Few dumb questions

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by haste, May 3, 2011.

  1. haste

    haste New Member

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    Ok. Everything is installed and ready.. Few dumb ?s to make it run.
    1. The clutch arm won't engage. The arm has no play to it at all. In the videos the arm goes in towards the carb. Mine won't move?
    2. Rear wheel won't budge unless I sit on bike.. Figured because the clutch is locked in?
    3. I shortened the chain too much. Not using the chain tensioner. The chain had 3/4 " play, looks pretty straight.
    4. Have the gt5 slanthead with race carb. Gas is pouring out of secondary pink gas line??
     
  2. adam valentine

    adam valentine New Member

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    1 arm has to move tighten it up
    2 you have to get clutch to diengauge for it to move
    3 not too muck if it goes all the way around
    4 floats stuck open or your leaning bike too much
     
  3. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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    it sounds like the clutch shaft that runs through from the arm pivot to the clutch star is stuck.One of the kits we installed had the same problem, wd-40 with motor on it side did the trick, then clean everthing up.
     
  4. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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  5. LS614

    LS614 New Member

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    The leaking gas on the cns, is I believe, an overflow tube, I heard other people had the same issue. I think to solve it they had to tie the line up so it was out of the way. IDK for sure. something you might try if the internal clutch shaft is stuck is take a plastic mallet, take off the clutch arm cover, and give a few gentle smacks, but like you mean it, on the little shaft in the middle of the sprocket, this might loosen things up a bit. Your clutch lever SHOULD be able to move the clutch arm if nothing is seized and you have the cable installed correctly. Peace
    -LS
     
  6. rohmell

    rohmell Active Member

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    No, these are not dumb questions, in fact, it is SMART to ask questions to find out information and learn from others.

    Better to know about something beforehand by asking questions, than to not know, and mess things up.
     
  7. dag_29307

    dag_29307 New Member

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    Well stated that's why we are here. The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. There are however dumb/ignorant answers.

    Don't ever feel stupid for looking to gain knowledge.
     
  8. haste

    haste New Member

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    Seems like I fixed most my issues. Freed up the clutch, adjusted it properly, fixed the 2nd gas line. Now however, the the bike won't really start.. It just barely runs with my weight on it downhill then dies when stops.. Not 100% sure what's up now...

    My guess is the carb.. Has nice blue spark, timing is fixed so obv not an issue, clutch seems adj correctly.


    Shortened the chain way to much. It's barely in the rear dropouts... However should be fine to make sure it runs good first.
     
  9. Pinoyxprss

    Pinoyxprss New Member

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    Raise the idling with the idle screw on the carb, maybe it's not idling enough.

    I hope you're dis-engaging the clutch when you stop, unless you have a centrifugal clutch.

    Have fun
    JD
     
  10. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    Welcome to the world of CNSv2 carbs!

    I never researched it because they pissed me off the one time I tried to use CNS, but it acts like a choke problem, in that it acts like there's too much air restriction. High RPM when the rear wheel is lifted, but no torque under load.

    The fix I used - got an NT carb.

    Though - please, if someone knows how to rebuild/repair the CNSv2 carbs to make them work or knows of a link to a thread that explains it, link away!

    ADD:

    After just perusing, I noticed a thread where there was improvement from upjetting when handed the same symptoms, though I'm sure there's more.
     
    #10 DuctTapedGoat, May 5, 2011
    Last edited: May 5, 2011
  11. DaveC

    DaveC Member

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    Does your carb have the red cover or a K&N style cloth fabric wire mesh cleaner? Red cover is the CNS v.2. From all reports it's a piece of sh....errr...junk and you need to get rid of it. I have the CNS v.1, as good a carb as the CNS v.2 is bad. If you do happen to have the v.1 what's going on is that leaking tube comes from the bottom of the carb. It should go to a barbed vent tube located at the top of the carb. It feeds fuel to the choke enrichment circuit. The choke control open the circuit to dump in extra fuel which is what a choke-plate style does in the cheaper carbs by cutting off airflow and forcing more gas into the intake.

    They're some of the older CNS v.1 out there. I got mine from BGF off of eBay. If you order that way insure you specify you want the older carb so if they send a v.2 you can get your money back for sending the wrong one.
     
  12. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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    Have you tried moving the e-clip on the neddle? Go to grubeeinc.com and look at the exploded view of the carb. They have alot more info on that site that may be helpful.
     
  13. skyhawk66cc

    skyhawk66cc New Member

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    Here is an exploded view of the junkie CNS Carb, im waiting on an NT carb to replace this hunk of junk. I tryed to make the picture bigger but they wont allow me to upload it. sorry for the size.

    -skyhawk66cc
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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    The first engine i put on out of the five had a carb. problem, i dissassembled the carb. found the idle jet ( some call the pilot jet) was not clean i ran the smallest file of my torch cleaning set trough it seemed to do the job. before i cleaned you could not see the sun through it so mine was too lean at idle. also the engine runs off of this jet till the nettle moves.
     
  15. haste

    haste New Member

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    Good news! Just took apart carb and it started right away! However the chain popped off at 20 mph.. So I guess the tensioner is needed? Would a bike shop have a chain that would work for the bike since I shortened mine too much?

    Was super fun! Even though It lasted for only 10 seconds! I've built several vintage mopeds(puch,vespa ciao) and was sick of repairing 30 yr old parts. So far I'm actually surprised at the quality minus a few quirks. Can't wait to get a new chain, tension it correctly, hook up coaster brake, get motor on tighter, and ride!
     
  16. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    Most bike shops will have 415 chain. You can also look at farm/ranch stores for #41 tractor chain, people claim it works better.

    A tensioner isn't just used to apply tension, but to align the chain as it is fed to the sprocket.
     
  17. bigbutterbean

    bigbutterbean New Member

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    you are not listening, haste. if you had shortened the chain too far, it would not allow the rear wheel to move. trust me, i have done this. the chain popped off for one of two reasons, chain is not aligned or does not have enough tension. if you can wiggle the chain only a little bit and it does not droop when you let it go, then you have enough tension. if this is not the case, you need the tensioner. if chain is tight enough, check the alignment. sometimes it could be both. so check both no matter what.
     

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