Going up a hill with ease?

D

dumpstercrusher

New Member
Is there a way to increase performance going up a hill after riding for 20-30 mins? not looking into the sbp shift kit just yet. so far the only bolt on i have is a low profile intake and i have a expansion chamber exhaust comin in a week or so. Also is it normal that when ur riding up the hill and give full throttle to get up the hill after 20-30 mins of riding it sounds like the motor is knocking hard core compared to when it is slightly warm? Is it because the motor is hot?
 
dumpstercrusher said:
Is there a way to increase performance going up a hill after riding for 20-30 mins? not looking into the sbp shift kit just yet. so far the only bolt on i have is a low profile intake and i have a expansion chamber exhaust comin in a week or so. Also is it normal that when ur riding up the hill and give full throttle to get up the hill after 20-30 mins of riding it sounds like the motor is knocking hard core compared to when it is slightly warm? Is it because the motor is hot?
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Performance shouldn't change that drastically unless you're riding through Death Valley in August. I've gone 30 of 40 miles straight over a 2 hour period and noticed no change in performance, regardless of terrain, on my 49cc Huasheng.

How much do you weigh and what PSI are you running in your tires?
 
miked826 said:
Performance shouldn't change that drastically unless you're riding through Death Valley in August. I've gone 30 of 40 miles straight over a 2 hour period and noticed no change in performance, regardless of terrain, on my 49cc Huasheng.

How much do you weigh and what PSI are you running in your tires?
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Maybe the motor is still breaking in then. I weigh 191 current but still droppin weight. i think i have either 55 or 60 psi in them. i would of fill them up more but was too excited the first day i put the motor together to give my tire psi a second thought
 
Wait till the engine is broken in. The chinagirls keep getting better the first 200-300 miles or so.
 
yes it is overheating because the stock ignition timing is too advanced. and no, you cant change the overall timing without screwing up low rpm power.
 
I think your engine is overheating because there is tremendous stress from going uphill AND for 20-30 minutes. Too many unknown variables. Gear ratio, how much weight you're pushing uphill, temperature, octane rating, tire pressure, hill grade, driver attitude.

From what you and many others share, you're abusing the China Girl and have unreasonable expectations. Your ENGINE needs the shift kit to keep from being destroyed by the rider.

No offense meant. Just my opinion.
 
48ccbiker said:
yes it is overheating because the stock ignition timing is too advanced. and no, you cant change the overall timing without screwing up low rpm power.
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Give me a break! If the stock ignition is so bad why do most racers use it instead of an overpriced placebo. Instead of pushing parts and propoganda from another, questionable source try offering some sound technical advice/help.
 
running 32:1 right now. I think it got better because im adding more miles to the motor. I sealed all leaks n im hoping to test it out tomorrow to see if it still has the hill climbing issue
 
Richening the mixture a bit should also help with heat problems. It's dangerous to jet these ht's for max power due to the dubious "quality" of the materials they make them out of.
One of the reasons my Pig has been so bulletproof is due to leaving it a bit rich for better lubrication.
Mine pulls clean under throttle and four-strokes a bit when cruising.
More oil+higher gear=less rpm and longer engine life.
 
If you want to leave the motor stock, then you're limited to two choices for hill climbing power (short of losing more weight, though you're lighter than me). Get a bigger sprocket (48T if you're slightly lacking, 54T if you almost stall quickly), but you'll lose out on top speed and use more gas for cruising around [higher RPM], or get a shift kit (I avoid the shift kit honestly, it costs more than the motor itself, but the gearing range would help a stock motor immensely). However if you're willing to modify, all you need is a dremel and some sandpaper to get some extra juice ;)
 
mew905 said:
If you want to leave the motor stock, then you're limited to two choices for hill climbing power (short of losing more weight, though you're lighter than me). Get a bigger sprocket (48T if you're slightly lacking, 54T if you almost stall quickly), but you'll lose out on top speed and use more gas for cruising around [higher RPM], or get a shift kit (I avoid the shift kit honestly, it costs more than the motor itself, but the gearing range would help a stock motor immensely). However if you're willing to modify, all you need is a dremel and some sandpaper to get some extra juice ;)
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im into modifications lol got an expasion chamber exhaust on the way so im hopin that makes a difference. would port the manifold n exhaust but don feel like buying the tools lol like the top end so only option is shift kit but not jus yet
 
U may have messed up the break in that sounds like my motor it slowly continued getting worse till I replaced the jug piston and rings from a old motor that I broke a bolt in now it works great I went to fast on break in
 
mew905 said:
If you want to leave the motor stock, then you're limited to two choices for hill climbing power (short of losing more weight, though you're lighter than me). Get a bigger sprocket (48T if you're slightly lacking, 54T if you almost stall quickly), but you'll lose out on top speed and use more gas for cruising around [higher RPM], or get a shift kit (I avoid the shift kit honestly, it costs more than the motor itself, but the gearing range would help a stock motor immensely). However if you're willing to modify, all you need is a dremel and some sandpaper to get some extra juice ;)
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...for what it does for you so what if the shift kit cost's more money than the motor?

...it's like buying a $2.00 pair of shoes and spending $8.00 on laces, ...if the shoes fit really nice and you like the way they look, who cares that the laces cost more than the shoes?

...these bikes are like a cross between a tool and a toy and the money i spend on tools i consider an investment and the money i spend on toys is for my enjoyment so for me it isn't about the cost of individual parts that's important it's how much fun do i get when i play with my toy.

...i don't have a shift kit yet but it's on the list, unfortunately my bike is a single speed beach cruiser so i can't add the shift kit until i'm ready to add a different, multi-speed hub, ...so for me the shift kit is gonna be an expensive upgrade, well over what i spent on the motor.

...but it WILL get done, i'm really getting tired of pedaling off the line, lol.

anyway, that's just my take on this whole topic.

peace, bozo
 
Put an expansion chamber exhaust on, ~$80, that'll give you some more power, otherwise gears baby, gears change everything ;-}
 
The only reason I still don't have a shift kit is because I'm too cheap to spend twice the entire kit cost. I really like a 36 tooth gear though...calms things down a LOT at cruising speed.
 
Hi, for wot its worth, the stock CDI isnt giving any problem at all when ur going up hills, unless its only a slight grade or u have a large diameter rear sprocket & so r getting up to hi rpm while going up the hill. The more likely scenario with hills is that ur motor is in the mid or lo rpm range & the stock CDI is fine there. It doesnt have a hi rpm retard which 2 strokes require for optimum performance, but this has no effect on lo & mid rpm performance. Cheers
 
Use my 36T up some very steep grades all the time. Mount Lemmon which has an average of 3.6% grade with a max of 14.9% grade and I can average 18 to 22mph on the entire 25-30 mile road to the top.
 
2 reasons I don't have a shift kit.
1)money
2)maintenance, I want to ride my bicycle, I want to ride my bike; not always fiddling with it.

These motors like to climb hills at WOT.
 
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