Ashless VS Low ash oils in HT engines

RLorange · #1 11-05-2008, 09:43 PM

I understand there is a difference between "Ashless" and "low ash" 2-stroke oils depending on the type of detergent used.

Does anybody know which type is specified for the HT engines?

Seems to me that with the low RPMs and poor tuning an ashless type would be best for a minimum of deposit build up. Is this correct?

What brands or types of oil are ashless?

I am considering running a mix of racing castor 20% and ashless regular oil 80% any recommendations?

Are Outboard engine type oils ashless? incidently why does it say to not use these oils in other engines?

**Bikeguy Joe** · #2 11-06-2008, 06:45 AM

Outboard run at a most constant, heavier load than other two strokes and are water cooled.

Don't use outboard oil in your China engine....do use any good synthetic or dino oil at 24/1 or 32/1.

Pablo · #3 11-06-2008, 07:01 AM

These engines don't need an ashless oil. They can run pretty hot and are not very "precise".

You can mix castor oil with a variety of oils, but keep the percentage down and use the fuel right away when you mix it. Castor premix, especially if the fuel has any EtOH at all, won't store at all.

Nomad · #4 11-06-2008, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pablo

These engines don't need an ashless oil. They can run pretty hot and are not very "precise".

You can mix castor oil with a variety of oils, but keep the percentage down and use the fuel right away when you mix it. Castor premix, especially if the fuel has any EtOH at all, won't store at all.

Where can I buy castor oil for mixing?....

RLorange · #5 11-07-2008, 01:55 AM

Thanks for the tip

I am currently using a mix of Motul 800 70% and Castrol r30 Castor racing oil. I tested the oil mix together for a reaction but it was fine and mixed with fuel also fine and with no separation after a week. The Castor definitely Keeps the engine cool and the power is high and consistent even after a long ride on a hot day. The build up on the cylinder head is annoying tho I am chipping it off every couple of weeks!! Luckily this residue only seems to build up where there is fire.

I am soon going to try a product called bi-Tron XL2 which is a 2-stroke specific additive and claims to be 100% petroleum oil based which has been treated to make the oil molecules polar so they stick to and penetrate metal. Sound to me like the ultimate solution and maybe a little too good to be true. The YouTube friction test clips sold me everyone should check it out.

Will report on Bi-tron soon but it might make Castor obsolete

Pablo · #6 11-07-2008, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nomad

Where can I buy castor oil for mixing?....

This where I buy mine: Model Airplane Company - Sig Manufacturing

Baker's Grade AA Castor Oil - Sig Manufacturing

**Bikeguy Joe** · #7 11-07-2008, 06:40 PM

That stuff is delish!

ibcnya · #8 11-07-2008, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bikeguy Joe

Don't use outboard oil in your China engine....

I do wish i had known this 3 days ago. Could this be the source of muffler dripping oil, black carbon around tip, and hard to start sometimes, and lots of blue smoke on start up?

jasonh · #9 11-08-2008, 02:51 PM

That sounds like too much oil in the gas, plus too much fuel going into the motor to me. But definitely don't use the outboard stuff.

ibcnya · #10 11-16-2008, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasonh

That sounds like too much oil in the gas, plus too much fuel going into the motor to me. But definitely don't use the outboard stuff.

Checked my needle position in my carb today and it was on the bottom slot, Moved it to the second to top position and throttle isnt boggy now like it was before. Rode about a mile, checked the plug after cool down and can tell its better.