Friction Drive In The Rain

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Smallwheels, May 27, 2010.

  1. Smallwheels

    Smallwheels New Member

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    I've had my friction drive attached to my older motor for three days. On two of those days there has been rain or wet pavement. This morning I used it to go to work. Since I knew the drive roller wouldn't get a good grip I left my home early. I still used the friction drive but I just used very little throttle. My speed was just about the same as if I were pedaling the bicycle without a motor kit.

    An interesting thing about this days trip was it used just as much fuel as if I were going full speed.

    Friction drive kits can be used in the rain if the roller is clamped against the wheel tighter and if the rider is willing to go much slower. I got to work on time and without being sweaty because I used the moped.

    I have a good ear for sound and can tell when the drive roller slips. To prevent this I always pedal at starts and on hills and very gradually apply more gas. So far its working OK.

    There is more rain forecast every day until Monday. This is very unusual for the very dry state of Montana. Maybe this is the universes way of telling me to take it easy with the friction drive kit.

    Anybody here have experience using a Staton-Inc. friction drive kit? What did you think of it and did you use it in the rain too?

    Smallwheels
     
    #1 Smallwheels, May 27, 2010
    Last edited: May 29, 2010
  2. dag_29307

    dag_29307 New Member

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    You sir are experiencing the exact reason I didn't get a friction drive motor. The only thing I can think that might help. Can you put something on the friction roller? like maybe a hand grip with some "tread" that might help give you some traction. Other than that I am lost.
     
  3. Oysterville

    Oysterville New Member

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    While I don't have a Stanton, I have been riding my Titan around in the rain (darned coastal Spring weather) for the last couple of weeks and with more pressure on the tire and being careful with the throttle I'm not seeing any speed loss (I'm averaging about 25mph or so).

    FWIW
     
  4. Smallwheels

    Smallwheels New Member

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    Oysterville what size drive roller do you have? Do you have hills or high winds?

    I would go with a much bigger roller than the one inch if I had a more powerful motor. My Tanaka PF 3300 has 1.6 h.p. but that is at high rpm. At low revs it is much less. If I don't pedal (even on flat surfaces) the roller will slip. So I pedal most of the ride. If there are some spots that have just a damp road I can stop pedaling. Even with a damp road my speed must stay slow because the roller will slip with more throttle.

    If the rain is falling while I'm riding the bicycle must be pedaled constantly or the roller will slip. In that case it is truly just an assist device instead of a motor propelled vehicle.

    In another thread I found, the recommendation was to get plenty of JB Weld liquid and put it onto the roller with fine art grade sand in four coats. The caveat was that it will wear out a tire quickly.

    This is an interesting suggestion. As of now the kit is too new to me to start experimenting. This is my primary means to get to work. I'm car free and have been for a while. The simplicity and lack of things to break on a friction drive are what made me switch away from my Golden Eagle kit that destroyed my wheel regularly.

    I'm wondering how it will do in snow. Anybody ride on icy roads with snow using a friction kit? My original plan was to buy a friction kit as a stop gap measure to replace the Golden Eagle kit. Later I would buy a chain drive kit when I have more money. If a friction kit can work in winter then I might not bother to switch to a chain drive kit. I don't mind traveling at or less than 20 mph on snow. Even with my other kit in winter using my studded tires I wouldn't go much more than 20 mph.

    Smallwheels
     
    #4 Smallwheels, May 29, 2010
    Last edited: May 29, 2010
  5. Oysterville

    Oysterville New Member

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    The kit I have is the BMP kit that is sold at thatsdax.com. I'm not for certain what the roller size is, but I'd guess that it's an inch and a quarter. I can measure when I get a moment in the next couple of days.

    The terrain where I live is pretty flat, so not much in the way of hills. Maybe the biggest is 50' high, at most. The vast majority of my riding around here consists of a lot of flat roads which are frequently rainy and windy (15-30mph winds). Most of my riding is North-South, and with the winds usually coming anywhere from NW to SW, there's always a chance for some head wind action.
     
  6. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    *shuffles through drawers* dang I think I threw my old grips out I was about to vroom on them" lol
    rmfladnut
     
  7. Ludwig II

    Ludwig II Well-Known Member

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    Some of the older European FD engines used a reduction drive and a larger diameter roller to give better grip. You probably can't fit one with the engines you have though.

    I have wondered whether an idler roller, down towards the road surface at the rear of the wheel, lightly pressing on the tyre would spin enough water off it to make a difference. It's just a thought.
     
  8. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    Well my prototype is alsmost ready for naming, also it has driven on the previous build which consisted of steel cast, wood, qbd hardened plastic material.

    Less drilling, more durable con was arm angle.

    My recent build with aluminium steel and tension springs only works in dry weather conditions. (more drilling less legal chancing.) I find that once the pegs come in I will be set.
     
    #8 TheSignGuy, Jan 5, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2015
  9. Ludwig II

    Ludwig II Well-Known Member

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    Something else I thought of. A rubber drive belt like a tank track, running along a large arc of the tyre. I'm in Britain, and the weather is sufficiently unpredictable that it's not realistic to go FD. This is a pity, as it appeals to the simplistic barbarian in me.
     
  10. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    .wee.
    Eventually if I can cone across a burnt out go kart I will probqbly build belt friction system centrifical pullies and possiably a wider fork.
     
  11. cannonball2

    cannonball2 Active Member

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    Anybody try the Rustolem " Never Wet" on the tire and roller? Might cause slippage in itself. Never tried any. Hype is pretty impressive. Thought about doing my boats hull. Figured it would really fly as its theoretically not in the water-lol.
     
  12. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    Hey cannon ball ever use wally world or freddy meyer tirees before? I blew my knobby on bumb junk. sorry for the typos I am blind until the 26th.
     
    #12 TheSignGuy, Jan 14, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2015
  13. cannonball2

    cannonball2 Active Member

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    What the......??????
     
  14. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    rechecl the quote sorry typos blind a bit.
     
  15. cannonball2

    cannonball2 Active Member

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    OK, I can understand that, starting to get there myself.
     
  16. Ludwig II

    Ludwig II Well-Known Member

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    There's nothing wrong with my eyesight. My arms are too short to count change, however.
     
  17. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    xD well ladies and gentalmen this is why when your glasses break you don't walk around for one 3 months without them.
     
  18. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    cannot wait til tomarrow getting new tires for the proper friction drive setup no more snapped bolts.
     
  19. u2smile

    u2smile New Member

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    Hi air up your tires, make sure to use a semi smooth tire tread is not a benifit, two check your roller if it is smooth, then replace it or resurface it jb or epoxcy with sand mixture.
    I had one of the china girls....never agan. I passed on the FD at first. BUT after 4 years it is great so simple, and cheap, as for the rain use a multi speed bike, and you pedal as normal for a bike ride... but you go 27 mph. Staton makes a good kit although I loath the maker. They have a toothed roller that has held up as the burled ones wore down fast.
    Treaded roller smooth tire, good tire psi, easy throttle, aid the engine and thank god when it does break down you can left it up and pedal home..
     
  20. u2smile

    u2smile New Member

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    I had been thinking of a way to scrape off the water before it gets to the roller, sponge pressed to the tire, squiggy? Ah I found if you will put some foam rubber in the open gap in the mounting to the channel ,it keeps the water from being shot up your bum
     

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