Mine fits in the other side of the bike that because is 2011 i note that older ktm 65 have the expansion the same side as your bike
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Building a Ht Motorized Bicycle or Three.
- Thread starter Theon
- Start date
That pipe and bike is for the case induced motor, so slowly plodding away at it.
School holidays here so been spending a bit more time with the kids.
Still havn't got down to see my folks, and that's were the mill is, have not been feeling up to the drive, and something always comes up.
Tempted to cut these cases with the Dremel.
Also tempted to get another RSE crank, but in a similar situation to Dave, have money but it's suppose to be going towards a new workshop! (If my carpenter Mate ever shows) So can't afford to spend too much or take too much time of work ATM.
I've not been that well, and jobs are starting to pile up ...
But the RSE crank will give better primary compression, and take a different thickness of plate to stuff my cases, So have been holding out a little there.
Still havn't quite got the Goat going, so would like to finish it off before I get into building up this next motor, and the Phantom still needs a few finishing touches...
So don't hold your breath!
School holidays here so been spending a bit more time with the kids.
Still havn't got down to see my folks, and that's were the mill is, have not been feeling up to the drive, and something always comes up.
Tempted to cut these cases with the Dremel.
Also tempted to get another RSE crank, but in a similar situation to Dave, have money but it's suppose to be going towards a new workshop! (If my carpenter Mate ever shows) So can't afford to spend too much or take too much time of work ATM.
I've not been that well, and jobs are starting to pile up ...
But the RSE crank will give better primary compression, and take a different thickness of plate to stuff my cases, So have been holding out a little there.
Still havn't quite got the Goat going, so would like to finish it off before I get into building up this next motor, and the Phantom still needs a few finishing touches...
So don't hold your breath!
I'm at the point where I'm measuring the distance between the flywheels and the case sides so I can get the right thickness metal plates to stuff my case. I got .125" on each side with the crank centered in the case so I was thinking about using .090" thick aluminum sheet to make the stuffing plates with, giving me .035" clearance between the case and the crank on each side, then I'll find some washers to take up the space on the crank to keep it from hitting the sides of the case.
Since I got the 1 piece flywheels without the removable balance plates on the sides I may also press in some rings inside each flywheel to occupy even more space if needed.
What I need to know next is what the ideal case compression ratio should be so I don't go too far with it.
I'm also really curious about these RSE cranks and if any U.S. vendors have them up for sale so I can avoid the high shipping cost from AU.
Yeah, right now my money has to stay in the bank just in case I find something that costs a little more than expected for rent. I got enough from one check to open up the shop I'm planning on, but I'll need to buy at least one lift right away since it doesn't have any lifts inside and a 4 post lift outside.. That lift is definitely usable, but I want one inside in case of bad weather etc, not to mention it's sooo much easier to get under a car when you can lift it over you than crawling under it on jack stands...
Anyway, if I get this particular shop, I'll probably have enough left over after all expenses to buy a small milling machine for my garage here at home and get another Tig welder that can do aluminum. The rest of the money will need to stay in the bank until business picks up or for backup funding in case I have a slow week so I can keep my mechanics and bills paid.
Right now I'm not working, but I'm not hurting either... I just gotta really watch where my money goes for the next few weeks.
I'll need to find out a little more on this case compression and how thick I need to make my plates so I can order the right thickness aluminum, but like mentioned, I'm also curious about these RSE cranks so I might need to buy more than 1 size aluminum sheet so I can re stuff later.
Since I got the 1 piece flywheels without the removable balance plates on the sides I may also press in some rings inside each flywheel to occupy even more space if needed.
What I need to know next is what the ideal case compression ratio should be so I don't go too far with it.
I'm also really curious about these RSE cranks and if any U.S. vendors have them up for sale so I can avoid the high shipping cost from AU.
Yeah, right now my money has to stay in the bank just in case I find something that costs a little more than expected for rent. I got enough from one check to open up the shop I'm planning on, but I'll need to buy at least one lift right away since it doesn't have any lifts inside and a 4 post lift outside.. That lift is definitely usable, but I want one inside in case of bad weather etc, not to mention it's sooo much easier to get under a car when you can lift it over you than crawling under it on jack stands...
Anyway, if I get this particular shop, I'll probably have enough left over after all expenses to buy a small milling machine for my garage here at home and get another Tig welder that can do aluminum. The rest of the money will need to stay in the bank until business picks up or for backup funding in case I have a slow week so I can keep my mechanics and bills paid.
Right now I'm not working, but I'm not hurting either... I just gotta really watch where my money goes for the next few weeks.
I'll need to find out a little more on this case compression and how thick I need to make my plates so I can order the right thickness aluminum, but like mentioned, I'm also curious about these RSE cranks so I might need to buy more than 1 size aluminum sheet so I can re stuff later.
unfortunately .035" and .125" don't mean much to me without a bit of thought, But I used 4mm plates each side of my RSE crank, as opposed to 1.5mm plates in my other motor with a standard crank.
.040 is 1mm I know that. and I had around 1mm clearance after the cases were stuffed.
It could all be in previous pages?
.040 is 1mm I know that. and I had around 1mm clearance after the cases were stuffed.
It could all be in previous pages?
I just looked back at page 2, and it says I used 5mm plates, but I'm pretty sure they were 4mm.
4mm = about .160 which is a bit more than I got clearance for... since 1mm (actually .035") clearance on each side sounds about right for mine if I use the .090" plates...
It's late over here so I'll measure everything again for sure before ordering any metal.
I'm thinking more about the case compression ratio I should target for, but since there's a pretty good diference between your clearances and mine, simply copying your numbers won't work, other than getting the clearance between the flywheels and the plates. I'll go with the .035" clearance but I'll definitely need to shim up the crank snouts with a washer on each side to set the side to side play from .125" down to .050" to prevent the flywheels from hitting the stuffing plates, this will give .010" between the flywheel and the plate if the crank shifts over all the way to one side or the other.
Thanks for the info and I'll look up an ideal case compression ratio to target as well as check my numbers again before ordering the metal. I'll also be mounting the plates like I mentioned before by tapping them and running the bolts thru the case using m4 allen screws. I'll need to use red locktite so they never back out and grind away the excess threads if they protrude thru the plates on the inside, but it should work to hold them in place.
It's late over here so I'll measure everything again for sure before ordering any metal.
I'm thinking more about the case compression ratio I should target for, but since there's a pretty good diference between your clearances and mine, simply copying your numbers won't work, other than getting the clearance between the flywheels and the plates. I'll go with the .035" clearance but I'll definitely need to shim up the crank snouts with a washer on each side to set the side to side play from .125" down to .050" to prevent the flywheels from hitting the stuffing plates, this will give .010" between the flywheel and the plate if the crank shifts over all the way to one side or the other.
Thanks for the info and I'll look up an ideal case compression ratio to target as well as check my numbers again before ordering the metal. I'll also be mounting the plates like I mentioned before by tapping them and running the bolts thru the case using m4 allen screws. I'll need to use red locktite so they never back out and grind away the excess threads if they protrude thru the plates on the inside, but it should work to hold them in place.
I received my KTM Pro pipe today, and I'm, actually glad I got the cheapie pipe as well, as it was a lot easier to make a nice fit due to the S bend sections which were cut and turned, also the Pro pipe looks to be a little 'over kill' in the diameter of it's header and belly. I can see it is a much freer flowing design and has neater welds and joints, however I have cut and tidied all the welds on the cheapie and will stick to it for this project.
The Pro pipe is really deserving of a KTM clone motor...
The Pro pipe is really deserving of a KTM clone motor...
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Cool... I got mine in this morning but hadn't had time to mess with it yet since my engine is still out. this is the one I got off a 2013 KTM 50, http://www.ebay.com/itm/111176119578?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 it's nice and compact, but will need some rearranging to fit in my frame. I may go ahead and pick up one off a 65 and decide which one needs the least rearranging to fit the way I want, and I also got a dent in this one that'll need to be hammered out.
I had to go back a page to see the pic you posted, there's quite a difference in the size of those 2 pipes you got... That pro pipe definitely looks killer tho... i was looking on DAX's page earlier and he has the KTM 50 engines for really cheap... it's really tempting...
I'd shim it to about .10thousandths side play centered.I've been told to leave a reasonable amount of side play in the crank, though 1/8" sounds a lot. Also if your crank slides easily, is good, as the two flywheels must be reasonably true.
I actually bought two pipes of Ebay, the one I have received is a new cheap pipe, the other which should be here in a day or so is a 2nd hand pro pipe.
I bought the cheap pipe as I figured it would be heavier gauge and easier to weld/modify and was not plated and so would paint up better once I was done with it, it also came with a reasonable straight through silencer, and a heat shield for my knee.
I found that the original mounting flange had an awful step in the pipe where it met the hydro formed section, and I'm not sure that I wish to reuse it. The pro pipe maybe better, and appears not to have the 's bend' in the header section, so may fit with less mods, but unlikely as neat a fit as the one I've cut up. I'm likely to make a flange possibly with its own slip joint, as I already have some pieces here that will likely be usable, and I want to get the header to flow as smooth as possible.
That's what I'm aiming for on mine... it has way too much side to side play right now... almost 1/8" as it sits, but I can use some steel washers on each side of the crank and mill them down to give me the right amount of play.
I'm also going to look in the morning to see if I can get some aluminum sheet here locally before I order any online. I'm sure I can get some at the airport if they let me buy what I need and not a whole 4'x8' sheet...
I'm also going to look in the morning to see if I can get some aluminum sheet here locally before I order any online. I'm sure I can get some at the airport if they let me buy what I need and not a whole 4'x8' sheet...
Road signs are where my 1.5mm ally comes from, but I got it from the dump.
I use it for all sorts of stuff.
Probably starting to run a little low on it.
The KTM clones are tempting but postage to OZ is a real killer, near as much as the motor.
I use it for all sorts of stuff.
Probably starting to run a little low on it.
The KTM clones are tempting but postage to OZ is a real killer, near as much as the motor.
Yeah... I got this one scrapyard over here that I go to when I need metal and I can buy new or scrap, they weigh my truck on a scale when I go in then again on the way out and charge me 20 cents per pound of scrap metal, they usually don't even check to see if it's aluminum or steel as long as it's scrap or a small amount like under 100 lb.
I am a litle more picky about the aluminum I use mainly because the good stuff is so much easier to work with, it doesn't stick to drill bits, clog rotary files and cutting wheels etc, and it machines really well. I got some aluminum from Home Depot a few months ago to get used to my lathe and that stuff was aweful trying to machine compared to what I'm used to working with. I really like working with 6061 T6, 2024 T3, and 7075 T6 depending on what I need to do with it.
yeah.. too bad on the shiping costs there because 9hp for $500 in such a small package is really a sweet deal.
I am a litle more picky about the aluminum I use mainly because the good stuff is so much easier to work with, it doesn't stick to drill bits, clog rotary files and cutting wheels etc, and it machines really well. I got some aluminum from Home Depot a few months ago to get used to my lathe and that stuff was aweful trying to machine compared to what I'm used to working with. I really like working with 6061 T6, 2024 T3, and 7075 T6 depending on what I need to do with it.
yeah.. too bad on the shiping costs there because 9hp for $500 in such a small package is really a sweet deal.
