i used 1/4 inch plate and off centered 1/2 inch...u bolts will work fine but i used the easy way and went through the frame almost everyone on this forum will tell you not to do it that way but its a nice clean look and it is a steel frame done it to a few bikes never had a problem
Thanks thats what I was planning on. and some washers in between the sprocket and hub mounting flange.
Running wider tires, and wider rear rim really makes things difficult on the Cranbrooks, just wanna start pulling my hair out!!!!! Going to bend or cut off and re-angle the coaster brake arm, so it does not hit my sprocket, and allow me a bit more room to offset my sprocket hub assembly. So Tat my 415Chain will not rub my Thick Brick Tires.
also going to thread on an extra nut against the nut on the axle on the inside of the drop outs to widen out the frame a tad, giving more chain clearance if needed.
So Today I decided to bend my brake arm, so I can offset the rear sprocket some more so the 2 won't rub, and also fabricated two new Front Engine mount that offsets the Engine a 1/2", Thanks Glennbo!! One uses a UBolt and has a bend in the plate, the other is flat. I decided to use the one with the bend because it allows me to drop the front of the engine and be able to set the carb up level. Next is to fab up a rear mount, then cut the flange off my expansion chamber so I can rotate it a bit so the left peddle wont hit it. Here are some pics of the bent coaster brake arm, and the two Front Engine Mounts.
Today I was able to get my Engine mounted in the right spot with my offset front mount and rear mount, gave me plenty of room to install my new air filter, and I also cut and rotated my expansion chamber to clear the peddle from hitting it. Now just need to install the clutch, kill switch, chain, and clean up the cables routing, then test it all out : )
In this pic the rear studs will be replace with bolts. Studs are just there for mock up.