keyed ignition

there are ways to wire either type of switch (key on-contact closed or key off-contact closed) do you already have a switch?

Hi Mike,

The key switches that are being described here do not start the motor. They merely prevent the motor from being started (by pedaling) unless the key is in and turned to the on position. They work pretty much the same as the kill switch except that they are a key switch.

To start the bike motor without pedaling or moving you would need a starter motor and a battery.

It would depend upon what type of keyed switch you get. Is it normally closed or normally open?

I'm installing an electrical system on my bike and plan to have a key switch to keep people from starting the engine, turning on the lights, blowing the horn, etc. The attached diagram shows my current wiring, and what I intend to do.

I think most keyed "ignition" switches are Normally Open (NO), which means the switch is off until you turn the key to close the switch and turn things on. The keyed switch I'm using is made for a scooter that I purchased online from a scooter supply store. It comes with several copies of the key, and the key stays in the switch when in the on position (it wont fall out). My switch is NO and has four poles, so I can control four things with the same switch. But it only has two positions, on and off, so I can turn four things on and off at the same time. I'll use one pole (two wires) to open or close the circuit to the CDI so when the key is off, the CDI wont fire the spark plug. This will keep someone from starting the engine without the key (or hot wiring the bike). I'll use another pole of the key switch (two different wires) to control a main relay that will disconnect the 12V battery I'm going to use for the lights, etc. When the key switch is in the on position, the main relay will close connecting the battery to the rest of the electrical system. I need the main relay because it's not likely that the contacts of the key switch can handle the current that the horn will draw (20 amps); therefore, I can't run the main power circuit through the key switch.

The horn I'm going to use is a regular motorcycle or scooter horn that I ordered through a local motorcycle dealership. They had a thick parts catalog they found it in. It was only $10.54 with no shipping costs, which was less than I could find online. The horn is smaller and lighter than a car horn, but still puts out about 130 db of sound. Since it draws about 20 amps, I'll also control it with a relay that is controlled with the horn button on the handlebars.

After trying lots of options I didn't like, I made my headlight form a 12VDC, 20 Watt landscape flood light, a 4" dia. Schedule 10 PVC cap, a stainless steel clamp, and some aluminum bar stock (see photos).

That looks really good! Your schematic is excellent. It really doesn't get any simpler than that. Norman on the boards here makes a light as well that people seem to like. It doesn't draw nearly as much as your light/horn combo so it would probably work without a relay but it wouldn't be quite as bright.