need help please

[rimotorbiker1976]

bought bike at yard sale for good price last week, finally got to look at it today, ok so i spent about an hour and a half getting tensioner all set and trying to get it run,no success at the running part tensioner seems to be tracking great and no problems pedaling it in neutral,but as for running, nothing i pulled the plug and its clean and stinks of fuel not soaked, i noticed the wire isnt a tight fit on the plug,i put my spark tester on and didnt see any spark at all seems like it has great compresson as it stops the bike within 10 -20 feet after letting clutch out after getting up to a good speed,the wiring i found is (white,blue and black out of the engine) (blue and black out of cdi) (yellow and black out of kill switch) he had it hooked up like this (blue out of cdi to blue out of engine) (black out of cdi to black out of engine) (yellow out of kill switch to white out of engine) and it looks like the black out of kill switch was grounded under brake lever.is this right is their any test procedures for the cdi, magneto or kill switch i could try? guy said it never ran never tried to run.

[Nougat]

Disconnect the kill switch for starters, and make sure the white wire isn't grounding to anything.

[rimotorbiker1976]

thank you,ill try that first thing tommorow, had to walk away today kind of frustrating

[Nougat]

Also make sure the blue and black wire connections are good. The quick connectors on those are not terribly reliable.

If it's still the stock plug (no brand name on it) consider replacing it with an NGK B6HS.

If you're still not getting spark after that, it's going to be the magneto or the CDI, in that order of probability.

[Derks420]

I agree, Bypass the kill switch and test it.

But your set up is correct, It does not matter which wires you use from the kill switch, as long as one goes to the white engine wire and the other to ground.

[bandit143728]

Nougat is correct dump the fctory connectors and solder and shrink wrap the connections, also try disconnecting the kill switch they are notorious for going bad.

also check Norms section on how to use an ohm meter to check the mag and cdi, I have one skyhawk that is giving me fits and have a pile of questionable mags and cdi boxes
.

also check the small wire that is supposed to be soldered to the mag frame they are also prone to comming loose, also check that the magnet is installed correctly the keyway should lean toward the rear engine drive gear

hop this helps

[rimotorbiker1976]

thanks for all the tips, ill let you know what i come up with

[rimotorbiker1976]

IT RUNS!!! thanks everyone it runs,thank you NOUGAT i cut the quick connectors off and hooked them up started pedaling and she fired right up i disconnected the kill switch also but i believe the culprit was those connectors.she runs strong ive been taking it easy like only 1/4 throttle and it has to be going at least 15 mph easy,Now my problem is it wont idle i have to keep the idle slightly cracked and she'll run forever,i need to adjust but i only have two hands one for the clutch and one for the throttle so im gonna have to adjust while its off,now is it counterclockwise to increase idle speed or is it clockwise? thank you so much again

[Kevlarr]

Clockwise increases idle.

[Nougat]

The way the idle screw works is very simple. The inside end is pointed, and it blocks the throttle slide from going all the way down. Screwing the idle screw in makes the throttle slide hit a wider part of the tapered end, and thereby the throttle slide return position is higher.

This allows more air to be drawn through the carb, which also draws a commensurate amount of fuel, and you have a higher idle.

I dealt with those connectors by crimping them together with pliers and applying shrink tube. Never had a problem.