Another new guy

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by Pearl91chevy, Oct 3, 2013.

  1. Pearl91chevy

    Pearl91chevy New Member

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    Hey guys, names Jesse from Beloit Wisconsin. Been into bicycles all my life, and after seeing a guy cruising down the street on a motorized bicycle I wanted one haha. Tis is the bike I'll be using
    [​IMG]

    And here's the kit I bought which will be here tomorow, also bought a booster bottle which comes Monday.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/251218007344
     
    #1 Pearl91chevy, Oct 3, 2013
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013
  2. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Welcome to the forum, Jesse. I'm sure you'll fit right in here.
    Keep us informed on the progress of your build.

    Tom
     
  3. Pearl91chevy

    Pearl91chevy New Member

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    Thanks 2 door. I hope motor will fit even though it's a twenty inch. If not I'll modify the bike more. Also looking to mod this motor. Any suggestions? My goal is to hit 50mph
     
  4. paul

    paul Active Member

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    hi jesse and welcome to our world of motorized bicycles. I will first say I love the truck in the picture and number 2 bicycles are not meant to do 50mph. things start failing fast. great to have you with us
     
  5. Pearl91chevy

    Pearl91chevy New Member

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    Lol trucks long gone.. Bmxing used to be my old love, but after getting hurt I had to quit which then I got involved with trucks. Not sure if your familer with them but now I own a pretty built gmc typhoon.

    From the kit I posted earlier, is there anything right off the bat that will help performance? Different carb? Exhaust? I'm looking for any tips and since the motor is coming tomorow I should have it on and going tomorow if all goes well.. Also I seen to change the plug and wire right away and it will make a great differences. Any suggestions on what I could use? I know NGk but what size and whatnot. Along with what wire? Hopefully something I can run down street to parts store to grab
     
  6. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Jesse There's a rule of thumb, not everyone agrees but most do, and that is to wait until the engine is broken in before starting to add go-fast parts. You'll need to get a couple of hundred miles on the engine before it would be considered 'broke in'.
    After that go for one modification at a time. That way you'll have some basis for comparison to establish a base line from. If something doesn't work, you'll know where to start looking.

    Rear sprocket size, the smaller the faster, is one place to increase speed. Expansion chamber exhaust and proper carburtetor tuning are other places to start.

    There are bikes that will reach into the 50mph range but we typically advise against trying to achieve those speeds unless you've done serious up grades to the bearings, wheels, spokes and especially the brakes. Frame construction is also important.

    You have to keep in mind that you're building a bicycle, not a motorcycle. 25 to 30 is a much more reasonable goal and more easlily achieved. Safety is also a prime concern. When you start getting above 40mph you're getting into an area that can get you seriously hurt unless you take precautions.

    Do some reading here in the 'High Performance' section to see what others have done to their bikes when getting into the motorcycle speed range. Take it from an old hot rodder, bicycles were never meant to keep up with traffic. Even motorized bikes. :)

    Good luck. Have fun but ride safe.

    Tom
     
  7. Pearl91chevy

    Pearl91chevy New Member

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    THanks for the tips! I plan on running synthetic threw the motor. What is the recommended mixtures for break in and then after break in? I'll be using amsoil. Also seen I should use the NGk b6hs plug correct?
     
  8. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Active Member

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    Your truck reminds me of the Pro Stock Truck class that the NHRA
    used to sanction. I miss seeing those trucks race.
    My 220 lb motor scooter is not particularly stable at 50 mph, so you can expect a very
    busy ride on a 50 lb motorized bicycle at that speed.
    To achieve that speed, you will need to do a lot of reading on our racing sub-forum.
    Our racers are the speed experts.
    http://motorbicycling.com/forumdisplay.php?f=13
     
  9. silverbear

    silverbear The Boy Who Never Grew Up

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    Welcome to the forum. Have fun & stay safe.
    SB
     
  10. Pearl91chevy

    Pearl91chevy New Member

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    Well as of right now, don't have a bike that will work. I got 2 mountain bikes, ones my Haro but the lower frame rail is to thick which won't allow me to mount the motor. Other mountain bike has full suspention do outta question. My red bike posted above, well long story short top rail is the issue, motor will fit but not with the spark plug and I didn't even try the carb.. So I went to walmart, toys r us,and target to find a bike.. Everything is either not comfortable or lower frame rail is to thick. This sucks lol
     
  11. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    Click on the sick bike parts link here http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ducts_id=85&osCsid=rir46qse5ekdstc6dftnutetv0 and you will find adapter for mounting engine to the larger bike frames, personally I make my own, very simple to do if you have a drill, 4"-4 /2" grinder with a thin cut off wheel and either a welder or a torch that you can use for brazing or torch welding with a wire coat hanger.
    What I make up is held secure to the frame with a muffler clamp that closely fits the frame dia. I get them at Autozone or most any parts store.

    Most of the beach cruiser type bikes do have larger tube frames than what the front engine mount will fit, but like I said its actually a simple fix to get around that.

    And sick bike parts has a great setup for it if you dont have the tools to make your own.

    Below are some pix of what I do on mine, a bit crude looking not being painted up but works great and is bullet proof.

    just 1" wide flat streap steel works great and can actually be all one piec using a wider piece of flat steel, this is just one way it can be done but there are others that dont require welding and would only require a clamp, a 2"-2 1/2" piece of metal with four holes drilled in it.

    look at these pix and then let your own creative juices flow and I'll bet you'll have a solid set up figured out in no time.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Map
    .wee.
     
    #11 mapbike, Oct 5, 2013
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2013
  12. Pearl91chevy

    Pearl91chevy New Member

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    Well got a bike, got everything together and having a horrible time with the chain binding on the motor side sprocket, it like the wrong size gear for the chain.
     
  13. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    Take off the cover that is over the small drive sprocket and see if th chain will sit all the way down in the teeth of the sprocket.

    Is you drive chain the same width as the chain on the pedal side of the bike?

    If it is you will need to do one of two things, you can order a narrower drive sprocket and replace that or what I would do is order a KMC415H Chain and be sure it is longer than the 98link chain some sell, this chain can be found on ebay and at amazon.com as well as several other places.
    Hopefully its just that you need a woder chain, if so that is a simple fix.

    Map
    .wee.
     
  14. Pearl91chevy

    Pearl91chevy New Member

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    Ok not very happy, list of bad things.
    Wires were all over sprayed, which lead to me having to clean then and the connections to read them.
    Gear cover on motor side that also holds the clutch arm on rubs the chain
    The chain doesnt even fit properly on the motor side, it binds up horribly bad
    Idler pulley will not holds it place which caused chain to pop off and get binded up between spokes and frame causing tire to lock up.
    Clutch cable is binding up at the lever on handlebars

    Not very happy about any of this, still doing what I can to make it work but damn.
     
  15. Pearl91chevy

    Pearl91chevy New Member

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    The chain is def bigger then the normal drive side. It's more the fact the chain gets stuck inside the teeth not allowing it to release and makes chain get binded up inside the case. I've filed the ends of sprocket down and used lube, both has helped but not 100% fixed the problem
     
  16. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    The chain rubbing the cover a little is common, as far as the idler/tensioner, once you get it in place and aligned, what I myself and several other have done is drill a small hole through the bracket and on through the frame where it is clamped on the frame and put a small sheet metal screw in with some blue thread locker on it and that will solve the bracket from rotating I to the spokes.

    It could be that the chain is just not well made and the links arw not spaced correctly, if that is the problem a good KMC chain will fix that problem.

    Just hang in there, these kits are really not that hard to sort out and have going good once you learn a few tricks, many of us have been where you are now so just keep asking questions and dont forget to use the search feature on the forum, it will help you find many answers to many problems and upgrades that many of us have done to make our bike very reliable solid running bikes.

    Map
    .wee.
     
  17. Pearl91chevy

    Pearl91chevy New Member

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    Fan ally got it running this morning. Been out for about a hour in it off and on checking stuff.. I have it mixed right now at 32:1 with synthetic ams oil. The plug is a little wet and so it's exhaust but I have no smoke at all. Few questions is the motor ever supposed to idle on its own? As of right now top speed is 15mph
     
  18. Pearl91chevy

    Pearl91chevy New Member

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    Ok update, just went on about a ten mile trip. Stopped at a buddies who messes with 2 stroke scooteres and stuff. He got the bike to run a little better, seems the throttle is the issue with top speed, also having problems keeping the bike idling but other then that she's running good and didn't have any issues
     
  19. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    Yes engine should idle real nicelycwhen you lt off throttle, if the plug is wet and the exhaust you are for sure running way rich on fuel, also seems like 32:1 is a lot of oil in the mix for amsoil but will be ok for now im sure.

    Are you running the CNS CARB?

    Im not vry familiar with the CNS carbsive never used them, I hav new one in box but just never seen a need to try to mak it work since the NT carbs are so easy to tune.

    The way I re-jet my carbs is to solder up the jet hole with a small bit of solder and then I drill the jets with a #73 wire gauge bit to start with, I run the engine a couple miles with a freshly cleaned spark plug and then check my plug color, if it runs strong with very little 4 stroking accept for a little at slower speeds I know I may have it just about right.

    From my experience you shouls have a top speed of 25-30mph not 15, my bikes will dang near idle at 15 mph, I pdal up to about 11-12mph before I even release the clutch lever, so yeah.... no doubt you are running really rich on fuel.

    Here is where I get my small bits from
    http://www.widgetsupply.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=WB05&Store_Code=WS

    http://www.widgetsupply.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BLU01&Store_Code=WS

    Shan
     
  20. Pearl91chevy

    Pearl91chevy New Member

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    I installed a NGk bpr7hs and it made a huge difference. I rode a good 10 miles again without a problem. I just pulled the plug back out and it's black again and wet what should I do the mix ratio at? Also I'm not very fond of this carb, seems to idle sometimes and others it won't. What would you guys recommend for a aftermarket carb with more control?
     
    #20 Pearl91chevy, Oct 6, 2013
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2013

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