My Build has started :) Another Cranbrook

Discussion in 'Motorized Cruiser Bicycles' started by Caramanos2000, Dec 31, 2009.

  1. Caramanos2000

    Caramanos2000 New Member

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    I bought a huffy cranbrook cruiser at walmart and took the thing appart for painting. I have painted the frame with Rustoleum Truck bed Liner and the fenders with a nice copper color.

    Picked up my engine kit from BGF, I got the black Slant head kit. Im going to try and only run Opti-2 from breakin on, I picked some up online.

    Should I run it at 100:1 from the start? Since its a slant what octane gas and what spark plug do you guys recommend?

    What grease should I use for my bearings on the bike?

    What grease should I use on the parts of the engine you guys suggest I lube(like the clutch area etc)?

    What should I lube my chain with?

    Should I bother upgrading my fuel line?

    Ive done allot of reading on boost bottles, should I bother trying one or no?

    Can I remove the baffle without causing harm to the engine other than being loud?

    Im planing on buying some v-brakes to help out the coaster brakes, is just a rear brake ok or should I get one for the front too?
     
    #1 Caramanos2000, Dec 31, 2009
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2009
  2. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

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    I can only speak to the brakes - if you're going to install one brake, put it on the front. And if you're going to do v-brakes, you'll need to weld pegs onto the front fork, or replace the front fork with one that has pegs. Rear - you need to weld, unless you want to start with another frame altogether.

    Make sure you reinforce those fenders before you put them back on. Bairdco has a good set of directions on that: http://motorbicycling.com/f11/fender-fixes-tip-bairdco-industries-14032.html Cranbrook fenders are not known for their longevity.
     
  3. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Active Member

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    Most members run 20:1 premix during breakin.
    Ditto on the front brake. Get one. You can run a bmx brake through the fender hole in the fork.
    Use any good grease on wheel bearings.
    I use 90wt gear oil on my chain, because i have a lot of it.
    Fuel line supplied with the kit worked fine for me. They should probably be replaced annually, since they harden over time.
     
  4. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

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    Oh, for the chain, I bought a spray can of chain lube from the hardware store.
     
  5. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    I'll be the first to reply to your Opti-2 question. Run it @100:1 for break in and thereafter. I have had very good luck with it and recommend it highly.

    Wheel bearings: Any good quality wheel bearing grease. (auto parts store)
    Chain: There are lubes made especially for bicycle chains but they are overpriced when compared to any light oil. I've been having good results with chain/bar oil made for chainsaws. It seems to stick better than most. When I want to clean the chain and sprockets I grab my wife's Scott's Liquid Gold, a wood cleaner and preservative that has an oil base and a solvent that does a heck of a job cleaning the rollers and sprocket.
    Muffler baffles: The jury is still out on whether or not running without baffles will cause harm. Most will agree that it does your engine no good and tends to p**s off the neighbors. Many of us here try to discourage running open/loud exhaust in an effort to make our hobby less objectionable to the general public and display us in a better light.
    Good luck with your build and send us some photos of the finished product.
    Tom
     
  6. Caramanos2000

    Caramanos2000 New Member

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    Thanks for the tips guys :) May I ask why front braking is better?

    I had NO idea about the fenders I really appreciate the heads up. My fenders are threaded and they come apart entirely with nuts and bolts :) I will upgrade the hardware and use locknuts aswell as try the heat shrink tip. My frame has the hole to attach brakes to the rear but Im assuming they wont fit with the fender installed.... Are just running coaster brakes a no no?
     
  7. Caramanos2000

    Caramanos2000 New Member

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    Thanks man, I had read your posts about opti 2 in the 100:1 thread, some good info in it :) I will try to modify the exhaust then or fab one up thats less restrictive but not too loud. Can you guys link me to some basic info on adjusting the carb settings and what parts need to be lubed on a brand new kit?
     
  8. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

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    For the fenders, you need to remove the rivets that hold the cheap L bracket on, and replace that L bracket with some sturdier metal. Or you can get a fender mount kit from Wald that nests right up under there, if you're not much for the fabricating.

    http://www.amazon.com/Wald-447-Fend...=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1262288626&sr=1-13

    Actually, looking at that, I'd still add a sturdier L bracket, although the little cradle underneath looks handy.

    At low speeds, I don't think a coaster-only is a problem, really. But the coaster on that bike wasn't really designed to stop a bike going 30MPH. I've heard stories of coaster brake arms bending, and if your pedal chain goes for some reason, you don't have any brakes at all.

    With front and rear brakes, most of the stopping is done by the front brake. But you do want a rear brake, too, so that you can control your stop, rather than go flying over on your head.

    I think you should be able to find a decent caliper brake that fits around the fender, and can share the same mounting hole in the frame and forks as the fender does.
     
  9. Caramanos2000

    Caramanos2000 New Member

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    My fenders dont have any rivets at all... i will post pics of everything so you can can take a look see.

    Anyone have the spooky tooth expansion chamber?
     
    #9 Caramanos2000, Dec 31, 2009
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2009

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