master link jams .... any fix for it ? it is an 415 stock chain ,,,, do yall think an #41 Roller Chain will solve this problem ? This option may be better than trying to fix it ? Thanks !
Master Link Jams
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Is the connecting plate and stay on the outside, meaning looking at the chain?
If it is on the inside (towards motor) that is the problem, just reverse it.
The outside clutch cover has a lot more clearance than the gear to motor side.
If it is on the inside (towards motor) that is the problem, just reverse it.
The outside clutch cover has a lot more clearance than the gear to motor side.
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Also make sure the closed end of the master link clip is facing forward as it enters the engine case.
Check your chain alignment carefully to make sure you're not 'dragging' the chain to either side of the engine drive sprocket.
Tom
Check your chain alignment carefully to make sure you're not 'dragging' the chain to either side of the engine drive sprocket.
Tom
Where's it jamming? if it's jaming around the front sprocket then it sounds like KC has it nailed.If that's the case.I would just add that you should install the retaining clip so that the opening of the clip is trailing in the back during operation.
If not your chain could be jamming on the casting boss for the bottom screw of the cover.
If your chain is loose enough.
I mold metal putty on that little "shelf" on the casting boss and let it harden.In a Kinda 1/4 moon shape.Make sure you mold the putty so that the cover can be re-installed properly.
This creates a nice transion for the chain to follow and not catch.Also when you have that cover off check for chain wear marks on the cover expecially on the front "wall" of the cover if there is I notch the wall out a little wider than the chain for clearance,or you can file or dremil it for clearance.
While your at it pull out the clutch actuator rod.It's that 8mm round rod sticking out of your motor,Be carefull there's a ball bearing in there.
If the bearing stays in good.take a little dollop of grease and smear it in there.About the size of a small marble.
Then clean off your actuator rod and check it for wear marks along the sides.
I've seen them with burrs from where the factory cut them on one end and lathe cut off nipples on the other end.make sure it's de-burred and file the nipple off."Don't round the ends"Just take off the sharp edges.
Then I smooth the rod up with sand paper and grease it and re-install it.With a dollop of grease on the actuator end.
A little PM while you have it apart might help down the road!Kip
If not your chain could be jamming on the casting boss for the bottom screw of the cover.
If your chain is loose enough.
I mold metal putty on that little "shelf" on the casting boss and let it harden.In a Kinda 1/4 moon shape.Make sure you mold the putty so that the cover can be re-installed properly.
This creates a nice transion for the chain to follow and not catch.Also when you have that cover off check for chain wear marks on the cover expecially on the front "wall" of the cover if there is I notch the wall out a little wider than the chain for clearance,or you can file or dremil it for clearance.
While your at it pull out the clutch actuator rod.It's that 8mm round rod sticking out of your motor,Be carefull there's a ball bearing in there.
If the bearing stays in good.take a little dollop of grease and smear it in there.About the size of a small marble.
Then clean off your actuator rod and check it for wear marks along the sides.
I've seen them with burrs from where the factory cut them on one end and lathe cut off nipples on the other end.make sure it's de-burred and file the nipple off."Don't round the ends"Just take off the sharp edges.
Then I smooth the rod up with sand paper and grease it and re-install it.With a dollop of grease on the actuator end.
A little PM while you have it apart might help down the road!Kip
i just get rid of them. a chain's only as strong as it's weakest link, and that's the masterlink.
but we've beat this controversial subject to death already.
but we've beat this controversial subject to death already.
This was the fix that done it . The only place the chain was jamming was at the front sprocket ; and only at the master link . I done the putty modification with marine tex I had laying around . I made up some vegetable oil with charcoal pencil shavings and turned my chain by hand while smearing the oil with charcoal shavings on the chain . It showed the rub on the white putty until I grind it down . I also had some white ceramic paint to paint the inside of my clutch cover and done the same technique with the oil . Takes an while for paint to dry . But the word is patients on this kind of stuff .
I had to dremel the clutch cover too. I fed the chain around the sprocket without removing the clutch cover plate because the screws striped out and I could not remove it . ( I wanted to ride ! ) I got the hardware kit from sick bike parts and the striped screw remover from an friend who bought his at ; as seen on tv . I have since rode 8 miles without an jam . Fixing this problem had more to do than filing the nipples on the master link ; which I done that along with the cutch case modification . I turned the master link plate out too. One day I will cut my own chain and will never have an master link ( any new post on chain cutting without an master link subject along with tools and procedures would be an nice thread to have , but I’m hitting the search forums to see if there is an much needed road tools in an handle bar bag list. No master link may hurt you in an roadside break down . The master link was not the sole problem here ; but the nipples 'were' too far out and the plate is still more lose than I like it to be . ( seems to be wearing in but may be another jam waiting to happen on down the rode due to loose plate on master link ). This is my first build and the word so far is " modification " so thanks a lot and I will post pictures of my build on my post operation op before I bench my bike motor and do more much needed modifications. I think this was an worthy thread for an newby .