fixie build new got to try it

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by joelogger2, Nov 28, 2013.

  1. joelogger2

    joelogger2 New Member

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    brnoti have a fixie thrusher road bike coolest build ever highly recommended for all of you bike nuts i have a 66cc strider motor with freds head sbp expansion chamber stihl chainsaw carb modifide to work with a reed manifold. jaguar ignition and a whole set of different sets of gears for a fixie bike anywhere from 18 tooth rear sproket to 38 tooth that threads onto the hub its perfect. just now starting the build will keep this thread open for picts and discussion be happy to answer any questions.

    ps google fixie bikes and get one might solve the problem of the meshed spokes gear

    dance1
     
  2. il_10

    il_10 New Member

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    They appear to be flip-flop hubs, but wouldn't the threading on the engine drive side be backwards? If it's a right hand thread, I would think the engine would just pull the gear off if it's not on a freewheel, and if it was it would just spin freely. I don't have any experience with their wheels, but that would make sense to me.
     
  3. rogergendron1

    rogergendron1 New Member

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    fixi bikes make absurdly fast motor bikes ! even though they are single speed, with a 40 t rear and 700c tires fixie bikes fly under power ! after my beach cruiser is done with its trike conversion i plan on doing a 29in moutain bike or a 700c fixy bike

    even a cheap one will go like an angry ape ! even the cheap 99$ fixie from wal mart or sports athaurity is light enough and built well enough to handle higher speeds than a typical mountain bike
     
  4. LR Jerry

    LR Jerry Active Member

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    The fixie's I've seen with a flip flop hub have a quick release on the rear wheel. One side is a fixed gear the other side is a single speed freewheel. Staton Inc makes a hub with right hand treads on the right and left hand treads on the left. This looks like a flip flop but isn't. It's made to put a sprocket on the left side. Running a true fixed gear would be very dangerous in that the peddles move whenever the bike is moving. So it sounds more like you're running is a single speed freewheel.
     
  5. il_10

    il_10 New Member

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    The Staton sounds like a nice way to go. Drop it on and you've got a solid, trued freewheel chain drive. You'd need the left pitch freewheel and a sprocket, but it looks like they've got those too.

    http://www.staton-inc.com/store/pro...HAND_thread_freewheel_sprag_clutch-967-0.html

    http://www.staton-inc.com/store/products/415_A_42_Tooth_2_11_ID_with_Five_Drilled_holes-1765-0.html

    But, if you're going to stick with the Fixie, and it is a flip-flop hub like I'm thinking, you're going to need it to be fixed on the drive side. A regular freewheel on the left would be spinning the wrong way. Then you've just got the issue of it torquing itself off the threads, which would ruin your day pretty quick at any speed. I'm not sure what the best way to fix that would be. A couple of welds would be fine, but the whole idea here is quickly interchangeable drive gears... that Staton hub is sounding nicer and nicer for a build like this. Keep us posted, it'll be interesting to see how this build turns out!
     
  6. curtisfox

    curtisfox Well-Known Member

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    Welcome aboard
    I have to watch this to see what you do ..............Curt
     
  7. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    Best wishes on the fixie build and welcome to this great community joelogger2, I hwve a fixe bike I plan to put and engine on myself in the future.

    Map
    .wee.
     
  8. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

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    Boygoesfast has sold those freewheels for motor sprocket for years- but if you do that, you have to have a pull start- the pull start adds an inch or more and then you need wider cranks to clear the pull start assembly. You'll also lose then the pedal start, that I use aLL THE TIME out on the road, because I'm forever coasting down from speed with the motor killled.

    Anyway- fixie flip flop wheels ARE good motor wheels, because the motor sprock generally fits on right over the diameter of the hub once the fixed sprocket is removed- they can be then mounted with a rag joint and the spacing is usually good-

    I've been using flip/flop hubs with LARGE FLANGE Smooth sided hubs, because then you can drill the sides of the hubs and bolt a motor sprok directly to the hub- an alloy hub, titanium bolts and an alloy motor sprocket make perhaps the lightest assembly possible-

    throw on a 415 Trike chain at half the weight, and no tensioner, and you've eliminated a GREAT BIG BUNCH of original kit weight

    the thruster frame may be hard to lose the tensioner though, because it probably will have chain stay frame clearance issues without one. I'd still like to build a classic diamond road frame with that set-up and a small plastic tank to lose all the tank and cap weight- but I'd definitely use a 50 cc and not 66. The tank will be in the way of much normal peddling on a Thruster too.

    My lightest bike now -700C wheels with 32mm tires on a modern lighter Huffy cruiser frame with all alloy acruments- bars, stem cranks- weighs in at about 47 pounds unloaded.

    I'd like to build a light bike and think I could get it down to just over 40 lbs, using the lightest stuff and a 50 cc motor- but probably NOT going to happen even when I have an old Atala frame and everything else. Too old- tired of mechanical work, and it agitates my arthritis, and gotta play my musical instruments while I still can!
     

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