As the bike's rear suport is a V and not in line with the wheel. mounting the tensioner on it will cause the rotation of the tensioner's wheel at an angle to the wheel. I cut the mount a third in on both side and give it a twist so the axle of the tensioner's wheel is the same as the wheel. Then bring it to my local body shop and pay the guy 5$ to have it weld back strong. I have him weld the bolts on inside bracket too so now if I need to reposition the tensioner, I need only one wrench. I also weld a washer where the tensioner's axle go through so it cannot slide down. It really improve the vibration I get from the chain.
align the tensioner's axle
- Thread starter jawbreaker
- Start date
The same result can be had with a pipe wrench and a vise. The metal is pretty soft, just give it a twist.
Like Joe said; there's no need to cut and weld the bracket. It can be twisted easily in a bench vice and big Crescent wrench. The other thing to keep in mind is securing the bracket to the frame so it can not loosen and rotate into the spokes. Many before you have learned the hard way that no matter how tight you wrench on the tensioner bolts it can still work loose and cause you big, expensive and sometimes dangerous problems.
Read the threads on tensioner brackets. There's lots of good ideas and information about them here. Use Google search, key word, 'tensioner'
Tom
Read the threads on tensioner brackets. There's lots of good ideas and information about them here. Use Google search, key word, 'tensioner'
Tom
Here is a pretty good read get the ol imaginative juices going chears.
http://motorbicycling.com/f11/chain-tensioner-suggestions-11815.html
http://motorbicycling.com/f11/chain-tensioner-suggestions-11815.html
The chain tensioner that comes with these kits are for the most part bogus. Just shorten the chain! Or is that to logical?
Unfortunately Tim on some bikes you have no option but to run the tensioner. I have one tensioer that is the non-bearing type and has well over 10,000 miles on it. When the tensioner is installed correctly it can last for ever and give you no problems.
I have yet to have a problem with a tensioner wearing out or falling off, even the non-bearing type.
You guys do know that nylon is a great bearing surface. Just run it for a few miles to loosen it up, then use some light oil and even the one's without a "bearing" will last.
You guys do know that nylon is a great bearing surface. Just run it for a few miles to loosen it up, then use some light oil and even the one's without a "bearing" will last.
I try my best not to use tensioners, but first thing you need is a tensioner to stretch the chain so you don't need a tensioner. But like Joe, Tom, Fair and Corgi said, ya can make em work. I bend em in to place, in place. After synching em down, I bend em with a wrench rite on the chain stay. And/or beat em with a small sledge. But I have issues. snork
