Problems

C

crotchrocket

New Member
I've got a schwinn cruiser with the 80cc Raw Motor which I've owned for 2 weeks now. I've already replaced the throttle(plastic piece broke that holds the cable) and cable(just because)and readjusted everything. But literally everyday there is something going wrong with this thing. Carb leaks, chain tensioner won't stay put(which of course kicks the chain at whatever speed I might be going), yesterday I blew a spoke and after looking at the wheel its warped and upon looking even closer the engine mounts are half broke! AGHHH! Any help would be appreciated. Are there any kits to replace all of these crap parts I have? As far as I'm concerned the only good things I have are a bike(minus rear wheel now), a motor, a gas tank, and nice Kawasaki motorcycle throttle. Everthing else I am questioning. Has annyone else had any of these problems?
:-||
 
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Don't feel like the "Lone Ranger" with all the problems. These kits can be a pain. Once you figure out what works and what don't, how to install with some insight to what to be aware of...it will work fine. Read around....plenty of trouble shooting tips on here.
 
Oh boy, sounds like you are having fun. Motor mounts breaking? What part are you talking about? You have to make sure the motor is sitting properly in the bikes frame. You can't have a sloppy fit and expect the mounts to pull it in place. That just puts an unnecessary strain on the mounts.
The chain is a problem many have, including myself. I had to get a new rear wheel on my very first try at starting the bike. I ended up getting rid of that stupid chain tensioner and was able to cut my chain to the proper length. Others drill a small hole in the chain stay and screw the bracket to the frame to stop it from swinging into the spokes.
I think most carbs leak but that is why we always turn the gas off when parked. You could have a look at your float adjustment but I'd worry about getting the bike running first.
I wish you could post a few pics of that "broken mount" and I hope it's not the engine block that is broke.
 
^^^^
Its not block, engine runs fine. its the bolt on the right side that holds the bracket together, I would rather replace the whole mount and a lot of other parts because I know the parts that came with the kit suck. I was thinking of yaking some links out and forgoing the the tensioner pulley, the chain is already stretched. The screw idea seems more simple but might effect the integrity? Anyways, what I'm really fishing for is, what are the best parts and who sells them. I don't want replacement or OEMs of what I already have(which suck). Especially: Wheels & Engine mounts or even a whole new install kit(minus motor)...whats the best? I didn't build this bike but I wish I had, now I rebuild her rather than throw her in the compacter....
 
Ok, I've found a kit that replaces all the bolts and mount. I'm really having trouble finding information on wheels. I've read post after post and still nobody talks about rear wheel specifics and the hub/spoke bracket thing is there another option?. I just need to be pointed in the right direction...dead ends suck..again any help is much appreciated
 
sorry to hear Crotch that you are having so many issues. Dont take offense but my guess it is your skills at making this motor work for you and your bike. I never even knew it was possible to mount a motor on a bicycle until about a month ago and I was doing a google search and accidentally found one. I got both my kits from Bikeberry and my first build took me about 7-9 hours and my 2nd only took 4 hours.

The only issue I had was on my first build I dropped the motor off the bike (clumsy) and I broke the spark plug boot , so I just hard wired it to the plug, and then my chain broke due to an alignment issue. But got those 2 things fixed and off I went , I put over 60 miles on my first build and they have been trouble free.

But also I have alot of experience with small engines and welding , so If something dont work I will just weld it into place or use a bigger hammer to make it work. LOL

But like was stated earlier try to read alot and educate yourself on the in's and outs of these moters and all the stuff that goes with them, I personally do not feel any of the parts are junk that came with my kit, I didn't pay top dollar so I feel I got a really good bargain for my money, and both of my builds work as well as I can expect them too.

good luck in the future at getting your MB to run and be trouble free.
 
I wish I built this bike myself, I bought it complete...I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I've taken apart everything from a 350V8 to a 35cc tanaka motor. I'm not asking really for the how-to's, I just want to know where to get better parts from, all of the ads on this site only have oem replacement parts which I don't want. Seriously any links to any parts sites you know of. If they sell a good product and you or somebody you know uses it let me know. Thanks everyone!
 
yea 2door I been waiting for the "manic mechanic" to get those in stock . I want one real bad .

@Crotch, I really dont think there are very many after market parts that are gonna significantly make too much difference from what I have seen. sure there are many slight modifications , but you have to realize this is a very very basic 2 stroke. If you want more quality try a honda 4 stroke, you will be happy with those motors.And judgeing by what you said you have rebuilt as far as engines you will figure some good stuff to do to your build.

good luck
 
Tom, thanks for the link and reply. I will put a screw into the tensioner pully bracket, sounds like a good fix as others have recomended it. I definately like the different sprocket from Mainic but he's sold out right now(LOL his shop is only an hour away maybe I can get he to make me one). I want to replace the wheel because its already busted 2 spokes and is warped bad. I'm going to order a HUSKY T-124/244 Rear Wheel for 17mm axle and hopefully that will hold up better. And don't worry, I'm now giving up yet, ive got $400 and all day/night in this forum invested in this bike already and its gonna work if I have to fabricate my own drive system. And thanks everyone for your help and patience! I was hoping there was more standardization of parts but I'm coming to realise this is still kind of a "new frontier" Like I said before, the engine is fine and runs strong, everything else I feel needs an overhaul.
 
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you can get the metric fasteners at a store like Fastenal or even at a napa store or the local ace hardware take the offending part with you and size it up to the new part.
For new wheels I went to a bike shop and $70.00 later I had a new front wheel and new back wheel my old rat bikes wheels rims were warped and made the brakes grab the wheels were true but the rims edges were bad replaced old steel rims with aluminum ones. Some thing I should have done is went to Tqrget or Wallmart and bought a cheap bike just for the wheels and then I would have had extra parts. Hind sight is 20/20.
Norman
 
^^^^
Yeah I decided 2 nights ago to just take the whole thing apart, I took 2 links out of the new motorcycle chain (screw the tensioner...I don't need it) replaced the plug and wire, ordered new motor mounts/studs, HDwheels/tires, Grubee Hub, 44 tooth sprocket, lights, speedo, generator, and brakes. And since it's stripped I'll be painting her as well, gimme a week or so and I'll post sum picks of it done.
 
crotchrocket said:
^^^^
Yeah I decided 2 nights ago to just take the whole thing apart, I took 2 links out of the new motorcycle chain (screw the tensioner...I don't need it)
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haha I just did the same thing, and I rode it around for a few miles and realized my chain slap was still significant. so what I did was put a twist in it like 2door suggested and then I cut the bracket down some and welded it into place since I have a steel frame. Now my tenshioner is a permanent and trouble free .
 
crotchrocket said:
^^^^
Yeah I decided 2 nights ago to just take the whole thing apart, I took 2 links out of the new motorcycle chain (screw the tensioner...I don't need it) replaced the plug and wire, ordered new motor mounts/studs, HDwheels/tires, Grubee Hub, 44 tooth sprocket, lights, speedo, generator, and brakes. And since it's stripped I'll be painting her as well, gimme a week or so and I'll post sum picks of it done.
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Yes keep some form of tensioner on the chain...if not if its to tight...bearings in wheel will go...as far as wheels...I use steel wheel...niagra cycle or bike parts usa have tthem...25 for the back...withe 12 gauge spokes if you get the 26 X 2.125...fron is the same if you use 2.125...I use the 1.75 withe 1.95 tires and a solid inter tube from walmart...no flats...the back cannt except the solid innnertube because its 2.125...heavy spoke are good for the back...now i use a 26 X 1.95 tire on the 2.125 rim...that creates clearance for the chain...theres alot to these toys...patience is the answer...but the fun out ways the labor...if you have any ? please feel free to ask...I'll respond...hang in there...Dennisdance1
 
C.R.--Years ago when the only bikes were Harley's or Limeys you could tell what had been where by the gas/oil stain in the driveway.
When Hondas showed up we were not impressed.You couldn't tell who had one.
It's true, unless you do it it never seems to be right.
Hang in there Tiger.Your up to bat next.
Steve.
 
Thanks for all the support guys, things seem to be moving in the right direction,
my wheels and grubee hub are being shipped, got my lights and speedo wired in and the engine remounted to my satisfaction but somewhere along the way I broke the cheap plastic cap that covers the plug. I noticed that there is a lot of advice to replace the plug wire and plug but my magneto box seams to be seemless and unopenable unless I cut it(don't worry I wont lol). How did you guys replace the wire? open the box and re-wire, cut the wire soder/re-sheath, or just replace the plug cap? Also what size model NGK plug should I use? I go to auto stores and they can't match the old plug, and hardware/lawnmower stores seem to only have oem stock plugs. Will any plug work as long as its gapped .02 -.022 and fits?
 
CrotchRocket,
The plug wire simply unscrews out of the CDI (coil) there is a small screw like part inside and the new wire is screwed back in place of your old one. A word of advice here; the kit supplied wire is better than what you probably will find at the auto parts stores for these engines. Most new wire available today from the parts stores are resistance wire, sometimes called TVRS wire. It has no metal conductor and relies on a carbon impregnated thread to carry the current. The resistance is much higher than a copper/ metal conductor. There is some high performance plug wire that has a very small wire but is still higher resistance than your original. Look for it at auto high performance supply houses. I don't like the spark plug boot that comes with these kits or the way it attaches to the plug. I would replace it with a good automotive style and I go so far as to solder the wire to the metal clip inside the boot. You will want to look for a NGK 6B-HS plug. (I think that's the right number) there is also a 5B plug that runs a little cooler. I like the six at my altitude.
Tom
 
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Nevermind about the wire and box guys, I finally found that the wire literally just screws onto a screw on each end which is just screwy if you ask me lol...ok ill stop. And I did read a post saying that the original was better than those resistance wires. I will either keep it or I already called my local motorcycle shop and asked if they have any copper plug wire and they do. Also for the guys looking for copper plug wires on that thread couldn't you use any heavy duty electric copper wire from say home depo? I'll definately solder the old wire back into a new plug or just get a nice thicker wire from my motorcycle shops storage/graveyard(They love it when I bring my toys in, I also have a BladeZ scooter with 35cc Tanaka...runs like a mule though). Thanks for the NGK model number as well Tom I might go for the ngk5B-HS as I am in florida and it is always hot!!!

Thanks,
Matt
 
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