Alternate clutch lever mounting??

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by Dontwannawalk, Jan 11, 2010.

  1. Dontwannawalk

    Dontwannawalk Member

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    educate me, How do I post a question without links. I'm just an old foggy that wants some advice on how to go about converting a 21 speed into a street legal moped
     
  2. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Don,
    You just posted a question without a link. Ask away. What in particular do you need to know? And, welcome to the forum; lots of old fogies here, me encluded. You'll be able to post links after a few posts. We do that to keep the spammers at bay.
    Tom
     
  3. Dontwannawalk

    Dontwannawalk Member

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    OK, I have a 21 speed Mountain Bike that has the front shifter (3) on the left and the (7) shifter on the right with the brake levers and shifters as one unit. With this if I change the levers I have to buy new shifters too & from what I can find they will cost me more than the bike did in the first place. Is there an alternate mounting for the clutch lever that wouldn't be mounted on the handlebar? I would like to keep the shifting properties of the 21 speed and from what I can find about Iowa's laws regarding Mopeds, I may end up with more controls, lights,horns etc. cluttering the handle bar. I need some suggestions and to be pointed to the sources that can supply what I need.
    Thanks
     
  4. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    All of the following information is based on my feeling that you have chosen to install an in-frame 2 stroke engine kit. If this is incorrect please let me know what kit you have decided on. To help unclutter your bars, here's one alternative. Check this link for a dual pull brake lever.> Sick Bike Parts This combines front and rear brakes in one handlebar lever. They work great and are adjustable so you can choose the amount of force to each brake.
    Now lets think about your gears. Many, not all, but a lot of bikes will require the removal of the front derailer which will eliminate shifting the front sprocket size. The reason is because the engine will be mounted right where the derailer mounts. You asked to be educated so let me inform you here that normal pedaling as you've come to expect it will not be possible due to gear drag through the engine. Even when the clutch is disengaged the clutch and gears will rotate with the rear wheel. There is an appreciable amout of drag induced. Yes, you will be able to ride as before installing the engine but be prepared for a little more effort. The alternative is to remove the engine drive chain if you want to pedal normally. You can do this by using a master link in the drive chain. Generally speaking most motorized bicycle riders do not rely on the pedals much after installing the engine. You pedal to get up to engine start speed, engage the clutch and the engine takes over. Pedaling is reduced to starting from a dead stop and 'helping' the engine on very steep hills if you gear for normal riding. There is a lot of good information available here so take your time, do some reading and all of your questions will be answered. If you need help on a specific area please feel free to ask in the appropriate forum. Hope this gets you started. As for sources for parts, check the sponsors you see down both sides of this page. They are all reliable dealers who have been proven to be reputable.

    Tom
     
  5. Saddletramp1200

    Saddletramp1200 Custom MB Buiilder

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    2 Door is one of the best. But he is still, an old coot, (c)
     
  6. Dave31

    Dave31 Moderator
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    Dontwannawalk,

    You are now a active member and can post as many links as you wish :)
     
  7. Dontwannawalk

    Dontwannawalk Member

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    You're correct, I'm looking at a 48cc kit. Since the derailers are part of the brake levers on this bike I will still have to eliminate the original shifters to be able to put a dual brake lever on one side and the clutch on the other. I took a look & you're right, the derailer is mounted about where the motor will have to be mounted. So, is it feasible to eliminate the shifters altogether and use the bike as a one speed? If so, would it make sense to just shorten the chain to fit the middle front sprocket and the 2nd to 3rd rear sprocket? I'm not too hip on what you can & can't do with multi sprocketed setups on bikes. I had an old Sears single speed when I was a kid in the 50's & that was easy to take apart & put back together.
     
  8. Dontwannawalk

    Dontwannawalk Member

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    By the way, is that an "A" in your upper left hand corner, oh yea the dontwannawalk should really have ' in don't. I'm really Norm.
     
  9. professor

    professor New Member

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    Norm, I think you missed something- you replace the right brake lever with the dual deal (routing both brake cables to it) then you put the clutch on the left where the brake used to be.
     
  10. Dontwannawalk

    Dontwannawalk Member

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    Yea, thats the brakes on the right and the clutch on the left, correct?
     
  11. Dontwannawalk

    Dontwannawalk Member

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    I was originally trying to keep the shifters/brake levers(all one piece) and wanting to mount the clutch somewhere else but, i have now been convinced that I don't need a multi speed bike so, now my thinking is to eliminate the shifters & make it a one speed & not worry about the shifters. I just eliminate all of the original mess on the handlebars and add what I need, RIGHT??
     
  12. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Norm, (another Norm?),
    You can retain the rear cassett, or sprockets and still have several gears to choose from. The rear derailer,(I spell it in English because I'm in America and I'm not French) will act as a chain tensioner so there is no need to shorten the pedal chain. It will automatically take up the slack when you change sprockets with the rear derailer. By using the duel brake lever you'll have the clutch on one side, preferably the left, and both brakes, front and rear on the right along with the twist grip throttle. You'll loose one derailer control from the handlebars when you remove the front derailer. That should make your bars less cluttered and leave more room for those lights and horn you're required to have. Of course there's no requirement to mount those items on the bars. The headlight can be mounted to the steering tube or fork and the horn anywhere you can find to clamp it. Good luck and we're here for answers.
    Also you need to take a close look at the shift/brake controls that you say are one piece. I have not seen this type but that doesn't mean they don't exist. Many of them appear to be one unit when in fact they are simply installed very close together with no seperation making them look that way. The Schwinn Jaguar with a seven speed twist grip shifter is an example. At first glance it looks as if the brake lever and the shifter are made together but they do came apart and can be moved and used seperately.

    Tom
     
    #12 2door, Jan 12, 2010
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2010
  13. Dontwannawalk

    Dontwannawalk Member

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    Thanks, I'll take another look at the shifters this evening to be sure they won't separate from the levers.
    Norm
     
  14. BarelyAWake

    BarelyAWake New Member

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    Another potential alternative that while it won't reduce clutter - works well enough for me and I actually quite like it ;)

    [​IMG]

    I never use more than two fingers on the front brake anyway and it's not as far over as it appears in the pic...
     
  15. Dontwannawalk

    Dontwannawalk Member

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    Tom, you are correct again, The Shifter is attached to the brake lever bracket. I'll most likely have to drill a hole through the handle bar & get a longer fine thread screw. to attach the shifter unless there's enough room on the new brake lever housing to attach it.
     
  16. Dontwannawalk

    Dontwannawalk Member

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    BarleyAWake,
    Am I looking at the left side with the clutch next the grip and the front brake mounted farther in on the bar?
     
  17. rkorson4209

    rkorson4209 New Member

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    I have trigger shifters and can't get them to fit right with the throttle
     
  18. BarelyAWake

    BarelyAWake New Member

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    Yeppers Dontwannawalk, the clutch being closer to the grip but angled down makes it easy to pull and hold in while using the front brake simultaneously with just a finger or two.

    I've gotten a dual brake lever for my next build (vintage, so I too wanted to keep the clutter to a minimum)... but I'm not 100% sure I like it, I really like having individual control over my front and rear brakes... mebbe I'll get used to it *shrug*
     
  19. Flight Risk

    Flight Risk Member

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    I used a 21 speed bike like you describe and was able to keep all original controls and gearing. When stopping I can use both brakes until I need to pull in the clutch, then use just the rear brake. The engine mounts right above the front derailer, but you instalation may vary.

    Rod
     
  20. Dontwannawalk

    Dontwannawalk Member

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    Thanks for the input. Did you put the brake lever in the same position as barelyawake showed in the picture he sent? I think that may be the route I try to go. The Diameter on my diagonal (front mount on the frame is 1 & 3/8"). and the seat post housing is 1 & 1/8". Can you give me an idea if I'll need an oversize mount for this or do the standard ones fit these measurements? I'm still putting together components before ordering the motor kit, Taking it slow and trying to get all my ducks in a row.
     

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