Felt 1903 Build

Discussion in 'Motorized Cruiser Bicycles' started by Highwaystar, Feb 9, 2012.

  1. Highwaystar

    Highwaystar Member

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    After looking at about every bike available, I decided to build a Felt 1903. I love the look of the bike.

    I had read that the Felt has some interesting issues when converting them. Luckily I found KW Machine Works (OldBiker) web site. He is you one stop shop for converting the Felt 1903.

    I ordered a bung/gas cap and motor mounts. While on the phone with him I also learned he was making hub adaptors, chain tensioners and a grease seal/spacer for the rear hub. Well I just had to have those as well.

    After a couple days of the Brown Truck Blues, they arrived. The pics do not do these parts justice. The machine work is some of the finest I have ever seen.

    This is going to be a fun build!

    I want to thank KW Machine Works for all of the help you have given, I am sure I will have a few more questions before it all said and done.

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  2. Highwaystar

    Highwaystar Member

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    Here are a few shots of the bike mocked up. Everything appears to be working just fine. Now it is just a matter of tearing it down and sealing the top tube.

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    And a couple in black & white:

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    Big thanks to OldBiker. He has been a great help.
     
  3. leadfarmer

    leadfarmer New Member

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    I like the 1903 frame as well. Are the springer forks functional? The pics I have seen don't seem to have a linkage on the axle.
     
  4. Highwaystar

    Highwaystar Member

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    Yes, they are functional. They don't move in an as much of an up and down motion as they do rocking motion. The Abraham or Monarch style fork is more up and down.
     
  5. Blake84

    Blake84 New Member

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    I plan on using a 1903 on my next build. I have 2 felt frames and they are great! Your bike looks great. I would run the exhaust and mount it parallel with the bottom rear wheel fork mount thingy. :). Post a video when it's done
     
  6. Highwaystar

    Highwaystar Member

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    I am about half way through the the tank process. I have decided to have a local shop tig a boss for my petcock. I will have to touch the paint up a bit, but it will make for a very solid mount. Hopefully I can get that done Monday. Then it just a matter of using the Caswell sealer.
     
  7. oldbiker

    oldbiker New Member

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    Hi Highway star. Thanks for the kind words. Your bike looks great! As I was saying on the phone, I was working on a video about sealing the tank. I finally completed it and I hope it helps future builders to seal their tanks. I'm sure it will do what other "how to" videos do, is open up discussion on the topic. Every ones opinions and comments are appreciated. If it looks like I'm sick in the video, it is because I am. Better now. Oldbikerhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEaVHJ8NBTo
     
  8. Highwaystar

    Highwaystar Member

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    I just finished up the prep work for the tank sealer. Now, I am just waiting for it to dry out.

    The welding shop I took it to to have the petcock boss made went a little overkill, but it will never leak there! It caused a bit more damage to the paint than I had expected, but it wasn't too bad.

    All in all, I am very pleased with the progress thus far, I should have some fresh final assembly pics coming soon!dance1
     
  9. fastfingas

    fastfingas Member

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    Hey oldbiker thats a real good video you put together! I hadn't understood how you actully sealed the tank till you mixed the solution and taped the holes up, one question How can you tell you've spread the sealer completly inside the tank??? what happens if you miss a spot? is that posisble?? is there excess sealer you have to get out?? I'm just trying to get the concept straight in my little brain ,,, the sealer looks like it dries strong......
     
  10. oldbiker

    oldbiker New Member

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    Thanks, Yes you could miss some sealer around the rear hole area in the seat post. The two bikes I have done with the sealer, I had to go back and add some more sealer to catch the holes that are hidden in the rear area that you can't see. I don't think the holes are big because they seal with two application of sealer. You can drain out excess, but you will find you don't need much to apply to the tank side walls, just concentrate on the holes in the front and rear. I should of talked more about that in the video, but tried to keep it under 10 min.
     
  11. fastfingas

    fastfingas Member

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    the video is great and the procidure is clear, I've always thought of building tanks that would fit in the frame like you did , make them more stream lined instead of having them sit right on the tube,,, good job brother
     
  12. Highwaystar

    Highwaystar Member

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    The bike is well on its way to being motored! I am nearing the final stages of assembly. I am looking forward to putting some fuel through this thing..wee.
     
  13. fastfingas

    fastfingas Member

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    Highwaystar I'm glad you're about to motor up but you didn't comment on the procedure yea the tank sealer howed it go? you covered it all in one shot ????you did'nt miss a spot?? tell us about that part of the build...........
     
  14. Highwaystar

    Highwaystar Member

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    The Caswell is pretty awesome stuff. If the directions included are followed it is a simple process. I was able to get a light and mirror in the tank it it is covered very well. I have used both POR 15 and Kreem in the past with VW's,Z cars and MG's. This is my first time using Caswell, but it will not be the last. It is the best sealer I have ever seen.
     
  15. fastfingas

    fastfingas Member

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    good deal how about the gas cap you did as the video? it looked real nice after the clean up !!!!!!! what promted you to tig ths petcock insted of threading???just curious.....
     
  16. Highwaystar

    Highwaystar Member

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    I know how tight I like things to be. I just didn't trust an 1/8 inch of threads. Don't get me wrong tapping the top tube will work, I just wanted to be sure that it would not fail there after removing the petcock a few times. As soon as I can get the bike outside, I will snap some shots to show what I did.

    I also took the extra step of plugging all holes with steel wool, then covering them with warm JB Weld (the warmth thins the JB). This formed a decent sized "plug" over both areas that had major gaps. The Caswell is awesome stuff, once again the steel wool and JB is probably overkill, but I like to do things once, and not have to worry about it ever again.

    And yes I used The KW Machine Works (OldBiker) bung/gas cap combo. It went perfectly. KW's machine work is top notch. I used a 1 3/8" hole saw as directed, and the cap has a very tight snug fit. Everything he has made for this bike has exceeded my expectations thus far. It is almost a shame to put such a cheap engine in such finely made mounts!LOL
     
  17. Venice Motor Bikes

    Venice Motor Bikes Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles

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    I've done plenty of these in frame tanks... Just drill & tap the frame for the petcock; you should also use some gas proof thread sealer on it. ;)
     
  18. Highwaystar

    Highwaystar Member

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    As I said, I know it is overkill, but I like the extra security overkill offers. One less thing to worry about. I have more than a few years building/tuning USAC sprint cars under my belt. I grew up in a body shop doing custom cars, bikes and collision repair. I will trust a 1/2" of threads over an 1/8" any day. I don't suggest doing this on a bike you want to save the factory paint on though.
     
  19. fastfingas

    fastfingas Member

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    well i can understand your point of tig as oposed to maybe 3 or 4 threads on the petcock makes sensewill be waiting for some pix,,,,,
     
  20. Highwaystar

    Highwaystar Member

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    Here are a couple pics:

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