So let me get this straight.

[Finfan]

I'm sitting here with a new bicycle and an engine kit. The bike has a coaster brake. I apparently have the option of either enlarging the hole in the sprocket or finding a bench grinder and modifying the dust cap. Am I correct on that? So, if I get one or the other done how do I get the sprocket on over the coaster arm? My largest hammer is 3 lbs but I do have an 8 lb chopping maul that I could use as a sledge. Any advice on how to approach this would be appreciated! There seems to be very little information posted on exactly how to fit the sprocket to the wheel. Please use small words and pictures!

[deacon]

You have to remove the BRAKE ARM in order to fit the sprocket on the wheel. Just a nut holds it on. No big deal but then you have to put a bend in the ARM so it clears the bolt heads of the sprocket. There is a picture of that somewhere here. Someone probably knows where it is I don't right off hand. After the sprocket is on just reverse the steps and you have it.

[mgladden2]

Dig around on the spookytoothcycles.com website for the tutorials. You remove the coaster brake arm, mount the sprocket, then bend the coaster brake arm so it clears the bolt heads. I just took the arm and put a socket-set extension piece under it so it was lifted at an angle, then banged on it with a hammer until I had the right amount of bend. Took about 5 minutes. Mounting the sprocket on the wheel is harder because you need it to be very, very centered and evenly tightened to avoid it from wobbling at high speeds (makes the whole bike vibrate back and forth and you don't go as fast).

Good luck!

MG

[Bikeguy Joe]

No hammer needed.

[Biker Mike]

Try this...


http://motorbicycling.com/f30/coaste...rake#post31652

[Dave31]

Some brake arms need to be bent...some don't.

On my last wheel I had to bend the arm...on my new wheel that I just got a few weeks ago I did not.

I shaved a little off the mounting bolts on the sprocket to help clear the brake arm just to avoid buying more bolts.

Some use flat head bolts, and some counter sink the bolts into the sprocket.

Trimming the dust cover is a lot easier and faster then enlarging your sprocket center. The link in the previous thread will show you what need to be done.





If some pics of my set-up will help...just let me know, I will be more then happy to post them. And if you really need help, we can make arrangements and I could stop by and give you a hand.

[Dave31]

Here are some more links on the subject

http://motorbicycling.com/f3/help-sc...edal-2566.html

http://motorbicycling.com/f6/enlarge...nter-1309.html

http://motorbicycling.com/f3/sprocke...iser-3199.html

http://motorbicycling.com/f3/brake-jam-1593.html

http://motorbicycling.com/f3/need-he...akes-1149.html

http://motorbicycling.com/f6/attachi...ocket-591.html

Well, thier are plenty more threads about it but this should be enough

[Finfan]

Thanks all! I did find the Spooky tooth page and I would like to inform FR31 that his dust cover mod can be accomplished with a vise, dremel, and file. However it doesn't really matter now because I decided to try out my new torque wrench and seal the head gasket. One of the head bolts stripped (inside the lower end) at 9 ft/lbs. I'm shut down for now.

[Finfan]

Having studied the matter further and read the thread about the stripped intake bolt I am going to try the JB weld fix using some new threaded stock unless somebody has a better idea. The JB weld that I have is in the Red and Black tubes. Is there a different type that would work better? I will overcome this! Onward through the fog!

[Bikeguy Joe]

Did you strip a head stud, the nut for it, an intake stud, or the nut for IT?
Or did ytou strip out the case or cylinder?
I'm confused.