$4 sissy bar

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle Welding, Fabrication and Paintin' started by Agreen, Jul 26, 2015.

  1. Agreen

    Agreen Member

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    I learned a new trick!

    [​IMG]

    Weld a cap on one end of 1/2" conduit, and a nut on the other. I used 1/2 nuts and bolts. Fill the pipe with dry sand. Keep tamping the sand down until you can pack no more in. Thread the bolt in the end with the welded on nut. This packs the sand super tight. Now, bend at your will! I used a piece of 4" pipe scrap to form the sissy bar. It makes beautiful kinkless curves. I then cut the bar to length and drilled mounting holes.

    [​IMG]

    I did this because my rear rack fell off. It had ammo cans mounted to either side and was super wobbly. It fell off while riding and really irked me. I also wanted a more comfortable seat, so im working on building a pseudo banana style saddle. Sort of cafe style, sort of banana. The battery will mount under the seat now, so no more ammo cans.
     
  2. Agreen

    Agreen Member

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    And I'm out of ideas. I thought once I got going it would come to me. Not the case.

    I just tried making a seat base from plywood, and before I even mounted it I thought about how much stress it would see under my butt. I flexed the plywood and snapped it in half. OSB is not the answer. Might need some MDF reinforced with steel underneath.

    I would like the seat to contour to the tank as well. What I'm trying to avoid is the ridiculous look of a banana seat all high up in the air. I was thinking that some split 2" PVC might do the trick on that, but I don't really think it would turn out right if I had 4 different materials bodged together.

    Could use some inspiration.
     
  3. xseler

    xseler Well-Known Member

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    I wonder if you could use a sectioned piece of 2" or 3" PVC pipe as the 'backbone of your seat design.............

    With the 45* elbows and 90* elbows, you'd have a good amount of flexibility in the basic design.

    Just typing out loud.....:D

    (Sorry, didn't see your bottom comment!)
     
  4. MotoMagz

    MotoMagz Active Member

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    Could you weld a base out of some small angle iron? Then weld a couple pieces of flat bar across for a base. Then go to a place that sells foam. We hBe the Foam Factory here in Mi. They have all types that can be good with a electric fillet knife,files and sand paper. Then you can cover it with material of your choice. I'm thinking the base would be much smaller than the foam top..kinda
    like a muffin top. So you would be carving bottom of seat (foam) to fit into the base/angle iron...then glue......wow I got to much sun today..lol do ya get what I'm thinking?? Just a idea!.
     
  5. buba

    buba Member

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    GREEN

    google max hazan-- check out his seat on one of his creations-
    a nice piece of hard wood sculpted to your derriere will not crack and your sissy bar makes for your support use a few!

    ride safe
     
  6. msrfan

    msrfan Active Member

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    I've seen some nice strong seat bases made from skateboards and water skis.
     
  7. curtisfox

    curtisfox Well-Known Member

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    Good idea msrfan, i see them at garage sale all the time,be a good solid seat.........Curt
     
  8. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    I like your idea of using a bolt to pack the sand. Very clever indeed.

    I'm not trying to toot my own horn here just offering an idea for building a custom saddle.

    In an old build thread I detailed building a seat frame. It was formed from 3/8" bar stock with 1/8" X 2" flat stock cross bracing. A local upholstery supply house carries what they call 'motorcycle foam'. It is very high density stuff. Using 2" thickness gives a soft but firm ride and will retain the shape you form into it.

    The seat build starts on page three and there is some photos of the upholstery job on page ten. http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=44276&page=3

    Tom
     
  9. Agreen

    Agreen Member

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    Thank you all for the inspiration. I took a little of each idea, you guys are great.

    What I came up with is simple and elegant. I am going to upholster it as soon as my sewing machine is returned. I made the structure underneath the board from 2 pieces of leftover conduit, then cut a 1/2" thick piece of red oak to the shape I wanted. It's held on with conduit straps. Nice and SOLID!

    [​IMG]
     
  10. buba

    buba Member

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    Greenie

    good job!!!

    ride safe
     
  11. Agreen

    Agreen Member

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    First time attempt at upholstery. Tan saddle vinyl with green piping. It's hard! Didn't turn out too bad, but i definitely won't be doing this for a living quite yet. Still, not too bad for a first.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Agreen

    Agreen Member

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    Here is how I fabbed the frame:

    [​IMG]
     
  13. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    I wouldn't be ashamed to show that job to anyone! You did good. Looks better than my sad attempt at sewing. I'm like you; I wouldn't want to do it for a living either.

    Tom
     
  14. Agreen

    Agreen Member

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    Ha-ha, thanks Tom. I watched a YouTube video on upholstering a motorcycle seat and learned all their tricks.

    https://youtu.be/8nVyPiPvR2g

    I just have to get more experience at using the machine. Everything ended up lop-sided.

    Total cost:
    1x 5' section of 1/2" conduit - $2 (Lowes)
    1/2" nuts and bolts - $1(Lowes)
    1/2" x6" x24" red oak plank - $6 (Lowes)
    1/2 yard of brown vinyl - $5 (JoAnn fabric)
    Green piping - $2 (JoAnn fabric)

    I did find the padding at work. It's 1" cold lagging that I cut to the right size. Very comfortable, as it would turn out.

    Time to go mount the battery again.
     
    #14 Agreen, Aug 2, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2015
  15. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Wow, I just watched that video. The lady sure makes it look easy. I have to wonder how many years she's been doing that.

    Thanks for that link. I might have to try another seat cover. The last one I did turned out okay but it looks like an amateur did it. Oh, wait, an amateur did do it.

    Tom
     
  16. Agreen

    Agreen Member

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    It did look way too easy. Which is why i tried it in the first place. Otherwise I'd have done something stupid and bought a nanner.
     

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