Alternate Gas Tank, Under Seat?

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by mikldom, Feb 2, 2010.

  1. mikldom

    mikldom New Member

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    I'll be starting my OCC project soon.

    It appears there is enough room under the seat, on top or at the rear fender to install a small gas tank, as I have seen on pictures of other (non occ) builds. I maybe trying to avoid the big ole gas tank on the top bar.

    You cannot install a rear rack, or I don't want too.

    I am looking for at least a 2 quart gas tank, cylindrical, and to fit horizontal.

    What do you suggest? Should I attempt to make one? What have others have found to use? Is there a supplier of small gas tanks? I know it has to have an outlet, I would like one taped so that a petcock and/or fuel filter can screw right into it.

    Thanks for the suggesstions.. my project is going to start soon. I got a real pretty, immaculate OCC Stingray, the Barry mount from Ebay, front forks with fender and brake bosses, dual brake pull lever with built in thumb throttle for right side. Going to get custom occ exhaust from barry on ebay, then the custom sprocket adapter from the maniac. Probably going to get the Pirate PK80 kit, as I see all the new stuff going to goto that engine so it has somewhat of an upgrade path built into it.
     
  2. obd1kenobi

    obd1kenobi New Member

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    I used an old Briggs gas tank, wrapped in leather, and welded up a custom mount utilizing stock threaded tabs in my frame. I am also going to use copper fuel line, instead of rubber.
     

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  3. Sign Guy

    Sign Guy New Member

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    I've got a milk crate on the back of my bike which I put a 1 gal plastic gas can in. I am having issues with the venting system on it. When I hit a bump gas sloshes out the vent and gets all over so I'm looking into ways to remedy the situation. I'll post some pictures later this evening when I get home. I have got some clear flex tubing which I think it paramount on these things as vibration would certainly break a solid line IMO.
     
  4. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Just watch your height. The fuel outlet of the tank must be higher than the inlet of the carburetor. And I agree with Sign Guy. I would not use rigid fuel line. Stick with something that will flex with the vibrations.
    Tom
     
  5. mikldom

    mikldom New Member

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    I liked the idea of the old cylindrical tank in the bag.

    Seeing that I probably can't find a two quart tank, can one be made?

    Has anybody used any various cans (I won't use a gas can)?

    Can PVC hold up to gas?

    I haven't looked at a Tractor Supply, or Northern, as I live in a small town, but I do travel quite a bit, but not again for a couple of weeks.

    I am just looking for some ideas.

    Thanks.
     
  6. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    I used a stewed tomato can(only because it was $2.60) holds over three qts. It is in bag under seat.
     

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  7. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    SignGuy,
    What worked for me is, seperate vent hose from top of tank with a inline fuel filter. Place the filter close too the tank 3" or so. The filter impeads the slosh and gives it time to drain back into tank. I have about 10" of line after the filter. Remember the vent line must installed as to gravity drain back into tank. The fuel line can be installed in serpentine fashion to conserve space.
     

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  8. mikldom

    mikldom New Member

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    Hey pal, thanks for joining in.

    That is why I was asking. I really, really like the idea it under the seat like that.

    how did you make a lid for it? screw on top? Tapped boss for screw in filter? or, did you make some kind of plumbing fitting.

    If I want to put gas under my but, I don't want it leaking, or coming out as I don't want to catch on fire.

    Got any pictures of your actual tank?

    /mike
     
  9. Retmachinist

    Retmachinist New Member

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    I have made several different tanks. PVC is probably the cheapest and easiest. And yes, it will stand up to gasoline just fine. I have also made many different styles from Aluminum tubing.

    John
     

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  10. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    Mikldom,
    Good to hear from you! That is an old picture, last season. However the tank/ bag looks exactly the same. It had a 48 oz. tank in it, couldn't live with that. Put the new one in 2 wks. ago.
    Didn't take pic's.
    Fuel cap is a pipe dope can cover(pvc glue primer can is less messy, same can).
    1. Open the dope can with a can opener(this gives you a flange to work with).
    2. Hole saw a hole in the tank(about 1-1/4") and empty contents.
    3. Drill vent hole, same plane oppsite end. about 3/8 dia.
    4. Solder 90 Deg. 1/8 brass pipe fitting for vent in 3/8 hole.
    5. solder filler cap flange over 1-1/4" hole.
    6. drill another 3/8" hole in bottom of tank for another 1/8" 45 or 90 Deg. brass pipe fitting.
    7. Solder brackets as needed for mounting.

    keep the can half full of water when soldering(makes it much easier to work with if you are using propane torch).
    I will get some Pic,s friday.

    Later Jim
     
    #10 Russell, Feb 3, 2010
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2010
  11. mikldom

    mikldom New Member

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    Thanks!!!

    I like those ideas. While I am a very handy guy, having somebody point me in the right direction helps tremoundoulsly (sorry, spelling).

    I mean, I really like that idea of using a pvc primer can.. I think I got one of those somewhere.

    the vent fitting, what do I put on that? I piece of fuel tubing to a hole in the gas tank lid? If not, how do you keep the gas from coming out of the vent and getting on bag, tank, your tail, etc?

    Please send pics. I am going to experiment with that idea this weekend and find an appropriate bag.

    I am still thinking of a jackshaft for my chopper (bought yet ANOTHER mint OCC chopper, up to 5!!) but will start with a sprocket adapter and probably a 44 or 48 tooth sprocket. I am not too worried about going faster than 25.

    I like your pipe with the expansion chamber too. Did you tune that chamber? or, just put it in, and it works pretty well? I saw the sbp expansion chamber setup, and how to tune it, but I would rather have a nice loooong pipe to the back, and weld in a chamber, but putting it at the right sweet spot is key from what I understand.

    I lost my old propane torch.. I will go buy one from the tool store or hel-mart this week.

    did you use flux? did you put the pipe dope can flange you made on the curved part of the can, or, on the top part? I am thinking I would like to try a horizontal setup, but, curving said flange could be an issue. Is it ok to fill it up with a bunch of solder, if the joint isn't perfectly flat?

    Also, what kind of solder? Acid Core, or Flux Core, electronic solder, silver solder, or just plain 'ole solder for welding copper pipe you pick up at Lowes?

    Thanks for the additional tips. I am getting pretty excited and I am scheduled out unti May as it is with HUD jobs. Got a week in Northeast PA coming up in a couple of weeks.. Nothing as far north as MA, as I would love to meet up with you and/or the Pirate and check some things out,,

    /mike
     
  12. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    MIKLDOM,
    I,ll get pic, thursday. Perhaps I just got lucky, put the $19 expansion pipe where it fit/ looked best. I was very happy with the power of my first bike, but what a differance with this pipe!
    If it aint broke dont fix it(couldn't be truer in this case). The pipe tucks in perfect with the frame. the tubing is 3/4 EMT.
    Yes I did form the flange of the filler with my needle nose, the best I could. I used plain 60/40 rosin core solder(electronic wiring solder). I used copper hanger wire for mounting the tank to the 1/8" backer plate.
     

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  13. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    Mikldom,
    As for vent look above for message regarding vent problem. That worked fine for me last season, no reason it won't work on my new tank.
     
  14. Randog707

    Randog707 New Member

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    Retmachinist,I love those tanks,how much for a 1gal aluminum one?.....Randy
     
  15. Sign Guy

    Sign Guy New Member

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    Great idea Russell, thanks for the tip. I've got 1 other idea I'm going to try first then yours.

    Here is a shot of my tank set up going to the engine. Picasa Web Albums - bdiver It's not pretty, but I'm going more for functionality right now since it is more of a work horse type bike, it'll be my daily commuter once I get all the kinks straightened out. I'll also cover the crate with sheet plastic that I use in making signs so you won't even see the gas tank and with my legs on the pedals the engine will hardly be noticeable. I'm going for the stealth look and think I can pull it off except for the noise of the thing but getting it through a secured gate at work with the engine turned off should be no problem.
     
  16. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    Do a search on apple juice tank or rocknstein originator of apple juice tank. Lots of good info
     
  17. mikldom

    mikldom New Member

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    I got an idea.. Let me float it by you.

    You know that the stock tank that comes with these kits does not have a separate vent. The cap fits just loose enough to allow air to enter to displace the fuel as it leaves. And, it also seals it pretty well that it does not get all over you when it sloshes around.

    would it be pratical to take the dremel (on a brand new tank, never had fuel in it), to cut the tank cap area and a flange, then solder that to a big soup or tomato can? Then, solder in a fitting at the bottom for the fuel outlet.

    I haven't asked, but does the solder hold up well to gasoline? I would think so.

    Thanks!
    /mike
     
  18. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    Mikldom,
    That should work fine, doesn't need much to vent the tank.
     

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