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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Wheel Rush, Mar 13, 2011.
I was trying to adjust the cable since there didn't seem to be enough exposed outside the sheath, . . however at the point where it enters the first point where it is directed to the clutch arm as illustrated (a), I could clip the cable sheath, since there is a little cap that fits over the cable and sheath at that point, do you understand what I mean, have you ever done that ?
I know there is a metal conduit within the sheath I would have to back the cable up to clip it .
I'm not sure what you're asking in your second post, but the arm is pressure fit on the clutch actuator, and it's splined. Some gentle tapping should pop it out, as well as back in again. I take it you're trying to rotate that arm just a little bit to give you more cable clearance?
Moving that arm is not the right way to adjust the cable tension/position. If your cable is too short, for whatever reason, you should replace it. Re-clocking, or changing the indexed position of the clutch actuator arm can open up a new can of worms such as interference with other parts, insufficient travel, etc.
As a rule the kit supplied clutch cables are too long except in the case of high rise handlebars (ape hangers) the cable shouldn't be too short.
How did you route the cable? Try routing it with as few bends as possible and no sharp bends or kinks. Don't use nylon tie-wraps to excess, allowing the cable to move/flex a bit.
I don't know if this answers your question or not but I hope the info helps.
Also, since the clutch cable has a removable knarp on the engine end, you can pull the cable out of the housing and cut the housing back - provided the existing housing is extra long. That'll give you more exposed cable at the engine side, and a cleaner cable install. If there's a little metal cap over the end of the cable housing, you can even uncrimp that and recrimp it on the new housing end after you cut.