clutch wont disengage.

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by stevet, Sep 26, 2012.

  1. stevet

    stevet New Member

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    so ive read alot of forums, followed everyones tips on helping other people then hearing they got it started ..... not me. ive been tinkering with it 2 weeks now.... problem.
    wont kick on.
    hat ive done.....
    clutch losened, took plate off cleard acces **** off clutch pads. put everything back on. flower nut allthe way down 1 notch back. and thats with the clutch released on the handle bars..... hmmmm. i dont seem to be getting spark. i am running 16;1. gunna change that asap. clutch cable is super tight while locked..... is that right? lock clutch then tighten wire or open clutch? all in all no experience with these other than mowing lawns and that was ages ago. please help. ill take and post pics of my adjustments. and what i have. any tips will help. never been used. got her off bike berry. PLEASE HELP.lol
    when i let let off the clutch while riding nothing happens. :-||
     
  2. edangel

    edangel New Member

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    cheak the right side might have to unloseing cluch plate or where ur cluch line goses in to the engine on the left side tack plate off theirs a small pin and behind that is a bearing put some grease in it that might help u
     
  3. stevet

    stevet New Member

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    you mean befor the cluth lever..... the little bolt it runs threw befor hand? will do. ive been wondering if that was it. but didnt not know. i read to much and it could rub the bottem gear... not good. how lose should my clutch plate be? like with the flower tightened, how much should i be able to push it inward?3/4 an inch?
     
  4. stevet

    stevet New Member

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    drinking does not help hahaha
     
  5. stevet

    stevet New Member

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    my left plate is super hard to get off. 1 screw takes an impact gun to get lose.... and last time i tried it was tearing it up so i stopped. i hate flat head screws
     
  6. edangel

    edangel New Member

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    oh i know the felling but on ur cluch plate is on the right take cover off and on left bottom ther a set screw back it out trun the plate to the right to it get tight stop their for now take the left cover off u see where the chain is to ur gear their a pin their where ur cluch arm pushes in evey time u use ur cluch take the pin out and grease if still not shore tip ur bike on the side and shack it but when u grease the ball and pin put the left side back on and on the right side push ur cluch in and lock it back ur plate to the left as soon as ur bike rolls lock ur sert screw
     
  7. stevet

    stevet New Member

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    cool. ill try that. work 14 hours next two days. so not sure when ill have the time. sucks. i ride it to work with out it running! everyone asks if its outa gas.... i just say yea at this point. cant get it to kick.:-||
     
  8. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    Have you read this?
    http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=22726

    Also, the clutch pressure plate should move back and forth approximately 1/8" when you squeeze and release the hand lever. It does not need to move much, just enough to release the pressure and let the clutch dis-engage.
     
  9. stevet

    stevet New Member

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    well the odd thing is..... there is no difference when i hold down or release the clutch.... the plate does not move. talking about the handle from locked to un locked plates do not move. even when super loose. its killing me. its like it doesnt wanna dis engage. i dont get a chug nothing. ill read you link. see if it helps. i really wanna change the spark plug too.
     
  10. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    Much better advice.
     
  11. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Here's another example of what happens when people start messing with the flower nut and clutch when they don't understand how the clutch works. I've preached this over and over again. DO NOT SCREW AROUND with the flower nut unless you know what you're doing or can follow the advice from those who do.
    99% of the time the problem is either the clutch cable is not adjusted correctly or the clutch pads are stuck. People who suggest to newbies to start messing with the flower nut are doing a disservice and not helping anyone.

    To the OP of this thread. My first question is are you using the right terminology?
    DISENGAGED, means the engine is NOT mechanically connected to the rear wheel.

    ENGAGED means it is connected and you can't disconnect it by squeezing the handlebar lever.
    Which condition are you experiencing?

    Tom
     
  12. stevet

    stevet New Member

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    update...... clutch lever was sent to me bent. so i took off the chain gaurd so i can pull it back farther then just to the motor. doesnt look right but i was able to get the spring in it. now its poping. i give it gas, i hear it rev... but it seams the power/ gas isnt there. it revs. but does not drive. any tips? ive tried the choke open closed..... its getting gas. my pin is set to the 2nd noch up from the bottom.


    ps..... first pop cost me 3 spokes! 2nd 2 more. working with a spare. getting new rim tomorrow. kinda ****y. but 007 is alive. its a beautiful thinglaff
     
  13. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    Congratulations on getting her to cough to a start on life!
    I bet the revving is simply the sound of air passing through the engine while the engine is turning over. How does the spark plug look at the firing tip? When checked immediately after trying to start the engine, is it wet or dry?
     
  14. stevet

    stevet New Member

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    will check.what would be good??
     
  15. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    A dry plug is preferred.
    If it is wet then the carb still has a flooding issue... or... If the carb was flooding previously then there is a good chance that the crankcase has filled up some with fuel which must be evacuated before the engine will start. Excess fuel in the crankcase will upset the precise air/ fuel ratio that is transferred into the combustion chamber and result in a no start, wet plug and frustration when the carburetor is tuned adequately to run.

    If the spark plug is dry then you most likely have a air leak somewhere in the intake. It could be the carb to manifold or the manifold to cylinder. An air leak can also exist elsewhere, but the intake system is the most common place to start looking.
     
  16. stevet

    stevet New Member

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    ok go i cant find the start new thread button so i guess ill add on to this. i hope people read it. but my bike ran smooth for about a week, then i could tell it was loosing power wouldnt go fast as it first did. now i cant even get it to stay on. i strt it, i rev it up and i can hear the revs. but no power to the wheels at all. and it only stays on if im moving. when i put the clutch in it dies. ive taken off the muffler, cleaned i talked to someone on the phone. said my oild gas ratio is too high. so i emptied my tank. took out the spark plug and off with the muffler. ima let her sit and dry out for a day or 3 in the mean time. any ideas?
     
  17. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    What you are describing is a dead engine. It makes sounds similar to running when you are forcing it to turn over by pedal power because as the piston moves up and down it is still drawing air through the carburetor and blowing air out of the exhaust, like an air pump.

    1. Check the spark plug for a good blue/white spark.
    If you have no spark, let us know and we'll diagnose it further.
    If you do have spark then the engine is having a fuel delivery issue.
    That should be easy to fix too.
     

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