If its not one thing it is still another & another

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Jim C, Aug 2, 2010.

  1. Jim C

    Jim C New Member

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    I have just read page after page of clutch stuff and here is the deal; After all the trouble with the motor mounts, the pipe, the throttle and the rear sprocket I have this thing just about ready to go. The clutch appears to be locked up solid it will just not move. Right now the cable is disconected but I can't push the clutch rod in at all. I have a call in to the people I bought it from but have had no return call yet. This motor is brand new I don't want to take the clutch apart on a brand new motor. I am tempted to start it and see if it will free itself up. Does anyone here know of this problem and how to fix it. BTW I am not stupid even if I feel like I am. I have restored 12 Nortons 2 BMW's and a sports car. I built and raced RD 400's. I don't even want to get started on the quality issues with this kit, I just want to be able to make it go.

    Jim C.
     
  2. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    You won't be able to push that rod in with your fingers, or many times not even with a tool, it requires the leverage of the clutch arm/cable to do it.

    Install the cable with it just barely slack, or -0- freeplay in the cable and make sure you the cable stop on TIGHT. You should be able to pull the lever and the clutch will disengage. If not, remove the cover (right side, and while a buddy pulls the lever, tap around the clutch plate.

    Let us know what happens.
     
  3. Mac

    Mac New Member

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    Jim,
    Have you ran the motor yet? Might try to take the clutch cover off and tap the clutch lightly with a hammer, the center part, as your applying some clutch release(handle in) pressure, on some new motors the pucks are stuck to that outs.ide plate. If that doesn't work, you may have to take the actuating rod and ball out and lube 'em up. It is not entirely unlikely that it was put together dry or wrong. Put a little grease (a dab) on the gear before you close the clutch side. Look at "norms 2 stroke repair" thread, he has lots of Pix that'll help you. Also check the fulcrum, the vertical rod under the clutch lever, verify against the Pix on the thread for proper build up. Hope that helps, the thread shows all adjustments too.

    Mac

    Sorry bikeguy, your post wasn't there when I started!
     
  4. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    No problem, I forgot to mention lubing the rod and ball!
     
  5. Creative Engineering

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    Jim,

    Joe hit it close...

    To elaborate...you can push the clutch lever with your hands. It is stiff, prop a thumb on it and give it a good shove...the arm will move.

    These engines are manufactured, and assembled, well before the end user gets the product. The clutch pressure plate will become stuck to the clutch friction material.

    Remove the right side cover, (release the clutch), and tap the pressure plate ensuring that it is floating free from the friction material.

    There is a lightweight spring behind the pressure plate...

    http://motorbicycling.com/f30/animated-view-motorized-bicycle-clutch-assembly-8939.html

    Jim
     
  6. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    Here, re-read the quote from my original post Jim.

    But what do I know? :)
     
  7. Creative Engineering

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    I wasn't being sarcastic Joe...

    A guy that is used to quality Motorcycle stuff would not think to push hard on the clutch arm...

    We've seen it here on the forum before...guys think that thier clutches are locked up because they are stiff.

    Jim
     
    #7 Creative Engineering, Aug 2, 2010
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2010
  8. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    I know you weren't, you just misread my post.....anyhow

    Jim C, read posts #2 and 3 and you'll likely get 'er done.
     
  9. Jim C

    Jim C New Member

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    Years ago with English motorcycles when a bike has sat awhile to free the clutch we would pull in the clutch and kick it thtough a few times. As on this motor there is no kick starter and I can't pull the clutch lever in at all. I am going to tap the clutck basket as suggested. I don't want to get into the ball & plunger yet. If I can get some movement I think; with the spark plug out pull in the clutch and peddle the bike to free the plates the key word here is movement

    Jim C
     
  10. Jim C

    Jim C New Member

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    Well I can push the clutch lever arm over. I have removed the right side cover I can see the nut move a little. It takes so much perssure to move the arm that I do it with the cable disconected. It is so hard the cable would break. With the lever moved all the way in the rear wheel is not free. The clutch just will not disengage. I have several calls in to the seller Tech. support but they have not returned any calls. I just hooked up the cable and can not pull it in at all. I can move the arm and see movement ith the cover off but no free wheel action or no free peddle movement. This is a Stinger motor. So I am nowhere basicly half a day wasted. This thing is ready to go if I can just get the clutch to work.

    Jim C.
     
  11. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    Time to get out the Liquid Wrench and lube the rod and ball?
     
  12. Jim C

    Jim C New Member

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    I pulled out the short rod from the counter-shaft side and the ball, both came out easy the rod pulled with fingers the ball took a magnet both had grease on them nothing was stuck. I work tomorrow all day and into the night. So Friday I guess it will be taking the other side apart. I really hope the Kit Bike people get back to me . Although I think there is more knowledge here than there is there. Keep your thoughts and advice coming in I really need it.

    Jim C
     

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