Originally Posted by rustycase
Gosh I hate rag joints! LOL
I watched that video using tape to center the sprocket, then saw where someone mentioned using zip ties as shims...
Had a major battle getting the warble out of the sprocket and the chain kept binding. ...even filed the sprocket teeth a bit to encourage the chain to follow the proper track.
It did not want to.
Took two links out of the chain, re-positioned the tensioner, and got it adjusted to the proper level of looseness and it's doing well enough now.
I'll definitely be doing business with one of the aftermarket hub adapter builders soon as I get the extra cash.
I haven't tried one of the aftermarket hub sprocket mounts yet but they sure look faster and easier to install as well as more stable provided you have a good hub.
It is just tough to justify half the cost of the whole motor kit just for a rear sprocket.
For a rag sprocket install an electric and hand held nut driver along with a deep and regular 10mm socket are your friends.
I find that initially aligning the sprocket is just a waste of time, it is all in how you install the bolts and tighten them if the sprocket doesn't just fit perfect on the hub (yes, some bikes do!).
Just in brief...
1. Lay your sprocket on a flat surface with the shinny side up and push on opposite sides all the way around to check for warp.
You can't adjust a warp out of a sprocket.
2. For the Grubee rag, use the two piece 4/5 hole plates, not the three 3 hole plates for the inside.
3. You can use a thin Philleps screw driver to align the holes, and then put in the the 1st four bolts into the ends of the two back plate pieces.
I use a 10mm socket on the end of my drill to run the bolts through.
Once I get a bolt through enough to fit the inside washers and nut on I finger hold the nut on while I drive the bolt until my fingers give.
4. Move around the circle in a star pattern like you would use when tightening lug nuts on a car after a tire change.
5. Once all the bolts are in and finger snug you can align the sprocket.
If you can visually see it is not centered I find just standing the wheel up with the high side of the sprocket up and putting a little chunk of bike chain like 5 links in the teeth and just tapping it down with a tack hammer makes nice little adjustments.
NOTE.. look at the bolts! are they straight? Move things around so the bolts come through true and not trying to angle around spokes of something.
6. The tricky part is tightening it up without loosing alignment.
I still use the drill on the outside but use a 10mm hand held nut driver on the inside and run around the wheel in a star pattern a couple of times making tiny alignment with the hammer and chain until it is very snug with the drill and nut driver.
7. The sprocket should be true vertical so now you check horizontal wobble.
Just tighten the bolt(s) on the sprocket where the part of sprocket on the outside is not in as far as the rest.
Again, you can not adjust a warped sprocket straight, check it first!
Hope that helps.