Need help in changing out the mounting studs.

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Ursus, Dec 8, 2010.

  1. Ursus

    Ursus New Member

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    Hey guys, just got a gt5 and i have heard that some people have changed out the mounting studs on their builds. How do you get the original studs out of the motor? I'm afraid of them breaking over time. I tried searching but didn't find what i was looking for. Maybe a tutorial with pics somewhere? any help is very appreciated.
     
  2. RebelHellbilly

    RebelHellbilly New Member

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    a good pair of vice grips will do the job great. locked it on the stud and turn:)
     
  3. Ursus

    Ursus New Member

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    I tried vice grips they seem to slip around the smooth part of the stud?? should i just try to monster them off? im worried about it breaking..
     
  4. RebelHellbilly

    RebelHellbilly New Member

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    if ur gonna be replacing the studs i would locked the grips on the threads and the smooth part. locked it tight and slowly turn.
     
  5. skiball83

    skiball83 New Member

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    Put two nuts on the stud, called double nutting. Then you will be able to use a wrench on the first nut you put on to take them out.
     
  6. Hammond Egger

    Hammond Egger New Member

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    Waste of time and money.
     
  7. Mr.Gadget

    Mr.Gadget New Member

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    Both of those ideas/techniques are valid. I would use the dubble nut myself, to save the mounting studs for later.
    Just get hold of it,,, and give it a strong, smooth turn. righty tighty,....... oh everyone know that saying!!! LOL!!!

    What did you meen by "wast of time and money" ???
     
  8. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    I concur. Double nutting is the easiest way and saves the studs if you ever need them in the future. As far as studs and nuts go why not bolts to replace them. Ace hardware or any fastener supplier will be able to provide you with the proper hardware. Go for Allen head cap screws and lock washers. Forget thread locking compound such as Loctite. It just isn't necessary if you torque them properly and have good surface contact with the lock washers.
    In addition I'll repeat what has been written here time and again. Properly installed, the kit supplied hardware (fasteners) are sufficient. The key is to get good surface contact betwen all parts being bolted together and do not over torque the fasteners. Do not retighten after every ride, which some will advise, and check the tighteness (doesn't mean tighten them, just check them) after a few miles, especially engine fasteners, head bolts, intake and exhaust fasteners, after the engine has reached operating temperature a couple of times.
    Good luck.
    Tom
     
    #8 2door, Dec 8, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2010
  9. Hammond Egger

    Hammond Egger New Member

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    I mean it's a waste of time and money to replace Chinese studs with what is probably more Chinese studs. I'm on my fourth build and I've never stripped a thread or twisted a stud off. I don't use locktite or anti-sieze and I've never had a nut vibrate off.
     
  10. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    See? Here is a man who knows fasteners. Thank you, Hammond.
    Tom
     
  11. yodar

    yodar New Member

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    There is a product called KROIL KROIL Kreeps...it gets inta and unda..it will penetrate underneath the metal fouling in a rifle barrel and allow you to brush copper fouling out. It is the penetrating oil from H*LL. Apply drops around the affected part and letter sit overnight and then try the gorilla trick tomorrow

    GOOD LUCK!

    YODAR
     
  12. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

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    Definetly:

    the only acceptable way- the EASIEST way, AND the way you won't damage the threads is to use the double-nut lockdown method- tighten two bolts AGAINST each other tight at the top of the threads, but make sure both nuts are covering stud thread,

    and then using two small wrenches, (10 mm spanners are best)
    turn both nuts off together- with a little more pressure on the bottom nut, so it doesn't unlock again-

    the studs should turn off- if nuts unlock, try again.
     
  13. Zoomie

    Zoomie New Member

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    I actually just did this a few hours ago for myself. I double nutted it. Worked like a charm.

    I had to take both studs out of the front motor mount completely. I don't plan on replacing them (they don't fit around my bike's thicker front tube - Yea, I've got the universal mount option but it's useless for me... not enough space.) My bike's "vee" is so tight that if I do anything with the front motor mount at all then the motor won't fit at all (the top of the spark plug boot is already rubbing on the top tube (ow!)

    So, my rear engine mount gets tightened very tight while the motor is in the lowest point possible in the vee and the front motor mount has a friction fit (the mount's "crotch" hangs on) on the thicker variety front tube... I've got a big u-bolt pushing down on the front motor mount to keep the motor from rising and the front motor mount crotch hanging on preventing sideways movement - HOPEFULLY (fingers crossed that the motor will be stable this way... we'll see...)

    If that doesn't work I guess I'll either have to buy a new bike or take the old one into a weld shop for mods...​
     
    #13 Zoomie, Dec 9, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2010
  14. skiball83

    skiball83 New Member

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    Hey Zoomie dont do that. Figure out some way to mount the front down, cause if you dont you will put too much stress on the rear mount and eventually it will fail. BTW where in Chicago are you? Im just south of Lincolnwood. Peterson and Kimball area.
     
  15. Zoomie

    Zoomie New Member

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    Thanks for the advice... I'm actually in Oak Park near Harlem & Washington... ;-)
     
    #15 Zoomie, Dec 9, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2010
  16. skiball83

    skiball83 New Member

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    Your welcome, and thats a little far to travel on an MB for me in this weather....its only 13 out now as Im sure your aware of. Lets get some MB'ers together and ride when the weather warms up. Start recruiting, and put yourself on the map.....Motorbicycling.com Members
     
  17. Zoomie

    Zoomie New Member

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    Sound good... Thx.
     
  18. jKellym

    jKellym New Member

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    After putting a couple hundred miles on my motor one of the rear mounts sheared off. While trying to back the stud out with an ease out, the ease out broke off inside the stud. I will definately be upgrading my hardware on the new motor I have to buy.
     
  19. Mr.Gadget

    Mr.Gadget New Member

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    Send it to me, or take it to a shop. Some one should be able to get it out for alot less than the cost of a new motor.
     
  20. MarkSumpter

    MarkSumpter New Member

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    "Double Nutting" (Sounds suggestively naughty) is actually termed as JAM NUTTING, unless you want to get laughed out of a shop don't use the previous term around experienced mechanics.

    The preferred method of removing studs is with a stud removal tool like this one available from JEGS:

    [​IMG]

    They work well to remove studs and allow putting the torque close to the stud end where it goes into the casting and will minimize the chance of twisting it off. It rated from 1/4" to 3/4" studs but mine fits well on the mounting studs of my bike engine.
     

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