Clutch Slipping

ezrider · Jun 28, 2017

Haven't had much luck yet with these tips:

# 1. How to Adjust Clutch if signs of slipping or squealing is encountered:

A) Disengage clutch by pulling handle bar clutch lever inward and lock into catch lock.
B) Remove right side engine clutch cover and remove small locking screw on center *Clutch Adjust
Nut.
C) Pull clutch arm on left rear engine inward. Back off *Clutch Adjust Nut ¼ turn counterclockwise.
D) Release handlebar clutch lever and check for slight 1/16” free-play on engine clutch arm.
E)Readjust *Clutch Adjust Nut as required to get required 1/6” clutch arm free play.
F) Tighten *Clutch Adjust Nut on clutch plate clockwise until just snug.
G) Then re-install small locking screw in outer edge of *Clutch Adjust Nut .
H) Good idea to place a small gob of grease at gear mesh area. Use grease sparingly! Then replace
cover.
I) Squirt light grade oil down clutch cable sheathing to reduce friction and make for easy lever pull.
Cutch Cover removed: Clutch Adjust Nut and Lock screw

______________________

Adjusting the clutch:
1. Adjust clutch cable so there is only a little bit of slack in the inner wire when the hand lever is released all the way out.
2. Remove gear case cover from right side of engine.
3. Remove lock screw from clutch outer plate. It's the little screw that fits into the notches on the edge of the center nut (called a flower nut).
4. Squeeze in clutch hand lever until it touches the hand grip. Hold it in with the lock button or some tape or a piece of wire, zip-ty, ect.
5. While pushing in on the outer clutch plate with one hand, tighten the flower nut until snug, just using your fingertips. Do not use pliers, ect.
6. Unscrew flower nut 1/2 to 1 turn out, aligning a notch on the flower nut with the hole in the outer clutch plate that the lock screw goes into.
7. Install lock screw but don't tighten it just yet.
8. Remove tape or wire from hand lever and let it release all the way out.
9. Tighten lock screw for flower nut.
10. Adjust clutch cable if necessary to give just a little free play to the inner cable when the hand lever is all the way out. You should be able to wiggle the clutch release arm a little.
11. Install gear case cover and test ride. Every clutch is a little different.
You may have to fine tune the adjustment of the flower nut by a few notches.

Anyone else have any other better ideas tips or suggestions ? Continually adjusting the cable, flower nut, lock screw without any effect it starting to get a bit frustrating.

crassius · Jun 28, 2017

none of those mention that the goal is to get the clutch just barely free while the lever is in locked position

check cable, lock lever, tighten flower nut till motor tries to move when bike is rolled forward, back off flower nut one notch, release lever and re-check cable play - repeat as needed

these steps and a lot of discussion are here on the forum in 100 or so places

note also that the amount of 'grab' the clutch has depends mostly on the distance between lock/unlock of the lever and some very long levers lock so early that they will never get good clutch tension (sometimes filing the housing that stops lever from opening more will help that)

ezrider · Jun 29, 2017

Don't know how many times I adjusted and turned clockwise and counterclockwise the Clutch Adjust Nut . Just about at my wit's end with this thing.

crassius · Jun 29, 2017

you mention "slipping or squealing", but didn't say exactly what is happening

what seems to be wrong with clutch?

ezrider · Jun 30, 2017

Actually I meant the clutch 'doesn't engage.' Anyway, the clutch pads are still clean and dry, and the clutch plate cover moves in the required 1/8" distance. Why it still doesn't engage when the arm level is released....is still the big mystery.

Chaz · Jun 30, 2017

You do need to adjust the cable as well as the flower nut.
Here's a good sticky to check out:
https://motorbicycling.com/threads/clutch-cable-and-clutch-adjusting-procedures.22726/

crassius · Jun 30, 2017

if you mean that the back wheel remains free spinning, then you are probably missing a woodruff key at one end of one of the shafts

ezrider · Jul 1, 2017

How do you get at the woodruff key ??

crassius · Jul 1, 2017

there is one at each end of each shaft, drive sprocket, clutch hub, small bevel gear, and mag rotor

if one of these is not turning with the shaft, take it off and check that key is still good

drive sprocket key is most commonly bad/missing, followed by small bevel gear key, others are rarely a problem

ezrider · Jul 3, 2017

Just what do you have to go through....to take the shaft off ?

crassius · Jul 3, 2017

shaft stays there, one takes the part (sprocket, gear, or clutch hub) off the shaft to replace the key - the puller that comes with the kit will pull all three

ezrider · Jul 3, 2017

I don't have this so called: 'puller' that comes with a kit. Where do you get one ? Sure wish there was a decent Tube vid that shows how this is done.

crassius · Jul 3, 2017

puller looks like this

should have gotten one with the kit

only thing that can be learned from vids is how one guy did one thing in one situation - there is no 'one right way' for any of this stuff

note: some asshats sell the kits but keep the pullers to sell later when you're stuck
google for '80cc puller' and you'll find a lot

ezrider · Jul 4, 2017

crassius said:
puller looks like this

should have gotten one with the kit

only thing that can be learned from vids is how one guy did one thing in one situation - there is no 'one right way' for any of this stuff

note: some asshats sell the kits but keep the pullers to sell later when you're stuck
google for '80cc puller' and you'll find a lot

__________________________________________

Ebay has a puller for a few bucks, but no kit. Same with Amazon. Do you NEED a kit along with the puller for this to work ? All I can find on the web are pullers only. Let me know so I can order from Amazon asap.

crassius · Jul 4, 2017

I was referring to the complete 2-stroke kit that all the parts came in to build your bike - since you have a built bike, you only need the puller.

ezrider · Jul 4, 2017

crassius said:
I was referring to the complete 2-stroke kit that all the parts came in to build your bike - since you have a built bike, you only need the puller.

Thanks crassius. I'm thinking of buying the part from this site. Here's the only how to instructions that I could find there:

"how to use: It comes with two parts, the larger part attaches to the gears by screwing the large end into the prethreaded holes. the smaller one is then inserted into the larger at the side with inner and outer threads; then, you screw both pieces together to force the gear off the shaft."

https://www.pistonbikes.com/product-p/eptpt.htm

The only question I have with this, is once the gear is taken off...then how do you put it back on again ?

Also I suspect that I maybe missing the small clutch actuator bearing behind the bucking bar.

crassius · Jul 4, 2017

that ball is smooth & shiny - if you stick a tiny screw driver in there you'll feel if it is round and slippery

putting parts on is just carefully sliding them over the woodruff key, then tighten with the nut on shaft

ezrider · Jul 5, 2017

So the shaft comes out the other side along with the large Clutch Bevel Gear ??

crassius · Jul 5, 2017

one usually leaves the shaft in the motor unless it is damaged too - the sprocket comes off one side & clutch comes off other side

ezrider · Jul 8, 2017

crassius said:
one usually leaves the shaft in the motor unless it is damaged too - the sprocket comes off one side & clutch comes off other side

This video briefly mentions a gear puller, but shows how the shaft can be pounded out with a block and hammer:

Just hope I don't discover the same kind of shaft horrors this dude did.

Clutch Slipping

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