Dognuts

    Dr. Dognuts New Member

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    I purchased a slant head from rocksolid. I'm no expert, but it looks stock and untouched to me. I havn't needed to fit it, so no idea if its any good or not.
    SDC10972.JPG

    I read on their site that they run in the motors for about 500kms on a dyno. That might be worth something.

    Good luck to them if people buy their product, but I got into this as a cheap hobby, that I can do the performace mods myself on.
     
  9. matthurd

    matthurd New Member

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    Bicycle Engine Kits - Rock Solid Engines

    they are just chinese motors.

    they may do some mods to it, but at its core its a cheap chinese motor.

    Rock Solid do not simply purchase from overseas manufacturers and on-sell products to end users. We do not know any other organization in Australia who disassemble motors and rebuild them before they forward the product onto their clients, Rock Solid Engines DO! That’s what we do for a living; we assemble and modify engine components.

    Rock Solid Engines source our engines from China, and have extensively visited numerous manufacturers in person throughout 07/08 for thorough assessment. A casting manufacturer has been handpicked along with component manufacturers to commence production for Rock Solid Engines exclusively.

    @mapbike australias expensive and the laws for mbs are ridiculous there as well, pretty sure OP is over there speed limit. rocksolid actually sells a detuned motor just because of that.
     
  10. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

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    If you're riding on pavement- those knobbys contribute a lot of vibration at higher speeds- you'd get less with smooth tires or street tread- and a lot better roll with something under 2 inches wide- I got some cheap 1.75- but 1.5 and even 1.25 26" tires are available if you look - the downside is that narrow tires wear faster- the 1.75 are pretty tough though
     
  11. superbob

    superbob New Member

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    That's where I'm at too. I'd come off some money for a quiet, balanced china engine, but not too much. My first build has been such a letdown, there's a frustration factor there that would make make me crack my wallet to make it go away, if there was a proven product out there, and as I look around these forums I think a lot of others feel the same. That's why I say there's a market vacuum (that rse is shrewdly trying to tap into).

    So I was tempted by their engines until I found out the shipping cost, that capped it right there, and I started thinking in terms of, well, a disposable engine. I mean, I'm no machinist, just an amateur mechanic, so all I can do is buy a 140.00 stocker and hope it kind of accidentally runs in sweet, and if it doesn't and it can't be reasonably fixed, put it on the shelf and try another one.

    I don't know, but I have an idea that's how it was with all engines and machinery, back in the day. And China is still back-in-the-day.

    So my next build is a bike with a NuVinci hub - I found one for 230.00 - to smooth out that sluggish, moody 140.00 engine and give it some power, economy and longevity that I'm sure I don't have right now with my stock setup. That and an expansion chamber, and I'm tapped out, no more, that's top of the line for me.
     
  12. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    I say more than likely most people with a little mechanical ability can probably do just about any and /or everything that Rock Solid Motors is doing to these china engines with a good Dremel Tool and an old bike frame to mount the engine on and run it for a while at part throttle with a good fan blowing across it, just my opinion because unless they are actually installing high grade custom made parts then all they may be doing is smoothing up the transfer ports, exhaust port, intake port..ect. which is a good idea but not some great thing that makes the engines worth a lot more when most people who can put a kit on a bike could do all that also......

    My suggestion to you would be to get a 66cc slant engine from who ever you chose, and then order a Sick Bike Parts Expansion Chamber Exhaust and a Manic Mechanics Ported Intake, get you some gasket material and make your own gasket that matches the intake and the intake port, get a NGK B6HS Spark Plug and a NGK Plug Boot or one of the high quality boot & wire combo that SBP or Pirate cycles sales, move the clip on the metering rod in the Carb. to the second notch from the top, put a hundred or so miles on it this way and then take the main jet out of the carb, put a very small piece of solder in the jet, heat it up with a propane torch until the solder melts and fills the hole in the jet, then redrill the hole with a #72 wire gauge drill bit for starters, put the carb back together on back on the engine, then take it for a 5-10 mile round trip, let it cool a bit and then pull the plug and see what color it is, if it is dark brown or black, pull the carb and heat the jet again and there should be enough solder left that it will close the hole again, after doing this use a #73 wire gauge bit and redrill the jet again, and then repeat the test after cleaner the spark plug back to new metal with a wire brush or on an electric wire buffing wheel, if the plug is light/medium brown after this test run and it doesn't 4 stroke all the time accept when going up a hill, you will have it tuned pretty good, if the plug looks pretty good but it does still 4 stroke to much, then just remove the carb. slide and move the clip on the metering rod to the top notch and that should fix it, I have this very setting I just described on 3 different engines and they all run very good like this on OPTI 2 2 stroke oil mixed @ 1.8 OZ per gallon of gas, by doing all this you'll have about $250 in your engine and most likely it will run very good and probably last just as long as those Rock Solid Engines that still have the very same internal components as you engine does, No ONE is making engines just for them and the very same engines they are buying are also out here available to the general public, all of my engines are just the the BGF kits accept for one that I'm not real sure about, it ould be the engiens BGF carries also, to me it doesnt really matter, all mine run well, but they all needed some minor mods to get them there, and the mods that do the most IMO are after market parts like the expansion chamber exhaust and the poted billet intake, and then tune the carb. and put a 36-40T sprocket on the bike unless your a super heavy weight and then the 44-48T might suit you better if you are riding in a very hilly area.

    I dont want to stir a pot of poop with my comments about Rock Solid Motors, I have nothing against them whatsoever and I hope they are very successful with their smoothed up motors, but personally I think they are very over priced for us here in the USA, they still have the same cheap china made components, like the junk exhaust and the other fragile plastic parts, same carb. same sprocket, same chain, same cables, same idler/tensioner, same CDI, same gas tank, some of the engines will likely have the same high RPM vibration issues as some of the other " BRANDS " this is only my opinion which isn't claimed to be worth a plug nickle as we say around here.

    In my opinion if a person can't proform some simple mods to these very simple engines then they are not very likely gonna be able to get them installed on a bike right either, and this is the problem with many of the negative comments on here about these little engines, it's not the engine that is the issue many times.......it's the installer who doesnt know how to set them up right and so the engine gets blamed for be junk, my most recent build was a prime example of this, someone scratched at trying to set the engine up on the bike but failed terribly, then they sold it to another fella for $200 that didn't have anymore knowledge about it then the first guy did and it sat useless in his garage for 1 1/2 years and then I came along and got the wreck of a deal for $75, I put it together right in approx. 8 hours with a few simple mods and now I have a great running and riding bike, that 2other fella's claimed was a piece of junk and would never work.

    Get that $140 engine and do it right and most likely you'll be very happy and will likely have just as good of a set up as the RSE kit, I hope they do well but there is NO way I would spend that kind of money for an engine that is just a smoothed up version of what I can get for half the price and do the simple work myself.

    Good Luck on what ever you do.....

    Peace



     
  13. superbob

    superbob New Member

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    Hey, thank you, mapbike. My new bike is on the way, and I'm going to try what you said. It all makes perfect sense.

    Thanks again.
     
  14. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    Your very welcome superbob,

    There are fella's on here that know more than I, but what I've shared here in the (Mini Book) LOL! is what I have done myself and it has worked great for me so, it should for sure give you a good starting point and then you can work out your build from there, each engine has it's own character so there really isn't a perfect everytime one size fits all in the tuning of these engines teh same as any engine, but there are some improvements that are farely universal for maybe 98% of them.

    I hope you can use these steps to get a good, powerful, reliable engine up and going on your bike, just make sure these three things are done right and you will be on your way......

    1. high quality mounting studs, installed with (BLUE) loctite and nyloc nuts.

    2. make sure rear sprocket is properly aligned with engine, if the build is on a 26" beach cruiser frame like a Huffy or Schwinn, I recommend using 26X1.95 or 26X1.75 tires and NOT the WIDE 26X2.25 balloon type tires, I like to use a flat sprocket on the rear instead of the dished type and your chain alignment will be great, if you do use the dished sprocket, mount it to where the sprocket teeth are inward toward the wheel and not so it offsets the sprocket teeth outward, and you should still have a good set up, I have a 36T on one bike and a 34T on the other and they are just flat sprockets without a dish and they line up perfect with no chain issues on either, I also have a bike with a 41T dished sprocket with the teeth inward toward the wheel and it has good alignment with no issues either, chain alignment is very important......I cant stress this enough.....!

    3. To break the engine in I would run about 3 ounces of Opti 2 oil per gallon of gas until you have used the entire gallon of fuel before I did anything (tuning) to the carb. and then after that I would mix a gallon of gas with 1.8 oz's of the Opti 2 and then after that I would install a NGK B6HS Spark Plug, go on a 4-5 mile round trip ride @ maybe 1/2 to 3/4 throttle ( dont run wide open the entire way IMHO) and then when you get back let it rest for about 15-20 minutes and then take out the spark plug and see what color it is and use that to start leaning the engine down if needed, ( most do need to be leaned up a bit from my experience ), if you dont use Opti 2 oil I would do the breakin at 32:1 and then do my tuning with a 40:1 mix if you go with a cheaper conventional 2 stroke oil, BUT......I HIGHLY RECOMMEND OPTI 2, BEST OUT THERE IN MY OPINION.

    I truly hope I have given you advice here that will help save you some troubles and get you riding asap.....

    Happy safe building & riding wishes....Peace


     
  15. superbob

    superbob New Member

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    Hey, mapbike.

    Thanks again for the continued advice. Although I am new to this, I've been trying to do my homework, and my first build now has about 500 mi on it and just keeps running better, so there's that.

    My second build is going to be on a Cadillac commuter bike with 29 in wheels and a NuVinci hub, all stock from the factory. I got a great deal on it, new, so I hope Cadillac isn't feeding me an old model hub... SURELY not, yeah? Yeah. Had to jump on it, tho, thinking what 29 in wheels, a tall sprocket on the jackshaft, and that hub could do for performance. It could go and go.

    I am already planning on the studs/bolts uprade from SBP, and their HD jackshaft, and their expansion chamber - and, since you suggested it, the ported billet intake, although the standard intake fits my NT carb well. Maybe it'll breathe better. And I just learned about ethanol and the synthetic oils, so we are definitely on the same page there too.

    As for alignment, who knows what a headache that is going to turn into, but it has been done.

    You suggested a 66cc engine, and again I agree. That hub could benefit from it. But I wouldn't be any good trying to lie to the cops, and anyway, I'm from the old VW school, the less torque on your parts the better, and it applies here more than ever.

    Trying to get up to speed here, thanks for the push!
     
  16. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    Quote " the ported billet intake, although the standard intake fits my NT carb well. Maybe it'll breathe better "

    The Jim's ( Manic Mechanic ) ported intake will breathe better and this help with the low rpm 4 stroking, both my bikes do it less after putting that intake on them, they also have an O-ring seal toward the end that may assure that you dont get an air leak, I still smear a thin skim of RTV silicone over the O-ring before installing the carb just for extra insurance.

    just remember that before the carb will fit on the intake you must remove the clutch cable outfit that screws into the engine right under where the carb is and with a hacksaw or a cut off wheel on a small grinder take about 1/4" off the threads so that it will sit down low enough for the carb to clear it, this isnt optional when using the ported intake, it's a must do simple mod.

    The ported intake also allows more room for the carb and filter on the back of the engine.

    Sorry about all the info. I spewd out at ya in the previous post's, I did not reallize you had already built a bike up and was atlking to you as a complete newbie, I feel bad now just didnt know about the experience you already have......Good luck with the new Caddy build, be sure and show us pics as you go or after your done....

    Peace
     

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