first build still giving me ****! (long read)

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by young grease monkey, Jan 5, 2012.

  1. young grease monkey

    young grease monkey New Member

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    i am still riding my first build i made during the summer. it has given me h e l l , but i have given it a good beating too. i have a gt5 with cns carb from gasbike, they had the lowest prices. first thing to go wrong was the head bolts pulled out of the engine and ruined the threads on the first long ride i took. must have been over tightened at the factory and the heat from a long ride weaked it enough to thread failure. so i tried to contact gasbike. near impossible. the # and email on the site doesn't pick up, you never talk to a live person.

    so i make a youtube vid explaining my problem and a guy responded that he had the same problem, and gave me the # for one of the guys at customer service. i called and they didn't pick up for a while but finally got to em, and i sent back the bottom end and piston cuz i couldn't get it off. so i got a new engine minus the head and cylinder! put it together, and i can't find the exhaust pipe! mom must have thrown it out cuz she thinks half my stuff is junk. so i do a little research and decide to get the sbp pipe. put it on, and now my bike runs lean to the point it barley runs. i try everything with the carb, but still too lean. my solution was to get small sewing needle and use the end with the loop as a drill bit. i chucked the main jet in my drill, and go at it. cleaned it up, and put it in the bike. runs just a little rich during warm weather now, but better than lean. in the winter now it runs perfect.

    well, tinkering me decides that because i'm out of money and my gas tank is near empty, i put some 20% nitromethane glow fuel in the tank, about an equal ratio to gas. it ran rough and idled up and down, and ran really weird i don't know how to describe. but it had tons of power so i kept running it. and it was backfiring at ton so it was jerking on the chain at low rpm. this eventually worked the chain tensioner loose and when i made a speed run past one of those radar things on the roadside, the fastest run ever at 35mph, it fell off and i lost it. then came a slew of bad "prototypes" for a chain tensioner because i don't have a credit car to order one and i was too impatient anyway. none worked well. so then just today i had the idea to move the engine forward using washers behind the mounting bracket block thing. it did the trick! so i tinkered with the carb to get it right, and i did. took it for a ride down some bumpy ally ways and got to a baseball field that is soaked and had very deep mud, so i thought it would be fun to ride in it. that is when the rear mounting bolts broke because i over tightened or something. the chain got caught in the front sprocket because the engine shifted position, and i had to drag the back tire all the way home 4 blocks away. just ordered new threaded rod and will pick it up tomorrow! and that is my motorbike story! hope you liked it.
     
    #1 young grease monkey, Jan 5, 2012
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2012
  2. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    Quite a story! At least you are having fun with it in between all the repairs.
     
  3. DaveC

    DaveC Member

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    You have unfortunately discovered that the holes in the block are not tapped to the bottom, you have maybe half of the possible threaded depth you should have. I know it might be out of the budget but a metric tap set from Harbor Freight is $12. All of the stud holes need to be tapped to the bottom. I think the Chinese do that to cut production costs.kick2
     
  4. thegnu

    thegnu New Member

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    look at the bright side when you get it right you will have a fantastic knowledge of how to fix it an others . , oh yeah welcome .
     
  5. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

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    I really wished every noob would read this link below. Unfortunately people buy these engines and after they have problems they jump on the forum. We preach about stickies and the need to read them. We have learned from experience what can and what will go wrong with these cheap Chinese engines. Just doing a search will bring up a post or two of mine and others. I had a guy call me (not a member) and was having problems with his build (got his running), so I know it's out there. Had you come across this a lot of your problems could be alleviated. Sorry for your bad experience, but MAYBE others will take the recommendations, although it's too late for you at this point on your original engine.

    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1GcesQihc7-mm3hJGf7UPiqOaRXZ8ekUT99QUZq2qXXE/edit

    As far as the engine shifting, I made this mod to keep that from happening.
    [​IMG]


    Looking back, here is your problem,.....
     
    #5 Al.Fisherman, Jan 6, 2012
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2012
  6. thegnu

    thegnu New Member

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    As far as the engine shifting, I made this mod to keep that from happening.
    Nice simple fix Al .
     
  7. young grease monkey

    young grease monkey New Member

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    :-||i can't quite see what is going on in that pic, fisherman. where is the bracket mounted to on the engine? i will see if i can stop by hf after i pick up my threaded rod. never been there, should be fun!
     
  8. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

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    That picture is a shot down on the engine. The bracket goes between the inside of the clutch housing and rests against the down tube. The chain you see is on the peddle crank side. Did you read the description with the photo? Maybe I need to add a photo from the side.
     
  9. young grease monkey

    young grease monkey New Member

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    ok, now understand the picture. i might try that, thanks! i couldn't find the place that i bought the rod from in the jumble of overpasses and side roads, so i will take a gps tomorrow and pick it up. but i did go to harbor freight and get a screw extractor, metric tap and die set, and a 29 piece drill set for 34 bucks. and point taken fisherman, but at least i'm not one of those pesky noobs that asks questions that could easily be answered by the search bar. and i'm quite mechanically competent.

    one more thing- the screw remover didn't work. the bolt ends are a few mm inside the hole. how can i remove them without a welder?
     
    #9 young grease monkey, Jan 6, 2012
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2012
  10. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    Try a left hand drill bit. They are designed to turn backwards from a normal drill bit and if you get lucky as it is cutting the hole it will grip the broken stud and spin it out.
    Perhaps 3 out of 5 times they do the trick for me.
    Left Hand Drill Bit - Harbor Freight Tools

    I usually do not recommend Harbor Freight drill bits, but I don't know how to recommend to you how to get the Snap-On bits that I use. They came from a Snap-On truck.

    After typing all that out I decided to do a search. You might be able to buy from them on line, I don't know as I have never tried myself. The quality is absolutely top notch if you can bear the price difference between Harbor Freight and Snap-On.
    DBLS105A, Set, Drill Bit, Left Hand, High Speed Steel, 5 Bits
     
  11. young grease monkey

    young grease monkey New Member

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    thanks, but it turns out the screw remover did work, i didn't realize you must first drill a hole! silly me...
    i don't think i will buy any snap-on tools until i have a really good job. harbor freight offers some really good value tools, snap-on is very overpriced. the auto shop in my school has a lot of snap on tools. they are probably the best, but accessories are limited to snap-on brand and so are overpriced.
     

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