My First Build...

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by Psycho.mc, Sep 23, 2009.

  1. Psycho.mc

    Psycho.mc New Member

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    So I have been working on my first build for the last 3 days and its always one thing away from being done. I installed the engine, the sprocket, and all the wires and realized the engine chain was a lil to long, so I removed a link. Then I reatached everything and then the chain was too short!!!, I had to sit for hours hammering the pins on the old links I had removed before, then used the vise to push the pins back into the chain.

    But then then once the chain was on and everything was back together it kept popping off the sprocket
    i realized that i had made the engine slightly tilted when i mounted it.

    Does anyone have a beach cruiser mounting template????
    and If not I'm gonna make one myself and post it so you can print it

    i finally got my engine as straight as i could get it without re mounting it and got it riding!!
    It was so fun until my master link popped off !!!
    It scrapped on the chain tension-er must have got caught on it because my chain tension-er wheel shot out too.

    Now today i get to fabricate a new master link and chain tension-er
     
  2. Dave31

    Dave31 Moderator
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    Welcome to the forum Psycho.mc scratg
     
  3. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Psycho,
    The master link should be installed so that the open end of the clip faces the rear when entering the sprocket side of the motor. I hope that makes sense. In other words, you want any interference to push against the clip, not push it off the link.
    The chain tensioners in every kit needs to be twisted slightly to align the centerline of the tensioner wheel with the chain path. Installed without the twist the wheel will tend to pull the chain of to the side instead of feeding it onto the rear sprocket as it is designed to do. Hope this helps.
    Tom
     
  4. momentummotorgroup

    momentummotorgroup New Member

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    another big thing is make sure all your shyt is tight. I had the same problems on my first build, and it all was due to not pulling the rear wheel tight enough which led to drag, the pedal chain skipping on it's sprocket (which led to a $100 changeout on the crankset for no good reason) and worst, shredding a tire due to the engine tugging and pulling the wheel's alignment off. Switching out all your nuts with nylon threaded ones or using locktite is a good call too, as otherwise you wind up rattling off screws left and right during your ride.

    Another thing is to use Opti-2 for your synthetic oil. You can get it at most mower shops these days. One pack to One gallon of gas (i use premium) and it rides like a champ. I just did my latest build with this fuel mix and the thing is running like a dream..
     
  5. bairdco

    bairdco a guy who makes cool bikes

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    buy a chain breaker tool and get rid of the master link. i installed mine correctly, no tensioner, no rub, perfect alignment, and threw the chain in the first 20 minutes. i think those chains just have something against us. almost every thread i read has someone blowing a masterlink.
     
  6. Psycho.mc

    Psycho.mc New Member

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    so i ended up getting a new bike side chain and making my engine side chain solid with no master link but sense i no longer have a tensioner wheel i am making a slide bar like on a street bike but i wanna make mine with a spring so it adusts itself

    btw
    thanks for all the sugestions !!!!!
    you all rock my socks!
     
  7. Psycho.mc

    Psycho.mc New Member

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    my engine keeps spuddering like it wants to start when i pedal but wont turn over completly it just turns over 1s out of 6 pedals
    any ideas?
     
  8. momentummotorgroup

    momentummotorgroup New Member

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    sounds like the same problem I had, and if you're following the directions, you might have your entire setup grounded wrong. the wiring should be black engine wire to black CDI to black killswitch wire, blue to blue to red killswitch wire (3 way connects on each) and the white wire that allegedly is the "ground" is actually a 3 amp output for a light. I generally just tape that white one off..
     

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