anyone tried this bike?

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by toker_ace, Sep 6, 2009.

  1. toker_ace

    toker_ace Member

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    This is a bike that I have my friction drive on.Has anyone put a chia girl on one of these bikes? Its a mongoose pavement paver with 28" wheels. It has a tight frame but I think a slant motor will work?
     

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  2. jay sawdust

    jay sawdust New Member

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    Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket I HAVE i actualy love it....i have a 66cc grubee on it...it comes with 700c x 1.75 tires w/ nice center rib for good speed....the only thing i would say about this bike is its not an easy install....i had to use a die grinder to open up and angle the frame mounts...and the bottom tube i squeezed togeather..(its aluminum)..with a pipe clamp (woodworking type)..so that bolts can pass by....you cant use a big tube adapter....no room Also you need to turn the carb to the side...i used a rubber tube,a copper w.p. butt connector and a couple pipe clamps... It was a bit of work for my first build but im real happy with the way it turned out...people think its old fastioned with the tall tires....handelbars are cool too....good luck J
     
  3. toker_ace

    toker_ace Member

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    so, let me get this right. You connected a rubber tube between the intake and the carb? Any pictures? Also, is it real fast due to the larger wheels?
     
  4. BarelyAWake

    BarelyAWake New Member

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    I had a very similar problem with carb clearance on my frame, I found simply cutting the intake manifold would allow me to rotate it - changing the angle and canting it to the side. You need be careful however as if it's an aluminum intake, it's nearly a 1/4 inch thick sidewall and if the two halves aren't flush it will interrupt the flow and collect fuel. If it's a steel one, the step is so marginal it really doesn't matter much.

    Another concern to be wary of is vibration, should you choose to extend the manifold - be careful to mount it (carb) securely to keep the shaking down, frothed fuel is not going to help performance lol

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    *My carburetor is more level than it appears in this pic - my camera was held by a slightly crooked person heh
     
    #4 BarelyAWake, Sep 7, 2009
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2009
  5. jay sawdust

    jay sawdust New Member

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    I realy like barlyawakes solution...very clean...i might try it as i bought an aluminum intake so i can port it out better than the steel intake i have...In the pic you can see what i did...it works fine but i wonder if the longer intake hurts start-up and throtle response...anyway...I stuck a copper plumbing pipe butt connector in carb w/ some plastic tape (not electrical tape) for a better sealthen attached some clear rubber tubing (seems to be fuel resistant...lol)then attached it to the stock intake that i chamfored in so no gas puddeling....the clamps positioned just so creates a preaty smooth flow profile.....As for is it fast with the tall tires?....YES...a bit hard to take off but not too bad since i modified the actuator.....the 44 tooth sprocket is like putting a slightly smaller sprocket on a 26" (is that right?).....mine goes 38 mph...im happy...hope you do the build. J carb 2 pictures by jaysawdust - Photobucket still havent figured out how to post pics in here
     
  6. BarelyAWake

    BarelyAWake New Member

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    Yer using Photobucket jay, so it's quite easy to post pics - use the bottom most tag bucket provides, the one with [ img]picgoeshere.jpg[ /img] (no spaces) and simply copy/paste to your message.

    You may have been prevented from posting pics initally as an anti-spam mesure, but you have enough posts now ;)

    And yeah, yer right- bigger wheels = faster top speed at the price of acceleration, same as a smaller rear sprocket would do. The "rubber gear" ratio method :D
     
    #6 BarelyAWake, Sep 8, 2009
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2009

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