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| Board Trackers and Vintage Motorized Bicycles Vintage enthusiast share your board trackers and other vintage motorized bicycle ideas and builds and replicas here |
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02-27-2009, 12:54 AM
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Motorized Bicycle Newbie
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 13
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Building a vintage look lighting system
Hello everyone, I have a vintage chrome headlight that I am having trouble with. The light will not stay on when i ride it. I would like to rebuild the interior of the light and install some new bulbs, possibly install an LED bulb to help with wear from vibration. Any suggestions would be totally appreciated. Thanks everyone.
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02-27-2009, 09:57 AM
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Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashtabula county, Ohio
Posts: 10,864
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Re: Vintage Bullet Headlight Rebuild
The grounding parts are probably bad if it won't stay on...a little sandpaper and checking connections id called for.
Can't help with the LED part, I am a looser when it comes to electronics...
__________________
If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.
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03-02-2009, 01:12 PM
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Motorized Bicycle Newbie
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 13
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Re: Vintage Bullet Headlight Rebuild
Thanks Joe. Even when the light is on it is pretty dim so i would like to replace the bulbs so I will have more light. The light shell really completes my bike though so i'm not willing to give in and buy a new light.
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03-02-2009, 01:23 PM
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Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashtabula county, Ohio
Posts: 10,864
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Re: Vintage Bullet Headlight Rebuild
Come on now, I know there are lighting experts out there that can help this guy!
Anyone?
__________________
If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.
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03-03-2009, 01:51 AM
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Motorized Bicycle Newbie
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Santa Cruz CA
Posts: 8
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Re: Vintage Bullet Headlight Rebuild
Im pretty good with electronics ( I do it for a living). let me know when you need help!
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03-03-2009, 01:20 PM
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Motorized Bicycle Newbie
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 13
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Re: Vintage Bullet Headlight Rebuild
Ok RC....here it comes. This is a vintage light with a high/low function with one bulb for each function. My goal is to power a tail light off of the power from the front light as well as each front light. The power source now is two D cell batteries but there is plenty of space in the shell of the front light for a retrofit for more power. I would like to retain the hi/low function as well as have the taillight come on through both of those cycles and go off when the headlight goes off. A new switch is mandatory because the old one is not able to withstand the vibrations of the motor bike. I was thinking a three way push button switch that would cycle through the three modes.(hi+tail, low+tail, off) New, bright, vibration resistant bulbs would be cool too. I know that is a lot but suggestions on any facet from somebody with a little electronics experience would be great. Thanks
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03-04-2009, 11:46 AM
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Motorized Bicycle Elite Member
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Valparaiso, IN
Posts: 626
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Building a vintage look lighting system
As you can see, my bike does not have what you would call a "modern" look. No commercially made lighting system I have seen fulfills my performance or cosmetic requirements. Even so-called "vintage" look lights are more '50s style than 1910 style. therefore, as always, i am building my own.
My system will have front and rear turn signals, a motorcycle bright headlight and a stop/tail light. All are bright enough to meet motorcycle requirements.
I have gathered some parts. As for the headlight, see the first pic below. It is a $17, cast aluminum lanscape spot from menards. It comes with a 50 watt halogen spot which is exactly what I want. In the display, it is on all day, but you can still touch it without getting burned. I have a 7.2 ah SLA battery ti run the whole system. That will run the headlight well over an hour and the tail and brake lights indefinitely.
I am looking into a charging system that will work when riding. No decisions on that yet.
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03-04-2009, 11:52 AM
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Motorized Bicycle Elite Member
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Valparaiso, IN
Posts: 626
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tail light
As for the tail light, I am using a clearance lamp I got at an auto parts store- pic below.
This light (as is standard on clearance lights) had a base for a single filament bulb. I cut it out (which held the bracket to the light housing). I then brazed a base for a dual filament lamp inside the housing and brazed the bracket back on. I am going to use a 1157 red LED replacement bulb for the stop/tail.
The second pic shows where the light will mount. It will replace the Bell bicycle light that is there now.
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03-04-2009, 12:01 PM
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Motorized Bicycle Elite Member
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Valparaiso, IN
Posts: 626
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Re: Building a vintage look lighting system
The turn signals are the real fun. These first two pics show where I will mount the turn signals. They will go on the ends of the round tube that is brazed to the leaf springs. The third diagram shows how they will mount.
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03-04-2009, 12:08 PM
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Motorized Bicycle Elite Member
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Valparaiso, IN
Posts: 626
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Re: Building a vintage look lighting system
And now the construction of the turn signals.
The first pic shows the raw materials. An end cap for 3/4" copper plumbing pipe, a copper plated steel hanger for 3/4" copper pipe, and an LED replacement bulb for a 3157 bulb in amber (red for rear).
I removed the circuit board and LEDs from the bulb mount. The plan is to mount just the board with LEDs inside the end cap. A 3/4" copper pipe end cap is very, very close to fitting the LEDs. I wanted something as compact as I could because I thought that a compact tail light would look more in proportion and turn signals had to be smaller than the tail light for the right aesthetic. I removed the LED assembly from the bulb body. Even with the LEDs removed, they didn’t quite fit in the end cap (moving up to a 1 inch cap would have worked, but didn’t look right to me). I used my Dremel with a medium sanding drum to trim the edge of the circuit board around the LEDs down- that was what was too big. I also used the Dremel to grind out the inside of the end cap and got plenty of clearance- why this is important in a minute.
I found some copper coated pipe hangers that are used for copper pipe. It is a “U” shaped piece that has a 1/4” hole at the top of the “U” for hanging. I spilt the “U” at the bottom so that I am left with 2 “J” shaped pieces. This will provide a hanger for 2 lights. I then rounded of the corners of the “J”s and the “J” fits around the end cap and leaves a tab sticking out the top to bolt to the strut identified in a previous post. I attached the “J” tab to the cap by soldering...which is a nice advantage to using copper.
Back to the LEDs- I soldered a wire lead onto each lead. I then coated the back with silicone...because, after all, the case is copper. Now, back to the clearance issue around the edge of the circuit board. As you may know, there is a thin copper layer in there and if that touches the copper, the LEDs will not work due to a short. I coated the edge of board with a skim of silicone and also did that inside the end cap- works fine.
I really like the look- these things are very small and elegant...if I do say so myself....fit the look of the bike, and will get the job done.
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