engine siezed - fix or replace?

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by JdubMotorMan, May 17, 2011.

  1. JdubMotorMan

    JdubMotorMan New Member

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    Hey guys, I stuck to the maintenance schedule exactly as recommended in the owners manual including proper oil and gas mixing and yesterday on a short ride my motor completely siezed up .... should I attempt to take it apart and try to fix it or just call it a loss and eventually purchase a new motor?
     
  2. oldtimer54

    oldtimer54 Member

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    I would take it apart and at least see, whats the worst that could happen and youll get to learn something. A new motor should be about $80 shpped so not to bad. Let us know how it goes.
     
  3. JdubMotorMan

    JdubMotorMan New Member

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    I actually just got off the phone with the guy and he said send it in with $60.00 and they'll send me a new one... other than that, where can I buy just the motor brand new?
     
  4. DaveC

    DaveC Member

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    Very much depends on why it seized. Does the piston still turn now that it's cool'd down? You'r going to have to tear it down to find out. Waaaaay too much could be wrong, some things are repairable and some turn the motor to junk.

    I have a 49cc that's never run:bad magneto coil, that I was going to list in the yardsale section but I'll give you first shot at it for $50 shipped. It will need the magneto coil and bucking bar in the clutch from your old motor but like I said, I bolted it to my frame and tried to get it to fire. Ran the tests and discovered it was the magneto coil. I'll even send it with a NGK B6HS installed, well, in the box. brnot

    I have a 66 cc I'll be selling, too, but it has major bolt-ons. There are ...."things" on it unavalible from anyone. That one I will have to list in the yard sale. So many up-grades the sum of the parts way exceeds the cost of the motor. I'll be listing it at about 50% of what I have into it.:-||
     
  5. oldtimer54

    oldtimer54 Member

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    Thats your best deal but boy goes fast sales just the motor.
     
  6. rohmell

    rohmell Active Member

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    A whole engine is $80 + $16.99 S&H = 96.99
    If you send in your old engine + $60, this means that the engine is worth $36.99.
    The old engine has the crankcase halves, magneto, magnet, clutch parts, that if bought separately would easily exceed $36.99.
    I would keep the old engine for parts/rebuilding and a learning experience, unless you're hard up for loot.
     
  7. DaveC

    DaveC Member

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    The 49 cc I described IS a BGF motor. So is the 66 cc.

    Broken is the natural state of a Chinese motor. The need for constant repair and the necessity of a parts warehouse has soured me on the HT boat anchor.
     
  8. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

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    BoyGoFast no ship to California. It's those C.A.R.B. regulations.
     
  9. rohmell

    rohmell Active Member

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    BGF's warehouse is in California, and he can't ship to California. Yet the kits can be shipped to him in California from overseas.

    I tell you, the laws are all effed up.
     
  10. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

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    Yes, CARB is a out of control non elected CA agency run by
    a crazy lady that doesn't care if CARB regs mess up CA.
    CARB = CaliforniaAirResourcesBoard

    Huh? Having non CARB motors in a CA warehouse is one thing.
    Selling them to a CA user who is going to run the motor in CA
    is quite another.

    GasBike aka KingsMotorBikes is also in Van Nuys CA and they
    don't ship to CA either.

    The fine for them would be large.

    These Chinese 2 stroke bicycle motors will never be CARB approved.

    Only CARB approved motors that we use on bicycles I can think of are
    Honda GX 25, 35 and 50 cc
    Robin Subaru 25 and 35 cc
    Harbor Freight 79 cc and larger 4 strokes

    Harbor Freight 2 strokes
    Tanaka Purefire
    Mitsubishi
     
  11. JdubMotorMan

    JdubMotorMan New Member

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    thanks Dave , I actually took it apart and found the piston arm was bone dry so I oiled it up and put everything back together and got it running... now I just need to figure out what the loud rattling sound is coming from the motor when I rev it up ... any ideas ?
     
  12. JdubMotorMan

    JdubMotorMan New Member

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    thanks Old timer , I might check that out if it happens again , but I got it up and running , just need to figure out what the loud rattling sound is ...
     
  13. dag_29307

    dag_29307 New Member

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    Where can I find some of those? they aren't listed on their site.
     
  14. JdubMotorMan

    JdubMotorMan New Member

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    Gears were rattling I found out. Unfortunately one minute into riding yesterday engine siezed again :/
     
  15. Drewd

    Drewd New Member

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    jdub,
    what were the engine operation parameters when it seized? did you warm up engine a little before going to full throttle-2 strokes can cold seize.

    how much oil mixture ratio and what type are you using? i strongly recommend 32:1 using klotz supertechniplate or maxima 927....no more or less for now.

    pull the head and check to see that the pins in the cylinder that prevent ring rotation are secure...sometimes they pop out and get spit out the exhaust and then the rings rotate and catch on a port.

    some more info would be appreciated. also check idle mixture by starting engine then closing the fuel valve and see how much it speeds up. it shold speed up 200-300 rpm just before it dies...if it sounds like it is speeding up a lot you are too rich and if it speeds up or doesn't speed up at all you may wish to lower the e-clip on the needle valve one notch to richen the mixture.
     
  16. JdubMotorMan

    JdubMotorMan New Member

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    Hi Drewd , thanks for the tips. Unfortunately I didn't warm it up yesterday I just started to go. Usually I warm it up for a little bit . Also , I wanted to make sure the engine was getting lubed really well so there is a lot more oil than normal in there right now causing plenty of white smoke and a slower response with the engine power. I will have to pull the head again. I also noticed that the nut that holds the large gear in place is cracked and needs to be replaced and the large gear wiggles more than it probable should ... at first I thought it was a bearing but now I don't think it is ... the oil I am using it synthetic 2 stroke oil from Home Depot by the chainsaws. I'm actually going to switch to Opti-2 if I can get it running again... I'm on a huge budget right now , so whatever happens , I have to do it myself lol , all advise and tips are welcome though
     

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