Did i install the clutch correctly?

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by ncfootballchamp, Sep 4, 2010.

  1. ncfootballchamp

    ncfootballchamp New Member

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  2. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    Your clutch cable is very, very waaaay too loose.

    It should have a teensy little bit of freeplay in it. Just enough to let the release arm wiggle a little bit (like 1/32 of an inch) when the hand lever is released all the way out.

    Also, loose that spring between the cable stop and release arm. It really does nothing else but cause confusion for new builders.

    Expect the clutch to be a very hard squeeze at first. It will get easier at the engine breaks in. Lubricating the cable helps out alot.
     
  3. ncfootballchamp

    ncfootballchamp New Member

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    alright so i so how do I tighten the cable?
    and isn't the spring necesairy to push the release arm out when the clutch disengages?
    For me, when I have no spring, nothing pushes the lever back into place.
    or will that be solved with tightening the cable?
     
  4. killercanuck

    killercanuck New Member

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    roger that, you can keep that spring, it just makes it harder to view your 'freeplay'. The clutch arm only needs to push the ball less than a millimeter for complete action.

    Adjust it by screwing out where the cable goes into on your motor.

    check these animations out:
    http://motorbicycling.com/f30/animated-view-motorized-bicycle-clutch-assembly-8939.html

    "The more you know, the more you can screw up" Heh heh!

    good luck!
     
  5. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    The spring absolutely has nothing to do with pushing the arm back into a "neutral" position.
    Throw the spring as hard as you can into the nearest trash can.
    The clutch spring inside the engine case is plenty strong enough to move the release arm back.

    When you swing the arm inwards, towards the carburetor, and it stops moving, that is the point where it touches the other internal parts to release the clutch.

    Ok, after trashing the spring do this:
    1. Loosen the lock screw in the brass cable end until the cable can slide through it. Do not remove the brass cable end from the cable.
    2. While keeping the brass cable end in the cable hole on the tip of the clutch release arm , grab a hold of the end of the cable with pliers and pull the cable through the brass cable end until the cable is tight.
    3. Swing the release arm (with the brass cable end still in the tip of it) inwards towards the carburetor until it stops swinging. Do not forget to keep pulling the cable through the brass cable end as you are doing this.
    Tighten the lock screw in the brass end.
    The cable strand between the cable housing stop thingie on the top of the engine case and the release arm should almost be in a straight line now.
    You should barely be able to wiggle it. It should not be as tight as a piano wire though.
     
  6. ncfootballchamp

    ncfootballchamp New Member

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    Thank you so much for those detailed instructions! I'l try that in a bit and then get back to you
     
  7. KCvale

    KCvale Well-Known Member

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    Thanks gearnut, it was your turn anyway ;-}
    Every week it seems.
    Maybe just a Sticky topic we can point these guys too, or a FAQ page with that highlighted?

    That would also cover breaking a 'new' motors dried grease problem in the motor clutch problem too.

    Both are very common weekly problems.
     
  8. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    Too common...... but hey, what do you expect with a cheap engine kit?
    They come with cheap instructions too.
    I am just glad we can help out all the folks with deciphering the Chinenglish instructions and share a little mechanical knowledge along the way.
     
  9. killercanuck

    killercanuck New Member

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    For sure, maybe when Tom gets a minute he can gather up the pertinent info and make a post, or one of you guys should make a new post to get stickied? This does seem to be a recurring question...

    :D
     
  10. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    I just did it in the 2 Stroke Bicycle Engines & Kits section.
    All it needs is approval and if worthy, stickied.
     
  11. r00t4rd3d

    r00t4rd3d New Member

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    The bigger spring is for cable heat protection and you have it in the wrong spot.

    Ill go take a picture to show you.

    [​IMG]
     
    #11 r00t4rd3d, Sep 4, 2010
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2010
  12. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    Oh wow! You are right! I had to go back and look at the pictures. He does have the larger spring and the smaller spring both on there.
     
  13. ncfootballchamp

    ncfootballchamp New Member

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    ok i got it. Thanks so much for the help
     

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