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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by The Busted Nut, Aug 4, 2011.
So how do i do it? Im building it now and need help!
Is any of it sticking out..if so Vice Grips.
NO..Couple of options..Left handed drill bit, or ordinary drill and use easy out. REPLACE all your studs with Metric 8.8 (USS Grade 5)
I got the drill and tightened it onto the stud. Then i went in reverse. worked like a charm!
if the studs are not too screwed up, put two nuts on the stud then tighten them together super tight. give your self room from the base.
then after they are tight together. unscrew the nut closest to the base.
if you tightened the nuts together enough, it will unscrew.
most people drill & retap. better sooner than later.
i used 1/4-20. only for the reason that it is easier to get in stainless.
many will say to not use stainless because it is a little weaker than grade 5.
be careful with the front mount. there isn't much "meat" next to the stud hole.
decoherence ... Yes stainless is brittle, I find that the best all around stud will be Metric 8.8 (USS grade 5) The stock studs/nuts are soft, and the 8.8 is stronger then the cast aluminum, so don't over torque.
Hey I'm new to the forum. I just got my engine today from bikeberry. I did the same exact thing just now and it worked. I decided to get longer studs instead of drilling thru the frame. Good idea !
Longer studs might not be the solution. The mounts needs to be flush or you could take a chance of snapping them off...
Look through these pictures....
Engine Mounting pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket
it should be flush. i have to file down the water bottle holes in the frame but the motor mount looks like it'll sit there pretty flush. thinking i can use some rubber between the frame and mount to close any gaps.
Might read this link. http://motorbicycling.com/f6/rubber-not-27364.html