Hot Whizzer Parts

Hi Everyone,
I specialize in Performance parts for the new edition Whizzers [1999 to present]. I still hold most of the speed records with my Whizzer motors, including 68 MPH on a dyno, and two classes at the Dirt Drags [stock appearing & modified]in 2007. I do this as a hobby, not a business, therefore I can offer parts at a lower price [very little overhead]. I just received a long awaited order of hi-lift camshafts [20] and will weld the gear in place and degree each unit. I will include the actual degree wheel information sheet with each camshaft showing the open & close of the valves, the duration, and the lift of each camshaft. Because of the lift, mushroom lifters must be used to avoid "cutting" the camshaft lobe, therefore I will offer this as a kit. The kit will contain the camshaft, special mushroom lifters, and a #2217 tappet cover gasket. The average price of hi-lift camshafts is $150.00, the mushroom lifters retail from $60.00 to $105.00, and the gasket is $1.80. I will offer the entire kit for $150.00 [plus shipping]. If you have a NE or SE motor then this camshaft isn't for you because those motors already have a hi-lift camshaft and the difference isn't worth the money, but if you don't have mushroom lifters, you should install a set for increased camshaft durability, and a slight improvement in performance [$50.00 set]. For some reason, and I don't know why, this camshaft lowers the operating tempature of the earlier WC-1 motor while adding a lot of extra power. For anyone that has upgraded the WC-1 motor using the NE cylinder kit, this camshaft kit is the "missing link"
to make your motor a real "fire breather". I only have a small quanity, and waited over a year to obtain these, so if interested, contact me soon.
Whizzer OuterBanks,
Quenton
 

Norman

LORD VADER Moderator
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Jan 16, 2008
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You ever checked out a company called Dyno Cams? they grind cams and might be able to help you out so you don't run out ever. They make cams for small engines to your specs. mild to wild. They are in the south I could give you the address if you want it. I used them for my go kart alcohol racing cams.
 
Hi Norman, I wasted a lot of my time and money trying to work with Dyno Cams. I am located in North Carolina, and so is Dyno Cams, I made many calls and several [expensive] trips to discuss Whizzer camshafts with them. I was told by them that the project wasn't big enough to warrant their attention, because I wanted to purchase less than 100 on my first order. After talking to several other camshaft companies, I was told Dyno Cams had taken on a NASCAR project, expanded, and had commited all the staff to work on the new project. When I was there it was clear that the company had just increased thier floor space. I made the mistake of thinking a company that made it's mark in the industry by making camshafts for small motors [Briggs & Stratten, etc] would be ideal to produce a very similar product. The Whizzer camshaft looks exactly like a B & S shaft only a little smaller. However I was able to connect with another well known camshaft company and the owner gave me a guided tour and has done several re-grinds for me, but are far too radical for street use. The company is called Precision Cams and is located in Wilmington, NC. Because of the clearance of the camshaft lobes and the crankshaft throws, it is necessary to reduce the base circle in order to get the lift above .212".
Have fun,
Quenton
 
If the question is "I have a new edition Whizzer, and want to know which motor I have?", then I can help.

A quick simple glance can identify the motor series in seconds. If the head is the same width as the cylinder and has a Flange threaded onto the intake port, it is a WC-1. If the cylinder is much wider than the head and the carburetor is attached directly [may have an aluminum extension on later motors] to the cylinder via studs, then it is an NE [or rare SE] motor.

have fun,
 

Egor

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Jan 30, 2008
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Quenton I have a NE5 with only a hundred or so miles on it. The engine now will only run for a few minutes and then the ignition starts to fail. It begins by starting to act like it is running out of fuel, I have checked by shutting off the fuel then opening the drain on the carb, it runs for a long time. If I start applying choke I can get a little more run out of it but not much. At last the thing starts to pop out the carb and exhaust, the big indicator (ignition). If I let the bike stand for a few minutes if will start but just for a minute. I tried to use chill for electrical components but it did not seem to make a difference which part I cooled down. I was wondering if you would have an idea what part fails the most, the module or the proximity censer, I have never seen a coil bad but that could also be the culprit. If I were dealing with an old points system I would look at the condenser, any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave
 
Hi Dave,

Sorry for the delayed answer, but just been covered up with work.

The electrics on the new edition Whizzers haven't been much of a problem. I have replaced several coils, but mostly because of the plug wire, as some have managed to pull the wire from the coil. I have also replaced several alternator coils [under the flywheel] because the worked loose and hit the spinning flywheel.

I currently have a bad CDI and it caused the alternator coils to open, but is the only CDI issue in over 7 years of working on the new edition motors.

Although your problems appear to be electronic, I would suggest running a compression check with a completely cold motor and then again when the motor started "acting up".

I recently worked on a motor that they had shortened the intake port tube, and when the motor got hot air leaked from the center rear headbolt hole. it was a difficult issue to find, but the sparkplug readings were very lean and indicated a leak when the motor was run for a short time.

Two conditions must always be present for the ignition to work, first one side of the coil must be at ground, secondaly the green wire in the CDI plug MUST NOT BE GROUNDED. When the ignition switch or "run" switch on the right handle bar are in the on position the short is removed from the green wire. When the ignition switch or the "run" switch are in the Off position it shorts the green wire to ground to disable the ignition. If in doubt about the "run" switch, simply unplug it.



Have fun,
 
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Egor

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Jan 30, 2008
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Thanks Quenton - I will look into your Idea's. The fact that it still runs is puzzling, I would think by now it would have just failed. It starts on first push through every time (on a cold engine) It will start when warm if you let it stand for a few minutes, but it will only run for about 30 seconds. As it heat soaks it gets worse and then will not start at all. Thanks have fun, Dave
 

ChopperDave

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Jul 10, 2010
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Thanks Quenton - I will look into your Idea's. The fact that it still runs is puzzling, I would think by now it would have just failed. It starts on first push through every time (on a cold engine) It will start when warm if you let it stand for a few minutes, but it will only run for about 30 seconds. As it heat soaks it gets worse and then will not start at all. Thanks have fun, Dave
Sounds almost like a blocked fuel vent, have you had it happen with the gas cap off?
 

Egor

New Member
Jan 30, 2008
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I tried with the cap off. This thing is weird I had it out again the other day and I kept fooling with the thing, and listen to this. I could keep it running wide open and I think it would go on forever, (if I had enough room). Each time I would slow down it would act like weak ignition, I could feather the throttle and keep fettling along and then it would finely take a handful and take off. I guess it could be weak coils under the flywheel, and with the extra spin would make enough juice! Oh well, have fun, Dave
 
Hi Dave,

Sure wish you had an extra carburetor to try. I had a similar issue with a 22 MM carburetor, and found it to be two problems. The mounting flange was warped and when hot a small amount of air leaked between the aluminum manifold and the carburetor. I also found some of the passages to be slightly blocked [soaked in cleaner for 2 days].

It would easily start run average until hot, then resist accepting gas at low RPMs. If the motor was slowly advanced to higher RPMs it would continue to run unless the throttle was varied a lot.


Have fun,
 

Egor

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Jan 30, 2008
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Quenton I do have my bike, but it is at Utah house. I could bring the carb home next time, I should be there in a few weeks. The other thing is that usually when it leans out you can fool with the choke and keep it going. If I try using the choke it puts the fire out all the way. The bike used to run fine and it just started doing this and little by little got worse till now you only get a few minutes riding. Have fun, Dave
 
Hi Egor,

If you can remove the carburetor and send it to me, I can test on a working motor. It wouldn't take long to see where the problem is. If you want to pay shippping both ways, I will test for free. If I find a problem we can talk about additional cost to cure problem if needed.

Have fun,
 

Egor

New Member
Jan 30, 2008
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Hurricane Utah
Thanks for the offer, ill see what I can do. I have a bunch of Honda's I think it would fit on a 125 Ill look. Honda messed with the flange so that there carb would only fit there bikes. I also have a drawer full of carbs, ill check those. Thanks again for the idea's. Have fun