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  #51  
Old 10-01-2012, 01:20 PM
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bairdco bairdco is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2009
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Default Re: Glossary Of Motor Bicycle, bicycle parts and tools

Quote:
Originally Posted by KCvale View Post

2. Discover the crank arms won't just pull off because they are designed with a wedge fit. Beat arms with a hammer and discover they still won't budge. Buy the frigg'n 'Crank Arm Removal Tool' and ***** about it.
an easy way to get crank arms off without buying a tool or beating them with a hammer is this:

take the bolts off both sides, then pedal the bike to the store (or around the block.) 9 times outta 10 they'll loosen up and come off.
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  #52  
Old 10-01-2012, 01:24 PM
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bairdco bairdco is offline
a guy who makes cool bikes
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: living the dream in southern california
Posts: 6,249
Default Re: Glossary Of Motor Bicycle, bicycle parts and tools

i don't remember where i found this, but it's pretty funny. ya might have to enlarge it to read it all:
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  #53  
Old 10-01-2012, 02:48 PM
KCvale KCvale is offline
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Default Re: Glossary Of Motor Bicycle, bicycle parts and tools

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Originally Posted by Bill in Oregon View Post
Here's another term that puzzles me: "white wire" referring to wiring electrical systems on bikes.
Here is the magneto in a nutshell.



The top magneto wire (blue) is what connects to you Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) module with the spark plug wire.

The bottom magneto wire (white) is just an auxiliary winding output.
The voltage varies by motor RPM but you can only pull about 750mA from it or the motor will die at idle.
That is enough for a couple of little 3V incandescent flashlight bulbs.

Please note that all your kill all button does is create a short circuit.

By connecting the kill button to the Aux white wire it causes such a magnetic draw from the spinning motor magnet it stalls and dies at idle, the same thing will happen trying to draw too much power from it for lights.

The manual says to wire the kill button to ground and the white wire, it don't matter which color wire from the switch, it is just a switch.

Personally I cut that bottom white wire off right at the magneto as I use kick butt Lithium Powered CREE lights and don't want anything drawing any of my precious motor power for anything but moving me, and just tie my kill button to the CDI wires, that doesn't just rely on motor drag to kill the motor, it shorts out the spark circuit as well.

Don't EVER think you can draw 'free power' from the white wire or even one of those secondary mags or even hub rubbing or internal hub gens they have, they are a drag on the motor and in short make your motor perform like you are always riding up hill. The more you draw, the steeper the hill.

* One exception to that is those internal hub magnetos that engage to act as a brake for storing all the kinetic energy you created with the bikes mass and velocity by charging a battery when you WANT a lot of drag to stop.

One other note is I actually cut off all the motors Mag wires and run a double insulated 16g wire pair directly soldered to to mag up to the CDI on all my builds, hence one other ascetic aspect as well as a slight performance enhancement, at least every mA the blue wire main winding power gets to the mag, which of course makes for a bit better spark, especially with an Iridium spark plug ;-}
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