Carb. float levels

cyclepro101 · #1 06-15-2009, 01:40 AM

Has anyone messed around with the carb float level? I have had it set with the float above and below the level of the juet with the carb upside down and noticed very little diff.

Steve

Junster · #2 06-15-2009, 02:36 AM

Very low can give a lean condition, High a little rich. A little high is good it cuts down on leaning out from foaming due to vibration.

Masterm222 · #3 06-26-2009, 12:40 AM

I can't seem to get the needle to seal. Clean and adjust as much as I want the fuel level always seems to be above the gasket. Always way rich and can't get decent top end unless I almost shut off the gas. Suggestions? I tried a brand new carb from another kit and same thing!

cyclepro101 · #4 06-26-2009, 08:11 AM

Bend the 2 prongs down so the float does not go too high. Take the carb off and turn it upside down. Bemd the prongs so the float sits a couple of mm aboved the bottom of the jet.

Masterm222 · #5 06-26-2009, 08:25 PM

The problem is that the needle and seat doesn't seem to seal where ever I set the float level. (buy bending the tangs on the needle holder) I understand how to adjust the float level the normal way. I have probably rebuilt over 500 automotive carbs in my life so I understand the basics. masterm comes from years of my boss calling me Master-Michael. (master ASE certified) I can have the float adjusted exactly the same as on my other bike (that runs great on top end) and after running a short time if I loosen the two screws that hold the bowl gas pours out like it was full to the top. The fuel entering the carb is clear with no bubbles. The picture I attached shows my two bikes. Same 44t sprockets, same intake and exhaust gasket match porting, and same main jet size. I have been struggling to get the one on the left to keep up to the one with the rattle-can flame job. I have tried leaning and richening the main jet size, I swapped mufflers between the two, and I even tried an expansion pipe. That got it to get to 25mph in about 5 seconds but then it slows to 23 and stays there at WOT. The one with the flames now has a hose mounted carb due to foaming in the bowl. It used to only go 19mph before rubber mounting the carb. With the engine vibration the fuel entering the carb was just bubbles. Now it will run 30+ all day long. It just takes a while to get there! But that is another project I will address later.

cyclepro101 · #6 06-26-2009, 09:39 PM

For a few bucks I would just buy a new carb?

**Norman** · #7 06-26-2009, 09:44 PM

these engines are not known for their quality. One of your engines timing might be off a tad maybe even both. 70cc and 44 tooth rear sprocket they should hit about 32 to 34 mph easily.
Have you tried to seat the float needle with some polishing compound? sounds like the needle or seat is out of round. toothpaste will work believe it or not for polish.
you can test the needle and seat by hooking up a short piece of fuel line to the carb intake holding the carb upside down blow into the fuel line(fuel line in your mouth( if the needle and seat are working the weight of just the float should shut off your air pressure
Norman

Masterm222 · #8 06-26-2009, 09:45 PM

The few bucks option as in a new stock carb has already been tried. $70 or so for the 18mm mukini I found. (have not bought yet) I will try the polish technique, Never thought of that. I may also loosen the magnito and see if I can move it a little to advance the timing a degree or two. I know there is some play there because I had an engine apart B-4 to replace a failed crank bearing. I know this bike will do it because max speed recorded on the speedo is 33.6mph. Good tips, THANKS!!!