Misfit Board Tracker

Following along with interest, Ralph. 170mm dropout measurement is common fat tyre frame width.
Month or so back I followed up a link for this frame/tank on AliExpress who were listing it as having no minimum order quantity. I identified the frame as being the same one offered as a roller by cnol in their eBay listings. As a satisfied customer of cnol's, I have no issues with the quality of the frame/tank/forks they sell (but we all know they are not the manufacturers). The AE seller emailed me back saying they presently had no inventory but were aiming to have stocks in time for the big China Expo in March. I received an email from them today saying that despite Corona virus pandemic, the Expo was still scheduled to go ahead. Presumably, production is gearing up for this event. AE's listed pricing/shipping from China to me in the UK was very competitive.
Imagine this frame mated with one of those scaled-down 70% vintage looking 350cc v-twin motors...

Look at this 212 build, give you some what idea of gear ratio. https://motorbicycling.com/threads/1912-excelsior-tribute.64296/ Also Mr.B’s Excelsier 09 build .............Curt

Here is a awesome set up for a great price https://www.ebay.com/itm/best-gas-f...720641?hash=item4b60ed7001:g:tb8AAOSw2HxclVZa

Belt primary is the way to go. Couple bikes I helped build/have my old parts

Nice job on the combination jack shaft and motor mount Ralph. You've a lot of simple wiggle room for sprocket/ chain line adjustment with this mount and the extra wide rear triangle. Nice solutions for running a really wide tire.

Rick C.

Just want to mention I had trouble with those kind of pillow bearing holders being too loose. They stamp cut the metal and some were allowing after time wearing the sealed bearing, had the bearing spin the outer inside the pillow bearing holder. I bought a pack of ten bearings and change them sooner than 5 years. The washers I used as spacers I had to be sure they would not press up against but only the inner bearing rim, else metal is scraping on metal. Split collar bearings where they only clamp on the jackshaft are best, I don't ever use the kind that have a set screw hit the jackshaft's surface. I know when set screw is used that sits on key in keyway of jackshaft that is OK, just not on the round. If a gear or clutch has two setscrews I just use the one only at the keyway. The result otherwise is a heck of a time removing parts to replace when worn, like bearings. When I used the split collars and also drilled and tapped jackshaft end with bolt that self tightens due to engine rotation on right hand thread, I'm not worrying about loosening.

I also tap the axle for end bolts on jack shaft setups and set screws do some damage. Good tips.

Rick C.

Whats more is the belt and pulley are more forgiving for the slight angle I had from rear wheel sheave to a pulley on a jackshaft, as compared to chain sprocket. If you make your frame rear or modify it could be true without any skew. Spreading drop outs evenly and also getting dropouts still parallel by adjusting afterward I have heard of and I never really got that right, but it works. So I had to keep tire from rubbing and also have at the same time the nuts on the rear wheel axle in the drop outs fully back in the drop outs. Before I added on each side of all pulleys those split collars (sandwiching in), I had one pulley that was supposed to hold the jackshaft in place slip. The Tension of the v-belt and the slight sideways angle of the belt a-skew had the whole shaft slip sideways after a while of using it. Was not sure what the scraping sound was riding a trail. The shaft no longer was using a bearing on one side. It instead was on the pillow bearing holder (That D shape metal thing). I got a new jackshaft as the grove in it was shallow, but still significant. My mistakes I learned the hard way. Since your building a lot from scratch, having a large enough adjustment for belt an or chain is best. A back idler pulley that I can adjust for v-belt worked out the minimal adjustment on the engine platform. I've replaced chain and masterlink without problem, but the offset half links I have found some to be a bit loose fitting. When I could not get acceptable to me more of those, I now have gotten the 1.5 length kind that will require 2 masterlinks. This type does not have that tiny cotter pin which you cannot buy separately. Keeping the ends of the tiny cotter pin for interfering was my concern too. The 1.5 Link is all press fit assembled. When adding the 1.5 length, that equates to a half link when you press out 1 of the chain links. Never had the chain jump gears, but when I saw the half link that when new was originally slightly loose (the whole package of three all the like), while doing lube maintenance and inspection, the half link was not straightening out when past either gear. It remained slightly bent. When I see how the 1.5 Link that is just like the rest of the chain wears, I can report on that.

Looking good. Everything MT said about those mounts is right. I have used them for pedal related hardware. Mine were loose.

What’s your seat tube wall thickness? It lists it as 1.2mm or 1/16” but those numbers are a 1/64th apart....

Ralph hop said:

The jackshaft mount I made didn't fit by a long shot, I forgot to take into account the wide chain stays on the frame. With clearance for a right side sprocket being so small I'll have about a 1:1 pedal ratio with the moped freewheel. Pedals would be all for show and I'd always be thinking about the freewheel back there roaring at a steady speed. Dare I say it? I'm thinking of using the bottom bracket as a jack shaft to the right side. There's room for a seven inch pulley on the left and three or four on the right and then back to a right side mounted whizzer sheave of fifteen inches. Other option would be a jackshaft plate from the engine but still not sure. Also front Mount pic. Yes, painted the clutch brass color.. View attachment 104159

Click to expand...

Was there interference such that the jackshaft and associated parts will not fit? I had to say, because if it is the width laterally that things don't line up, you may see what I did using sprockets attached to longer keyed shaft that comes in not just 10, 12, 14... inch whatever might work. AGK website sells and other vendors. If in big city many supply houses have up to 3 ft and you cut yourself custom. There is a draw back if the area is where foot pegs are and with straddling and feet on foot pegs comfortably.

Pictures:
From early stages when twin jackshafts had a myriad of option on ratios from 15 to 37 to 1 ratio. 37 was for parade speed, but wasteful on gas. 20 was best trails with some hills. 12 ratio I am now forced to use till I can get an older 3hp that fits the clutch right on the engine back running better. Crazyily now I use a one to one ratio to connect a 3.5hp Briggs to one of the two jackshafts to make a live jackshaft to fit a clutch, since the clutch needs a longer crankshaft than is on that engine. This prohibits having greater than 20 to 1 ratio. I use it but hills are not easy sometimes.

https://motorbicycling.com/attachments/img14764-20130119-1650-jpg.55471/

https://motorbicycling.com/attachments/img_4996-jpg.65395/

Had the fork been used on another bike and the steer tube cut?

Bottom bracket and reduction gear isn't exotic & works great, looks clean. Some have problems building the reduction gear and getting it right. I've built using both and been satisfied with the results. My electric V-twin uses a jack shaft, but the bottom bracket/reduction gear would have been much simpler for me to fab, just wanted what I wanted, not because one works better.


Rick C.