Hey everyone!

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by FoCoMoTo, Apr 23, 2013.

  1. FoCoMoTo

    FoCoMoTo New Member

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    First of all, this forum freaking rocks. Before even joining i've been able to get to the bottom of several problems and questions i've had. For now my bike is running great. I'm not quite through my 2nd gallon of fuel yet, so i'm running 24:1 and as far as my plug looks it's about just right for now. I'll probably try to go more lean after this gallon. I've been topping out at about 22mph. I have had a couple times where all of the sudden the compression (or something) fell into place and the rpm's dropped while going the same speed and i all of the sudden moved up to 26-27mph but as soon as i'd slow down, i'd top back out at 22. I'm assuming everything will seal and fall into place over time.

    I got the 66cc Flying Horse engine from bikeberry (i won't go through them again, but i'm up and running now so its all good). I decided to upgrade to the nt speed carb with the red filter cap, which i painted black, just because. lol. i also put an extension on the intake to add a little low end power, and so i could fit it on my bike. I'm using the stock crappy tensioner but i drilled a hole through the grip and the frame and put a bolt through it so it doesn't move. I'm still thinking I may mod it and add a spring to it sits tighter after starting up. hmmm, what else? I made my own gaskets on everything except the head gasket and intake gasket, i just put a light layer of high-temp permatex (red) on those toreenforce them and to make up for the imperfections on how the engine was cut. I know the red stuff is 'not to be mixed with gas' but i read a couple places that people have had some luck with it staying in tact on a two stroke because it's not 100% gas, time will tell if that's true. I switched out the plug for a BH6S, which is much better then the stock plug. i cut and rethreaded the plug cable. i got rid of the little wire clamps and twisted, soldered and heat shrinked the cdi to mag wires. I put a few layers of soundproofing material around the frame where the engine mounts, which reduced that butt-liquifying, hand-numbing vibration by probably 70-80%. One of the best things i've done so far. AND I painted my entire bike and gas tank satin black, because its awesome. lol

    Let me know what you think! I'm looking forward to joining you all the endless pursuit for MORE POWER!!

    Peace,

    FoCoMoTo

    xct2
     

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  2. Toadmund

    Toadmund New Member

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    Looks like you just fit your engine in as well, as far as I'm concerned it looks more 'motorcycely' with the tight fit.
    As far as the chain tensioner, a piece of innertube works great to keep that thing from moving, and from personal experience a spring loaded tensioner is more trouble than it's worth, the chain slackens on start up and the drive gear housing 'eats it', real fun getting the chain out of there!
     
  3. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Welcome to the forum. Always good to see more Colorado riders join. There are a bunch of us here. We're glad you've come in out of the cold and joined our community.

    One thing that concerns me is your use of "soundproofing material" in the engine mounts. I don't know what you're using but you should be aware that any resilient material used in the mounts will not eliminate the engine vibrations but only transfer them to parts that will eventually fail. Engine mounting fasteners are usually the first to go but the mounts themselves can break as well as bike frame tubes. The engine needs to be mounted as solidly to the frame as you can make it. Metal to metal with no gaps or soft material between. Not just my opinion but a fact agreed upon by most experienced builders.

    Good luck and maybe you can join the Denver Area Riders, D-A-R, for a run this spring or summer...if spring and summer ever gets here.

    Tom
     
  4. Wickedest1

    Wickedest1 Member

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    Welcome to the forum...the tensioner can be a nuisance...theres many tricks to making it a feasible option, but beware it can cause issues...welding is a great option if you can, but my advice would be to get rid of it, if you can and go straight chain...and from ur pic it definitely looks like you could stand to lose a link or two...goods luck and as 2door said, theres lots of denver guys, and theyre mostly great builders
     
  5. Kioshk

    Kioshk Active Member

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    Is your bike a Genesis Two Nine? The chainstay on those is oval and the tensioner won't move if tightened properly.
     
  6. FoCoMoTo

    FoCoMoTo New Member

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    Hey guys! Thanks for the welcome! Thanks for the tips on the tensioner, i just hooked one up last night, i wish i would have hopped on and read these posts first. we'll see how it holds up. I'll just have to keep a close eye on it, the stock tensioner is still fully in tact in case i need to drop the spring. Going to a straight chain would be swee too as long as i could be sure the chain wasn't going to fall off and destroy my spokes while going 30mph like i've seen a few pics of. 2door: I did read a couple of those post saying that it had to be metal on metal, I decided to give it a shot anyways because if i had to ride it with as much vibration as there was pre-soundproofing, I'd honestly probably get rid of it. I did however tighten the motor down as much as possible by hand and without stripping out the nut and bolt. the material is actually really tough too, its not metal but its far tougher then foam or other rubber. I'll for sure keep an eye on it and look for other solutions though. I appreciate the tip! And that Denver area riders group sounds fun! so people just get together for a joy ride?? it'd be super fun to see some other builds too and meet some of the experts in person! Kioshk: The bike is a Roadmaster Granite Peak from walmart. It was the smallest frame i could fit the engine on. I'm not worried about the whole tensioner moving on the frame, just the wheel moving down from the initial torque of starting the engine and then the chain bouncing all over and possibly falling off. Thanks though! :)
     
  7. Toadmund

    Toadmund New Member

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    Where's your fuel filter?
     
  8. FoCoMoTo

    FoCoMoTo New Member

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    the only one that came with the kit was the one that screws into the petcock and goes into the tank (one of the many reasons i have not been impressed by bikeberry). I'm going to get a better one with this next check, along with a new spark plug wire and a few other small things i've been putting off because i wanted to get bigger more fun upgrades. lol
     
  9. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Actually the little screw in filter that comes with the kit is not a bad item. It will keep dirt and rust particles out of the petcock and carburetor but the problem is with the tank itself. I've yet to see one that was perfectly clean out of the box. Almost without exception they are rusty inside. We always suggest the tanks be cleaned before installation or putting fuel in them.

    Bee-bees work well as will small pea gravel or course sand. There are checmical cleaners available too, but whatever you choose the tank needs to be clean and flushed with hot water and allowed to dry. Compressed air is a valuable tool for this and many other projects.

    An in-line filter is always a good choice either in addition to the in-tank filter or in conjunction with it. Clean fuel is essential for a trouble free carburetor on any application. Use one or both but never run without a fuel filter.

    Tom
     
  10. FoCoMoTo

    FoCoMoTo New Member

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    Interesting, Thanks! looks like i got a little project for the weekend! :)
     
  11. LR Jerry

    LR Jerry Active Member

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    BikeBerry isn't so much the problem. It's the kits but you're in the right place to know how to fix these problems. There's two main building philosophies buy a high quality kit or a cheap kit then upgrade it.
     

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